xbiker321

I am installing a DNX-9140 in my friends Scion TC (He is deployed in Iraq and will be back at the end of Nov.)

I am also installing that SQ10 custom box from element designs (Sub)

I would like to know what speakers to use to replace the stock ones... unfortunately I will only have 1 amp (hooked up to the Sub) So the speakers will just get power from the DNX-9140.

Also what amp should I get for the SQ10 sub? http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=465

xbiker321

From what I am reading if I buy these speaker adapters for the front and rear I can fit 6 1/2 speakers all around...is this true?

http://cgi.ebay.com/6-Speaker-Adapte...item4a9a01118b


Also I was thinking of the Infinity Kappa 63.9i speakers, is this a good option?

nodsetse

If you're using the 4 Ohm SQ10 and want to get an amp from eD, the Nine.4 would be best, as their two other amps have much more power than that sub needs. With 2 channels bridged you'd have 150w for the sub, which is close enough to it's limits that more power wouldn't make much difference, if any. This would leave you with 2 more channels to power the front speakers, and the amp has a built-in crossover so both the sub and front speakers will only get the frequency ranges they're optimized for.

What's the goal for the upgrade, just louder & clearer? Or something more like the imaging you get from a home stereo when sitting in the sweet spot?

There's really no need to spend anything upgrading the rear speakers, and they'd be fine running off the new HU's power. The stock front speakers will sound MUCH better when running off a real amp with an 80Hz hi-pass filter, so much that I suggest trying that before upgrading them. If you do swap them out, selecting a speaker is very much up to an individual's opinion, it's best to listen to several different sets in your price range and decide for yourself. Since you're not the owner, maybe it'd be best to let him audition some himself once he returns. I'm sure he'd be really pleased with the sound from your adding the sub and having an amp pushing the front speakers, it'd be a night & day difference, comparing to stock.

Edit: Regarding those Kappa 63.9i you're considering, I vote no. That type of triaxial design generally sux, even compared to most coax. You should be able to find a component set in the same price range, which would offer better SQ and fit the stock speaker location (tweeter higher in the door), if that's where you intend to mount them.

xbiker321

louder and clearer pretty much. We have to use the SQ10 box because he needs all the trunk room. Being in the Army requires you to bring a lot of gear around.

I've never installed components before but I'm sure I can youtube how to, lol. So if I get the SQ10, Nine.4, a pair of nice components (any recommendations?) and leave the stock rear speakers hooked up to the headunit I'll be good? Use the Nine.4 to power the sub and two front components?

How about a pair of Polk Audio MM6501's for the front (hooked up to the Nine.4 amp), stock back speakers (hooked up to the headunit), and the Elemental Designs SQ10 (hooked up to the Nine.4 amp)?? If that works could you give me a quick run down of how to hook the speakers and sub up to the amp and to the HU?

yeldak

Don't buy those... they suck, I've owned them. Get the ones from ED instead.

nodsetse

Yes, that'd be a fine upgrade.

Install is fairly simple, some of it will be self-explanatory once you get the equipment and instructions that come with them;

Install new HU, run speaker wire from rear speaker outputs to stock rear speakers.

Run RCA cables (use a "twisted-pair" type) from the HU to the amp. 2 options here, a) you can just use one cable, from the HUs front preamp outputs, or b) 2 cables, one from the front outputs and the other from the sub outputs.

Two amp channels in bridged mode with the low-pass filter set ~80Hz will be connected to the sub.

The remaining 2 channels use the high-pass filter at the same frequency, run speaker wire to the front kick panels where you can mount the passive crossovers that come with the component set. From the passive crossover you run separate wires for the woofer and tweeter into the door.

Then you'll need to set the gain controls on the amp, and there are a few ways of doing that, so search the web to find the method that'll work best for you. This final step is really important, as it'll ensure you get all the output the amp is capable of, without objectionable distortion or damaging the speakers.

xbiker321

Thank you nodsetse for your help. I have one more question, could you recommend good speaker wire that I can use, and will fit through the door wire boot thing for the front components and then wire from the crossover to the amp? And how much wire do you think I'll need, 20ft? 40ft? Gauge?

Also I've been thinking, would putting two aftermarket coaxial speakers in the back be better than just leaving the stock ones in? Or will it not matter?

nodsetse

^ Glad to assist, and hope the install goes well for you.

Since you asked about speaker wire, I have to ask if you've already got the power wiring & fuse for the amp, along with the RCA cables? If not, it's often more cost effective to buy everything in one kit. Here are a couple low-end, low-cost kit options;
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...81#description
That's a Pyle "4-guage" kit with everything you need at just $20. I usually wouldn't suggest it since the power wire isn't really 4awg, looks more like 8awg. However, it'll work fine for a single Nine.4 amp, more than adequate. The detail doesn't list speaker wire, but it's in there, only problem is they say it's 12awg, and while the jacket is that big, the actual wire is 16awg. No matter, because nothing bigger is required for the system you're installing.
http://www.frys.com/product/5890933?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG
This is the equivalent kit, 4 guage from Metra. While I haven't seen this kit in person, I tend to trust Metra more than I do Pyle for this type of product, I'm confident it'd be equal to or better than the Pyle, and would be fine powering the eD 4-ch amp.

Where both of those inexpensive kits really cut cost is in the RCA cables. They use really small wires, little to no shielding (in spite of specs stating otherwise) and no noise-rejecting design. However, they may work fine for some installs, so it's worth trying them when you get a kit that includes them. If there's no noise and the system performs as it should, then there's no reason to spend more. If they turn out to be an issue, then you'd want to upgrade to a decent "twisted-pair" design, like this;
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...ber=263-210#at
That 16ft. P3 cable offers good price/performance, no need to spend more.

On your specific question about speaker cable, requirements vary quite a bit from system to system, just like power wire for the amp(s). In your case, using the 4ch eD amp with an SQ10 and a single component set, it's fairly simple. All you'll need is decent 16awg for all of it. This is true even for the sub, because it's just 150w and will only be 2 or 3 feet long. You'll need about 10 feet on each side to reach the kick panels, then 2 to 3 feet each for the woofer & tweeter. A 50ft. roll would be required, as you'll use some more for the HU to rear speakers. 2 runs of 16awg will feed into the doors fairly easily, as mandos (Chris) from eD was able to get 2x 12awg through there, so you shouldn't have any problem. For a simple budget install like this, use the speaker wire provided if you buy one of those amp install kits, but if you need more or want better quality, just make sure to look for "OFC" (oxygen free copper) when shopping for a 50ft. roll. Here's an example of high-quality at a fair price;
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...ber=100-016#at
Sometimes you can find decent quality on sale too, like this great deal;
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...ber=109-170#at

You really seem to want to upgrade those rear speakers. Sure, a decent set of coaxes would be fine if that's what you want, it's simply a personal thing and having rear speakers ruins the sound for me. Remember that it's stereo, not surround. When listening to a home stereo, you probably noticed that it sounds best when the speakers are of equal distance from you, that you start to lose the stereo effect when you get closer to one speaker and further from the other. This is already a problem in the car with speakers in the front door panels (close to one but far off axis, far from the other yet much more on axis), but did you ever notice how close the left rear speaker is to the driver's ear? The way I sit, that speaker is even closer to my ear than the door speaker. This is important because humans are very good about determining the origin of a sound source, based on arrival times. What this means is that the sound from the rear speaker may reach your ear before the front speaker, which leads the mind to think the source of sound is behind you. While some people suggest just using the fader and balance to adjust it, that doesn't work because you can't trade time for amplitude. So, if you must have rear speakers and won't be playing them loud compared to the front, then it doesn't make much sense to spend the time, effort & cost to upgrade them. Some people do it anyway because it makes them happy for some reason, and that's ok, you'll just have to decide this for yourself. I don't run any rear speakers, yet it still sounds like there are some, due to reflections within the small space.