I have one ten and i want to get more out of it

I was going to deaden part of the back, but i want to know what the minimum amount of material i would need. Do i just kinda listen to know where to put it? what amount should i buy?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/50-Ft-FatMat-Aut...QQcmdZViewItem

get that, and do as much as you can with it....

 

I have about that much in the backas well.........I used edead which was about the same cost.........you willnotice a change in sound with 50 ft.......I did entire inside of car with 100ft........and a few areas got liquid deadening paint in under it and music is much better now......and road noise is much less.......

 

i used edead v1se2 on my doors. it works well. i will do more of the car soon with the same stuff.

 

i would suggest raammat or second skin, good stuff.. have you checked out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

I have 160 sq ft of edead v1 sitting in the living room, waiting for it to stop raining outside.......

But I used Fatmat in a prior install, it was a little thicker than edead for just a little more.

 

I don't mean to "take over" the thread or anything, but realistically, how much time and money would someone need to put into it in order to significantly drown out road noise?? Thanks!

 

To do an entire interior..........floor included

1 gallon of the liquid for the floors then dyno mat over or edead over with V1 or V2
1/2 gallon of liquid in doors,back seat panels,and trunk area.
Cover all that with 120 feet of V2

total costw shipping......$270 roughly.......mine cost $179 shipped and I did not do the floor and was given gallon of edead liquid.........car is a lot quieter inside.......raod noise down and exhaust noise way down

It can be very expensive to do an entire car properly but when done it does make a differance........my mids are extremly clean sounding........and they have soem great bass as well from the door cavity

 

time wise to do in intire interior.......took two of us 8 hours to gut the doors and do them and the back.......trunk and rear panels painted and covered took another 8 hours.......so looking at about 20 hours.

 

has anyone here dynamatt'd or sound deadened their hatch? because i'm hitting up there in the db's and its annoying as ____ that the hatch rattles like a mo fo, especially with the rear cam on

 

Ive used edead(the new and old versions)
fat mat
dynamat
and second skin

second skin is WAYYY better. I have it applied on the front doors and recently took my doors off to install new speakers

Well the second skin is haning on with out a problem. It has lasted me though the 110+ degree Texas heat and the 140 degree it gets inside a car.

I have edead on the rear quarter panels and that stuff was ready to come off.
I had to re-heat it and try my best to reinstall it.

The second skin cost a little more but if you live in an area where the temps can get high ,its worth it

 

my install took me about 3 days

1 to remove interior and clean the surfaces where deadner was to be aplied.

Day 2 was the doors and some of the hatch/trunk
Day 3 was the floor and installing everything back

I did 3 Layers on the floor
1st was second skin, 2 & 3 where edead

Doors 2 layers of second skin all over

rear quater panels 4 layers of edead

trunk was 3 layers of edead

 

Wow, and I though one layer would suffice!
Let me throw this question into the pool for us noobs: is it better to use liquid then a layer of edead on top; or just pile a few layers of edead mats altogether?

 

well im about to edead my car with edead v3 (paint) i have heard the paint stay on better. So i say paint it then edead with the right stuff like if you live in hot area like me (houston) i would use edead UE then v4 teklite

 

I tried both and found that using the paint on then covering seemed to give me a better shell.......the liquid does not need to go on thicker than two layers.......the first goes thin and the second goes thicker........

I have what measures about 120mils on all the panels and it makes a big differance.....there is also 1/2inch piece of V4 behind each speaker in a 1x1' square.

I still need to do the hatch but it is kinda spendy to ship so I may just buy soem dyna mat locally........

 

So i was going to do just under the spear, on each side of the spare, and the on side walls of the hatch area. Does this sound like it will be sufficient enough to stop rattling and most vibration?

 

you should do the hatch itself as well.

 

about how many ft^2 is that u think?

 

Seems to me most of the vibration in my car is in the back and is from the hatchplastic cover,license plate,and tail light for some reason

I padded the plate and that took out almost all of it.....and I put a few little pieces at the mount points of tghe hatch cover plastic and that got rid of that but it can use a lot more...........but my passenger tail light stillhas a buzz rattle........nothing else makes a sound.......so I need to pull off the bumper and put a few pieces behind the light to pad it a bit I guess........

the more you put on the rear floor the more your exhaust will get quiet........I did mine over 3 days for three layers and it got progressivly quieter....

 

hatch inside and under plastic is roughly 25 feet......that is to do a very good job........as you cannot get all the spots inside of it and so you have to jsut skin it under the plastic........