noobie Alarm install question
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18
noobie Alarm install question
Putting in a remote start paging alarm system and have a question. The car starts for a second then dies and I suspect the tach wire. My question is the diagram says connect the tach to the negative side of the coil. where is that, wire color , has anyone had to do this? I checked out diagrams on this site and others and im confused.
Alarm noobie
Alarm noobie
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 105
From: Los Angeles, CA
if u have the right wire.... a wiring diagram will tell wat color exactly it is. but... if the car dies.. maybe is a starter voltage. too low. maybe runnin at .8 volts. turn it up one more 1.8. if u have like a bitwriter would be awsome. but.. i'll go to work and check the wire diagram for the tC. i work at Circuit City as an audio installer. and i havea tC with no alarm :o(... i need money for a nice DEI two-way remote start alarm .... so yeah.. i'll get back to u tomorrow...... i have access there.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 105
From: Los Angeles, CA
Originally Posted by aznJ
Tach- Black wire found on the data link connector plug under the dash, pin 5
I work at circuit city as an installer too... holler
I work at circuit city as an installer too... holler
heheh.... i just got in..... anzJ is correct black wire @ data link connector... ummmmm dammit.. i need to find my digi cam to take pics of this..... aznJ wat store # or where is ur location at ? ? hehe.... my ibm is 132890 u must see me on the RPM top 30 for last month and the month b4... .hehe...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18
the tach wire in the data connector puts out ac the alarm says to connect it to the neg side of the coil. I got the wiring diagram of they ignition system from scion and connected it to the neg side of the coil. the last thing is the doors I have to wire 2 relays for that because of reverse polarity on the door trigers. But I still have no start I hope its only because I need to program they alarm crank time, manual transmission, rpm learning, etc. The alarm is a FAI-8100 the diagrams are here
http://www.alarmsellout.com/f-8100-diagram-2.htm
This thing is as confusing as hell to me my question is this do the doors need to be wired for the alarm to enter programing mode because I would hate to wire up 3 more relays only to find out the starter still dosent work.
up until this point all the wiring is correct for the 2 starters, 2 ignitions, acc, parking lights, bypass to factory security (imob). the handbrake wire is wired to the brake wire in the car not sure if it should be right to the handbrake or if this is ok its connected to the blue wire at the brake switch. The cluch switch bypass is in.I do not know the way to wire up the door trigers. The locks I think need 2 relays wired for reverse polarity to the drivers master unlock but the lock triggers start on diodes and im lost, can I just use the dome?
No retail chain will touch this where I live because of liability and the only small shop i found likes to talk more than work so I am left with they install please any help would be appriciated. thanks in advance
http://www.alarmsellout.com/f-8100-diagram-2.htm
This thing is as confusing as hell to me my question is this do the doors need to be wired for the alarm to enter programing mode because I would hate to wire up 3 more relays only to find out the starter still dosent work.
up until this point all the wiring is correct for the 2 starters, 2 ignitions, acc, parking lights, bypass to factory security (imob). the handbrake wire is wired to the brake wire in the car not sure if it should be right to the handbrake or if this is ok its connected to the blue wire at the brake switch. The cluch switch bypass is in.I do not know the way to wire up the door trigers. The locks I think need 2 relays wired for reverse polarity to the drivers master unlock but the lock triggers start on diodes and im lost, can I just use the dome?
No retail chain will touch this where I live because of liability and the only small shop i found likes to talk more than work so I am left with they install please any help would be appriciated. thanks in advance
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 105
From: Los Angeles, CA
Remote Start / Security / GPS
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Wire/Function Colour Location/Description Polarity Pic/Graphic
12 VOLTS
These wires are the POWER SOURCE at the ignition that supplies 12-VOLT power for the key switch. In an alarm or remote start installation, this is where you would normally connect your 12-Volt constant power wires. You should always fuse these connections with the manufacturer’s recommended fuse size. Some vehicles contain more than one 12-Volt source at the ignition switch. In such cases, if your Remote Starter is equipped with 2 (12-Volt) input wires, you should connect one to each wire in order to power the remote starter properly and avoid burning the vehicle’s fuse.
Red Ignition switch harness +
IGNITION
The characteristics of the IGNITION WIRE are: 12-Volts during Accessory, Ignition and Crank. It is mandatory in every Remote Start installation. It should never be used for an ignition disable system that is intended for use as a starter cutoff.
Blue Ignition switch harness +
IGNITION 2
The characteristics of the IGNITION 2 WIRE are usually but not always: 12-Volts during Accessory, Ignition and Crank. In many vehicles, this wire goes "hot" just before accessory. In most cases, you may use the same timing as Accessory and not worry about powering the wire before accessory. In many vehicles, failure to connect this wire during Remote Start, will result in Transmission or Air Bag failure. NEVER use a jumper to connect this wire. See our 2nd ignition relay diagram If there is a 2nd /3rd Ignition wire, they MUST ALWAYS BE CONNECTED FOR A REMOTE START INSTALLATION.
Yellow Ignition switch harness +
ACCESSORY
The ACCESSORY wire is what you need to connect to in order to power your vehicle’s HEATER and AC during Remote Start. This wire is: 12-Volts during Accessory and ignition. IT IS NOT 12-VOLTS DURING CRANK. THIS WIRE SHOULD ALWAYS BE POWERED BEFORE IGNITION.
Gray Ignition switch harness +
STARTER
The STARTER WIRE is 12-Volts during crank only AND MUST BE CONNECTED FOR REMOTE START operation. It is also the wire you would use for STARTER CUT for and alarm or starter disable installation. Some vehicles are equipped with a 2nd START WIRE that serves as an input wire for the temperature sense wire during start.
Black Ignition switch harness +
STARTER 2
The STARTER 2 WIRE is 12-Volts during crank only AND MUST BE CONNECTED FOR REMOTE START operation. IT IS SOMETIMES USED AS AN INPUT WIRE FOR THE TEMPERATURE SENSE WIRE DURING START AND MUST ALWAYS BE CONNECTED FOR REMOTE START INSTALLATIONS. DO NOT USE IT FOR STARTER DISABLE
Green Ignition switch harness +
TACH SIGNAL
Black At diagnostic plug under dash AC
LOCK
The LOCK WIRE is what you would normally tap on to in order to lock the vehicle’s doors during a keyless entry installation. Some vehicles also use the lock wire to lock the hatch or trunk. This is common in central locking systems. There are many different configurations for this wire. We list them all, and if there is anything abnormal about this wire, it will be listed in the vehicle’s notes. Some vehicles list the actual motor lock/unlock wires as well as these. The motor lock wires are generally reverse polarity and usually need relays connected. To view the description of those wires, slide your mouse over them
Green On 20-pin plug in driver's kickpanel -
UNLOCK
The UNLOCK WIRE is what you would normally tap on to in order to unlock the vehicle’s doors during a keyless entry installation. Some vehicles also use the unlock wire to unlock the hatch or trunk. This is common in central locking systems. There are many different configurations for this wire. We list them all, and if there is anything abnormal about this wire, it will be listed in the vehicle’s notes. Some vehicles list the actual motor lock/unlock wires as well as these. The motor lock wires are generally reverse polarity and usually need relays connected. To view the description of those wires, slide your mouse over them.
Violet On 20-pin plug in driver's kickpanel -
DOORPIN
The DOORPIN WIRE usually has a signal that indicates the status of the vehicles doors. It may also be used as a trigger to turn on the vehicle’s Domelight. Some vehicles use other wires to establish the door status. DOORPIN wires are usually positive or negative depending on the manufacturer and model. Some show negative and others show positive when the door is open. Some vehicles have a different wire for each door.
SEE NOTES*
*DRIVER'S door is ORANGE and passenger door is BLUE. Both wires are found on the left side of the fusebox.
TRUNK PIN
The TRUNK PIN wire is used to indicate trunk status of the vehicle. It can be either positive or negative depending on the manufacturer and model. You may generally use this wire for an aftermarket Security System, but may in some cases require the use of a diode in series with the Security System’s trunk trigger wire.
Purple On top of fusepanel -
TRUNK RELEASE
TRUNK RELEASE refers to a wire that triggers the opening of the vehicle’s trunk or hatch. There are many different configurations for this type of connection including positive trigger, negative trigger, high current negative trigger and reverse polarity. All possible configurations are shown in the trunk release diagram. This wire only appears on vehicle’s that may be equipped with power trunk or hatch release.
Orange On 12-pin plug in driver's kickpanel -
FACTORY ARM
The FACTORY ARM wire is used to arm/re-arm built in factory security. It can be any number of configurations and in many cases must be used in conjunction with the DOOR LOCK wire to arm factory security. It’s use is generally documented if requires anything other than simply applying 12-volts or ground.
Arms with lock wire
FACTORY DISARM
The FACTORY DISARM wire is used to disarm built in factory security. It can be any number of configurations and in some cases must be used in conjunction with the DOOR UNLOCK wire to disarm factory security. It’s use is generally documented if requires anything other than simply applying 12-volts or ground.
Disarms with unlock
BRAKESWITCH
The BRAKESWITCH WIRE is always referred to as the wire that becomes 12-VOLTS once the brake pedal is pressed. In some rare cases it may produce a negative signal when triggered. It is usually used to shutdown an aftermarket Remote Starter. Failure to connect this wire in a Remote Starter installation can be extremely dangerous.
Blue At switch above brake pedal +
PARKLIGHTS
The PARKLIGHTS WIRE is connected to the vehicles parklights and can be either a negative or positive depending on the manufacturer and model of the vehicle. Most REMOTE STARTS, SECURITY SYSTEMS AND KEYLESS ENTRIES need to be interfaced to this wire. In some vehicles it may be necessary to connect to more than one wire to get the desired results. This is indicated where required.
Brown On top of fusepanel +
HAND BRAKE
The HANDBRAKE WIRE is generally referred to as the EMERGENCY BRAKE in an automatic transmission vehicle and the HANDBRAKE in a manual transmission equipped vehicle. It is required in almost all Remote Start installations on manual transmission vehicles. It is generally not used for most other aftermarket products.
Black At switch on handbrake lever -
HORN
The HORN WIRE is usually used for Remote Start, Security System and Keyless Entry systems as an indication of: Alarm Arm/Disarm, Panic Function, Vehicle Locate, Alarm Trigger, Lock/Unlock, Remote Start running…etc. It is usually, but not always a negative signal.
White At steering column -
VSS WIRE
The VSS WIRE is the vehicle’s SPEED SENSE WIRE. It is tied in to the vehicle’s computer and is used to tell the vehicle what speed it is traveling at. It is an AC signal and is gauged in "Pulses per mile". The most common use in the aftermarket is for connection to GPS Tracking/Navigation System or Cruise Control. It is rarely required for anything else
Violet At ECM (behind glove box) AC
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Wire/Function Colour Location/Description Polarity Pic/Graphic
12 VOLTS
These wires are the POWER SOURCE at the ignition that supplies 12-VOLT power for the key switch. In an alarm or remote start installation, this is where you would normally connect your 12-Volt constant power wires. You should always fuse these connections with the manufacturer’s recommended fuse size. Some vehicles contain more than one 12-Volt source at the ignition switch. In such cases, if your Remote Starter is equipped with 2 (12-Volt) input wires, you should connect one to each wire in order to power the remote starter properly and avoid burning the vehicle’s fuse.
Red Ignition switch harness +
IGNITION
The characteristics of the IGNITION WIRE are: 12-Volts during Accessory, Ignition and Crank. It is mandatory in every Remote Start installation. It should never be used for an ignition disable system that is intended for use as a starter cutoff.
Blue Ignition switch harness +
IGNITION 2
The characteristics of the IGNITION 2 WIRE are usually but not always: 12-Volts during Accessory, Ignition and Crank. In many vehicles, this wire goes "hot" just before accessory. In most cases, you may use the same timing as Accessory and not worry about powering the wire before accessory. In many vehicles, failure to connect this wire during Remote Start, will result in Transmission or Air Bag failure. NEVER use a jumper to connect this wire. See our 2nd ignition relay diagram If there is a 2nd /3rd Ignition wire, they MUST ALWAYS BE CONNECTED FOR A REMOTE START INSTALLATION.
Yellow Ignition switch harness +
ACCESSORY
The ACCESSORY wire is what you need to connect to in order to power your vehicle’s HEATER and AC during Remote Start. This wire is: 12-Volts during Accessory and ignition. IT IS NOT 12-VOLTS DURING CRANK. THIS WIRE SHOULD ALWAYS BE POWERED BEFORE IGNITION.
Gray Ignition switch harness +
STARTER
The STARTER WIRE is 12-Volts during crank only AND MUST BE CONNECTED FOR REMOTE START operation. It is also the wire you would use for STARTER CUT for and alarm or starter disable installation. Some vehicles are equipped with a 2nd START WIRE that serves as an input wire for the temperature sense wire during start.
Black Ignition switch harness +
STARTER 2
The STARTER 2 WIRE is 12-Volts during crank only AND MUST BE CONNECTED FOR REMOTE START operation. IT IS SOMETIMES USED AS AN INPUT WIRE FOR THE TEMPERATURE SENSE WIRE DURING START AND MUST ALWAYS BE CONNECTED FOR REMOTE START INSTALLATIONS. DO NOT USE IT FOR STARTER DISABLE
Green Ignition switch harness +
TACH SIGNAL
Black At diagnostic plug under dash AC
LOCK
The LOCK WIRE is what you would normally tap on to in order to lock the vehicle’s doors during a keyless entry installation. Some vehicles also use the lock wire to lock the hatch or trunk. This is common in central locking systems. There are many different configurations for this wire. We list them all, and if there is anything abnormal about this wire, it will be listed in the vehicle’s notes. Some vehicles list the actual motor lock/unlock wires as well as these. The motor lock wires are generally reverse polarity and usually need relays connected. To view the description of those wires, slide your mouse over them
Green On 20-pin plug in driver's kickpanel -
UNLOCK
The UNLOCK WIRE is what you would normally tap on to in order to unlock the vehicle’s doors during a keyless entry installation. Some vehicles also use the unlock wire to unlock the hatch or trunk. This is common in central locking systems. There are many different configurations for this wire. We list them all, and if there is anything abnormal about this wire, it will be listed in the vehicle’s notes. Some vehicles list the actual motor lock/unlock wires as well as these. The motor lock wires are generally reverse polarity and usually need relays connected. To view the description of those wires, slide your mouse over them.
Violet On 20-pin plug in driver's kickpanel -
DOORPIN
The DOORPIN WIRE usually has a signal that indicates the status of the vehicles doors. It may also be used as a trigger to turn on the vehicle’s Domelight. Some vehicles use other wires to establish the door status. DOORPIN wires are usually positive or negative depending on the manufacturer and model. Some show negative and others show positive when the door is open. Some vehicles have a different wire for each door.
SEE NOTES*
*DRIVER'S door is ORANGE and passenger door is BLUE. Both wires are found on the left side of the fusebox.
TRUNK PIN
The TRUNK PIN wire is used to indicate trunk status of the vehicle. It can be either positive or negative depending on the manufacturer and model. You may generally use this wire for an aftermarket Security System, but may in some cases require the use of a diode in series with the Security System’s trunk trigger wire.
Purple On top of fusepanel -
TRUNK RELEASE
TRUNK RELEASE refers to a wire that triggers the opening of the vehicle’s trunk or hatch. There are many different configurations for this type of connection including positive trigger, negative trigger, high current negative trigger and reverse polarity. All possible configurations are shown in the trunk release diagram. This wire only appears on vehicle’s that may be equipped with power trunk or hatch release.
Orange On 12-pin plug in driver's kickpanel -
FACTORY ARM
The FACTORY ARM wire is used to arm/re-arm built in factory security. It can be any number of configurations and in many cases must be used in conjunction with the DOOR LOCK wire to arm factory security. It’s use is generally documented if requires anything other than simply applying 12-volts or ground.
Arms with lock wire
FACTORY DISARM
The FACTORY DISARM wire is used to disarm built in factory security. It can be any number of configurations and in some cases must be used in conjunction with the DOOR UNLOCK wire to disarm factory security. It’s use is generally documented if requires anything other than simply applying 12-volts or ground.
Disarms with unlock
BRAKESWITCH
The BRAKESWITCH WIRE is always referred to as the wire that becomes 12-VOLTS once the brake pedal is pressed. In some rare cases it may produce a negative signal when triggered. It is usually used to shutdown an aftermarket Remote Starter. Failure to connect this wire in a Remote Starter installation can be extremely dangerous.
Blue At switch above brake pedal +
PARKLIGHTS
The PARKLIGHTS WIRE is connected to the vehicles parklights and can be either a negative or positive depending on the manufacturer and model of the vehicle. Most REMOTE STARTS, SECURITY SYSTEMS AND KEYLESS ENTRIES need to be interfaced to this wire. In some vehicles it may be necessary to connect to more than one wire to get the desired results. This is indicated where required.
Brown On top of fusepanel +
HAND BRAKE
The HANDBRAKE WIRE is generally referred to as the EMERGENCY BRAKE in an automatic transmission vehicle and the HANDBRAKE in a manual transmission equipped vehicle. It is required in almost all Remote Start installations on manual transmission vehicles. It is generally not used for most other aftermarket products.
Black At switch on handbrake lever -
HORN
The HORN WIRE is usually used for Remote Start, Security System and Keyless Entry systems as an indication of: Alarm Arm/Disarm, Panic Function, Vehicle Locate, Alarm Trigger, Lock/Unlock, Remote Start running…etc. It is usually, but not always a negative signal.
White At steering column -
VSS WIRE
The VSS WIRE is the vehicle’s SPEED SENSE WIRE. It is tied in to the vehicle’s computer and is used to tell the vehicle what speed it is traveling at. It is an AC signal and is gauged in "Pulses per mile". The most common use in the aftermarket is for connection to GPS Tracking/Navigation System or Cruise Control. It is rarely required for anything else
Violet At ECM (behind glove box) AC
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