who is running an active front stage in their tc and what are you using? and if you don't know what i'm talking about then your obviously not. lol

please tell all about it. what speakers, what processing, what kind of power, speaker locations, crossover points/slopes.... the works. post pictures too if you'd like.

just interested to see/hear what others have come up with.

 

will be active very shortly my old Alpine 9857 just died on me today .....all the more reason to get moving on this.

Speakers: All CDT

ES-06+ Midbass
ES-04 Midrange
ES-02 Tweeters

Head Unit: Alpine 9887 w/ IMPRINT

Subs: TBA

Amps:

JL 300/2 - 150x2 to the midbass drivers
JL 450/4 - 150x2 to the midrange drivers, 75x2 to the tweeters
Either a Nine.2x or an SAZ-1500D for the subs...depends what subs I go with.

Midrange and tweeter in custom sealed FG kicks. I'm gonna seal the doors up and toss the midbass drivers in there.

Subs in a custom sealed enclosure in the trunk...I'll probably have the left-hand corner taken by an FG sub box.

Crossover points and slopes TBA

 

:sigh: what is an active front stage?

 

cool, but in a tc?

 

a short explanation: using component speakers, meaning seperate mid and tweeters, but not using the supplied crossovers.

 

ah I see, thanks for the explanation :-)

 

Was running my aura mr6.1's active with a pair of IDMAX's. Now running the xs components active with the new IDQ V3's, well almost, tuning late this week before HIN LA. Doors are almost finished being glassed. Here is a system description and a teaser pic.

Auras were in door braxial style with upper tweet hole sealed. Slopes were 12db/oct @ 63hz, same with the subs. No time alignment was needed on the front stage as I did not want a 1 seat wonder, stage was stellar for stock location. I did require a slight amount of phase adjustment on the subs via the external controller on the A6 to clean the midbass up and bring it up front more. Exact degree of phase was unknown as it was not marked on the controller. Could have done it with the h701, but was quicker with the controller Tuned it by ear with a test disk playing sweeps from 40-80hz.

 

make me one of those diagrams!!!!!!!!!!!

 

They run $30 if you provide the pics.

 

hmmmm.... i'll have to see if i can find some pics.

 

I was using a Clarion DRZ-9255. It's internal xover was set to 31hz @ 18dB/oct for the subwoofer's LP, 40hz@12dB/oct for the mids HP, and 3.15KHz LP. The tweeter's were set to 3.15KHz @ 12dB/oct as well - HP.

I'd have to check my notes as to where the time alignment was set, and what frequencies were cut with the 5 band parametric EQ.

 

thanks! you don't have to go THAT crazy. :-)

i do have one question though... you were running 6.5" mids down to 40hz?

 

Yeah...impressive huh?

 

please explain...

i'm going to take a guess and say you don't need to have things very loud when competing?

i had my current mids playing down to 50hz/24db but i couldn't get them to crazy loud levels and have them still sound perfectly clean.

 

The mids would still get REALLY loud, but I wouldn't suggest attempting this with anything less than the best speakers available. The Seas Lotus Reference are one such speaker, but most of our other favorites are not. I feel that 60hz is a good target xover frequency.

For competing, the volume is set to approximately 110dB, and "limited" to 120dB. This is up to the judge's discretion though (there's no volume meter in his possession).

When I adjusted the xover to 80Hz (HP and LP - mids and subs), for my SPL run, I could nail 140dB without breaking a sweat.

 

isn't 110db, full range pretty damn loud?

i know sub-bass at 110 is nothing, but full range?

 

We're discussing the limitations of the speaker in terms of lower midbass output capability.

For every octave the crossover moves up (doubles in frequency), the speaker's compliance (movement in/out) will be 1/4th as much for a given SPL. Example: 1" at 40hz, .25" at 80hz.

The philosophy of most car audio speaker companies is that the subs will play to ~80hz, so why design a mid that can comfortably play lower? Designing a speaker with a wider band of "good performance" is more expensive.

My advice is to find what's the loudest "normal listening" you expect your system to play, and set your crossovers accordingly...

 

yea i understand all that. i was actually asking if 110db's is really loud full range. i listen to my system pretty loud but i don't know if it's 110db's overall. i'm sure the bass easily gets there but the mids and highs i don't know.

 

110dB is definitely getting loud. ~120dB is where I draw the line.

 

might have to whip out the rat shack meter and see what kinda levels i'm gettin. lol i know they aren't 100% accurate though. hahaha