I was replacing the led in my cubby hole. And well, I shorted the wire down there. When I did, all my dash lights went out. Just like when you turn your head lights off. I'm thinking it's a relay. Does anyone on here know what my problem could be? Any help would be great.

Thanks,
Matt

 

fuse.

 

I forgot to mention that I checked all my fuses. I am almost sure it is a relay. Thx for trying though. I took apart the headlight arm on the steering wheel, and one of the contacts in it was black. I cleaned it, but that wasn't it either. I don't know what to do...

 

check if there is any voltage going into the led bulb after u made sure it is not a fuse or relay (it should say what relay/fuse controls the cubby light)

 

Relays don't blow. Only fuses blow. All a relay does is turn one thing on if theres power going to something else. I'm willing to bet money that its a fuse. Did you wire the LEDs urself or did you get the factory ones? if you shorted the LEDs and there was an issue with a relay, if they used a relay, it would just kill the LEDs. Not the dash board. It has to be a blown fuse.

 

I dont think any of that lighting circuit is relay controlled in any way.

Did you check the fuses under the dash, and not just the ones under the hood? There are two fuse boxes. Also, did you actually test them with a meter and not just by looking at them? Visual inspection of a mini fuse is a very unreliable way of telling if they are blown.

 

Ok, here's the low down. lol While I was changing the factory bulb in the cubby for a led bulb, I shorted out the wire. I know it was stupid, but I had my lights on while I was plugging it in. I heard a pop from around my dash area, and my illumination went dead. Not the entire dash, just like if you have your headlights turned off. Now when I turn them on, nothing on my dash changes (you know how some lights dim, and the gauges light up). My head lights still turn on, but that's it.

I looked at all of my fuses, but none of them looked blown, so I took the head light switch off of my column, and looked at it. There are three copper contacts inside it. They are spring loaded. when you turn the lights on or off some of them raise and drop to make or break contact... One of them was black, but the others were clean. I think I just smoked that one, but I'm not sure. While I was cleaning it, I guess I warped it upwards ever so slightly. The way it's made, there's no way for me to bend it back. It's the only point that I can think of that all three (ac, radio, and gauges) would be getting power from. I ordered another one from e-bay. I hope that's the problem. If not, then maybe it's the dimmer **** on my gauge board. That's going to be a super pain to fix if that's the case. Seems like a fuse should have blown before it would burn that contact like that... I'll update my progress incase anyone else runs into this. I'll also post pics of the inside of the switch as soon as I get my new one for anyone who is curious about how it works.

Thanks for all the help. Keep any ideas you have coming, so I know what to try next if this doesn't work.

 

so now what exactly is affected besides the dash? Just the cubby light, the HVAC, and ur dash? are you getting all ur warning lights when u start the car up(Brake, Check engine, etc). I still think its a fuse. Post pics of this spring loaded thing. Kinda curious.

 

A fuse should have blown (and probably did). Like I said, looking at mini fuses is a bad way to tell if they are blown. Most I have seen blown will pass a quick visual inspection. A voltmeter check on both ends of the fuse while power is applied, or a continuity check with the fuse pulled, is a better method. The second is the best method IMO.

 

yea, the cubby light, the dash, the radio, and the ac won't come on, but the indicator light beside my ac, defrost, etc... still light up bright like the head lights are off. All my warning lights still light up too... I'm going to go get a meter in the morning (when the sun's up) and see where I can get from there.

 

from what i understand a fuse is what controlls that stuff...if you looked at the fuse it doesnt look dead doesnt mean its not try replacing it and see what happens....the only way the realy would be dead if you cut it or the wire itself was bad....

 

Ok, so I am a complete moron... the culprit was a fuse. I didn't know about the panel under the dash... I thought everyone was talking about the big one with relays in it just below the mirror controls.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll still post pics of the internal workings of the switch when I get it in the mail, but I'll just start a new thread for that. As I'd like to forget this one was ever written.

 

Ok.........I am going to give everyone the secret here to the universe of 12v systems to save your self this hassle and worse.........ready.........Always unplug the battery when doing electrical work on a car........even changing a headlight bulb can lead to blowing the brake light fuse........you gotta deenergise the car before doing electrical work always.