Notices
Scion tC 1G ICE & Interior In-car entertainment and electronics...

Thinkin about building my own box (first timer)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 03:49 AM
  #41  
trialsindude's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Strictly Scionized
SL Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,284
From: White Marsh, Balti Co., MD
Default

If you wanna keep the dimension of 40x19x11

Do that build the box with a common chamber and one port to the left. So sub up port back.

Go back to REaudio.com and put in your dimension make the port 4" wide and 10" it will tune it to 30hz and a total internal space of 3.012cuft so 1.5cuft per sub. Also in this way it will be 38sqin of port area too.
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 03:51 AM
  #42  
Tcguy85's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,434
From: Hyde Park, NY
Default

nice trialsindude. sounds like a good idea! try that!
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 03:53 AM
  #43  
a_german_named_hans's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,892
From: Long Island/Daytona Beach
Default

hmmm aright. well tomorrow morning I'll go ahead and cut off an extra .25 of an inch off the cover. Assuming it doesn't snow. Its supposed to snow starting tonight all through tomorrow here Actually I got a question.

What if I were to move the ports up the .25 of an inch. and leave the cover as is. Meaning the cover would have the port size be 10 sq inches while inside the ports would be 15 sq inches. That way once its all sealed, if I find I need to open up the ports more I could just cut back on the cover revealing those extra 5 sq inches. Would that work or does the entire port have to be exactly the same?
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 03:58 AM
  #44  
a_german_named_hans's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,892
From: Long Island/Daytona Beach
Default

hmmm. That doesn't look too bad. You think that'd sound good?
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 04:01 AM
  #45  
a_german_named_hans's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,892
From: Long Island/Daytona Beach
Default

I'm assuming this is what you mean?

I heard a common chamber isn't too good tho? Like individual chambers are supposed to be better.
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 04:02 AM
  #46  
Tcguy85's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,434
From: Hyde Park, NY
Default

Originally Posted by a_german_named_hans
hmmm aright. well tomorrow morning I'll go ahead and cut off an extra .25 of an inch off the cover. Assuming it doesn't snow. Its supposed to snow starting tonight all through tomorrow here Actually I got a question.

What if I were to move the ports up the .25 of an inch. and leave the cover as is. Meaning the cover would have the port size be 10 sq inches while inside the ports would be 15 sq inches. That way once its all sealed, if I find I need to open up the ports more I could just cut back on the cover revealing those extra 5 sq inches. Would that work or does the entire port have to be exactly the same?

thats one way to surely get port noise. you want it to be the same all the way through. doing the opposite isn't a bad idea. flaring it i mean. i'd do like trialsindude suggested.
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 04:03 AM
  #47  
Tcguy85's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,434
From: Hyde Park, NY
Default

Originally Posted by a_german_named_hans
I'm assuming this is what you mean?

I heard a common chamber isn't too good tho? Like individual chambers are supposed to be better.
old bad myth. using a shared chamber is fine. most people do it. perfectly fine.
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 04:07 AM
  #48  
a_german_named_hans's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,892
From: Long Island/Daytona Beach
Default

aright ima do what trials said. I'll cut a new top to cover the entire thing. Cut down the front, make a new left side, and I'll just reuse and re cut the ports and the separator and I should be good. Hopefully I'll be able to do it tomorrow if it doesn't snow. I'll keep you guys up to date. Thanks for the help. You have no idea how much I appreciate it.
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 04:10 AM
  #49  
trialsindude's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Strictly Scionized
SL Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,284
From: White Marsh, Balti Co., MD
Default

You might need to do some internal bracing also with a box that big...
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 04:14 AM
  #50  
Tcguy85's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,434
From: Hyde Park, NY
Default

Originally Posted by trialsindude
You might need to do some internal bracing also with a box that big...
i was about to suggest the same thing. he's not using crazy subs on crazy power but it never huts to make the box stronger. you could take the center divider and just cut the center of it out and leave like an inch and a half or so all the way around it. it'd make a nice brace.
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 04:14 AM
  #51  
a_german_named_hans's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,892
From: Long Island/Daytona Beach
Default

You mean kinda like support columns inside the box? Could do that too. I got a lot of MDF left lol. I probably got enough to make two whole new tops I think I might a bought too much. but hey. too much is better then too little.
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 04:25 AM
  #52  
trialsindude's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Strictly Scionized
SL Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,284
From: White Marsh, Balti Co., MD
Default

Yeah like have a piece of mdf that fits perfectly inside but cut out 4 triangles out of it or something to have a X shape brace... Use your imagination
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 04:26 AM
  #53  
Tcguy85's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,434
From: Hyde Park, NY
Default

Originally Posted by a_german_named_hans
You mean kinda like support columns inside the box? Could do that too. I got a lot of MDF left lol. I probably got enough to make two whole new tops I think I might a bought too much. but hey. too much is better then too little.
yea mdf is pretty cheap anyway.
Old Feb 23, 2008 | 05:26 PM
  #54  
a_german_named_hans's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,892
From: Long Island/Daytona Beach
Default

Heres what I rebuilt. Hows it look?


Old Feb 23, 2008 | 07:14 PM
  #55  
trialsindude's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Strictly Scionized
SL Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,284
From: White Marsh, Balti Co., MD
Default

Much better, but that center divider, make some holes cut a square out of it or something, because when you place your subs in there you might create a choke point for the one sub that will sit in that spot.
Old Feb 23, 2008 | 07:17 PM
  #56  
a_german_named_hans's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,892
From: Long Island/Daytona Beach
Default

Yea aright. So once I cut down on that ya figure I'm good to screw it together, glue, silicone it and all that? Anything else I should do to the wood before I clue it together.
Old Feb 23, 2008 | 07:25 PM
  #57  
trialsindude's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Strictly Scionized
SL Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,284
From: White Marsh, Balti Co., MD
Default

If you have a router, you can route the inside of that port board and the corner! But thats if you have a router! Or cut a 3.3" piece of wood with 45* angles and put it in where the port is bent 90* degrees. Thats to create a more even air flow. And it will also keep the port 4" wide through out the whole thing I believe. Check my thread of my TTB box and you see what I mean. But besides that use wood glue!! Thats important, even better use TiteBond III, thats what everyone use and most happy about, especially with someone that did a strength test on wood glue and the TiteBond comes out first. Remember that it is the glue that holds the box together, when you use screws it is only there just to hold the box til the glue dries! You can evenly space out the screws about 4" from each other. To make everything clean, pre-drill the holes and countersink the holes before you screw it in so that you can fill it in with wood putty and sand afterwards. Like I said check out my TTB box thread and you will see what I am talking about.
Old Feb 23, 2008 | 07:56 PM
  #58  
a_german_named_hans's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,892
From: Long Island/Daytona Beach
Default

aright. Thanks for the help trials. I'll head over to home depot and buy some titebond later.
Old Feb 24, 2008 | 12:24 AM
  #59  
Tcguy85's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,434
From: Hyde Park, NY
Default

looks great! do what trials said with that divider. either put a few
BIG holes in it or cut the center out leaving like an inch or 2 all the way around. but looks great. keep us informed!
Old Feb 24, 2008 | 10:59 PM
  #60  
a_german_named_hans's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,892
From: Long Island/Daytona Beach
Default

I finished it. Its in my car at the moment, takes up the entire trunk LOL! I'll cover it up with carpet some other time, right now I'm just enjoying it.


It is exactly what I was looking for. The bass is a lot more solid and you can definitely feel it more, Before the bass was kinda weak and sounded, well kinda fake, not sure how to explain it. It sounds perfect right now.
trialsindude &Tcguy85: you guys are the best, thank you so much for your help, I seriously couldn't have done it with-out you guys. I appreciate it so much.



All times are GMT. The time now is 02:09 AM.