Wiring up Led's in engine bay
#1
Wiring up Led's in engine bay
Im going to buy some of the felxable water-proof strips from oznium and install them in my engine bay. I want to either 1. wire them up to a hood pin or 2. Hook them up to a switch inside the car. If i go with the switch how would i hook it up. The led has obviously a pos and neg but i cant remember what goes where.
#2
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you can wire up a switch in any way as long as its in series in the circuit... closing and opening the switch merely cuts or allows current flow...
however you want to wire the leds, fused wire to battery (which is preferred) should be sufficient, with the switch anywhere in the circuit... and the battery is right there anyway.
a momentary switch can be installed that will turn your leds off when the hood is closed, and turn on when the hood is opened.
just place it in a position where the switch is pressed down when the hood is closed.
however you want to wire the leds, fused wire to battery (which is preferred) should be sufficient, with the switch anywhere in the circuit... and the battery is right there anyway.
a momentary switch can be installed that will turn your leds off when the hood is closed, and turn on when the hood is opened.
just place it in a position where the switch is pressed down when the hood is closed.
#3
let me know how it goes and what size wiring and fuse and what not that you use, becaues i've already got 2 of my led strips and switch, just need to figure out what i'll need for my next order.
#5
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here's one of many ways to do it..
- hook positive wire to battery with an inline fuse or other fuse..
- then go to the LED strips
- wire negative wires from led strips to switch
- wire the other side of the switch to ground
- hook positive wire to battery with an inline fuse or other fuse..
- then go to the LED strips
- wire negative wires from led strips to switch
- wire the other side of the switch to ground
#7
A good way to do it is have a push switch that disrupts the currant when the hood is closed......on another car I used the same thing to open my cowl induction when the gas was put to the floor it turned on the circuit and door opened.....same type switch would work for this as well.......just mount it to the fender in one of the open holes and when hood opens the circuit is closed and lights go on..........very clever.......not sure why I did not do that with my LEds.......LOL.
#10
Pretty easy to do..........first think of your switch as a draw bridge.........when circuit is open or up no power can travel.......when it is closed power can now travel through the wire.........
get a switch that when pushed (hood closed)it opens the circuit and in doing so cuts off power.........when released it closes the circuit and allows currant to travel..........what I did is start at the back of the engine bay and mounted them in the firewall on the piece held there withthe two white pins.........take the wires and extend them to the next location under the passenger fender........then route the wires to the next location onthe radiator shroud in my case........then extend it to the driver fender.........hook one line off of the last light to one side of switch and then add wire to the other side of the switch to negative on battery..........hook other wire from last light to positive on battery.............now when you open the hood the switch closes the circuit.
I would post pictures of mine but none of it is visible as I tucked every thing up out of site and cut to lenght all my wires and zip tied everything.......
Draw it out so it makes sense and make sure which side of the wires is pos or neg before starting...........hope that helps......also put a fuse inline on it that way if it grounds out it will not smoke anything else.
get a switch that when pushed (hood closed)it opens the circuit and in doing so cuts off power.........when released it closes the circuit and allows currant to travel..........what I did is start at the back of the engine bay and mounted them in the firewall on the piece held there withthe two white pins.........take the wires and extend them to the next location under the passenger fender........then route the wires to the next location onthe radiator shroud in my case........then extend it to the driver fender.........hook one line off of the last light to one side of switch and then add wire to the other side of the switch to negative on battery..........hook other wire from last light to positive on battery.............now when you open the hood the switch closes the circuit.
I would post pictures of mine but none of it is visible as I tucked every thing up out of site and cut to lenght all my wires and zip tied everything.......
Draw it out so it makes sense and make sure which side of the wires is pos or neg before starting...........hope that helps......also put a fuse inline on it that way if it grounds out it will not smoke anything else.
#11
i plan on having the exact same setup as you described and in the same placement. So all i have to do is connect the wires from one led strip to the next and at the end hook them up to a hood pin and the battery?
#13
Yes do not wire them in series.........they wil not work as they have a built in resistor......
Start at the fire wall light and add onto the + and - wires with a wire crimp a new pair of +- wire..........take this to the next light and twist together and crimp the + to the + and the - to the -.......add more wire to goto the next light.........repeat steps till the switch.........at the switch it has 2 posts on the back side........hook for uniformitys sake the - to one post and then hook to the other a wire that goes to your - on the battery..........it will interupt the circuits ability to allow flow of currant when the hood is closed and when hood opens currant will be reestablished.........
Did that make sense......no worries.........wiring is a bit of a pain at first......once you get it you are going to be fine.............also use heat shrink tubing over the crimps......this will give it water proofing and help keep connection snug.
Start at the fire wall light and add onto the + and - wires with a wire crimp a new pair of +- wire..........take this to the next light and twist together and crimp the + to the + and the - to the -.......add more wire to goto the next light.........repeat steps till the switch.........at the switch it has 2 posts on the back side........hook for uniformitys sake the - to one post and then hook to the other a wire that goes to your - on the battery..........it will interupt the circuits ability to allow flow of currant when the hood is closed and when hood opens currant will be reestablished.........
Did that make sense......no worries.........wiring is a bit of a pain at first......once you get it you are going to be fine.............also use heat shrink tubing over the crimps......this will give it water proofing and help keep connection snug.
#16
Hey Chris...........did you get yours done or is it too cold out..........yeah and now I am drinking jegerbombs.........nothing like NOS and jeger...........LOL.
MY under glow is coming soon..........just got my new red radiator hoses and they will be installed this weekend if the rain holds out.
Putting together my stereo list now.........little worried about hte cost........so far over $2000 into head unit and amps and speakers and no wires,or crap to hook it all up.............nothing will be seen.........amps going inside of the panels............and subs under back by tire..........also going to install LEDS in all of it too and a couple of monitors for fun...........should be nice when completed..........been a long time since I built a stereo and all the stuff that used to work is no longer good quality for the most part........sucks being old.......LOL.
MY under glow is coming soon..........just got my new red radiator hoses and they will be installed this weekend if the rain holds out.
Putting together my stereo list now.........little worried about hte cost........so far over $2000 into head unit and amps and speakers and no wires,or crap to hook it all up.............nothing will be seen.........amps going inside of the panels............and subs under back by tire..........also going to install LEDS in all of it too and a couple of monitors for fun...........should be nice when completed..........been a long time since I built a stereo and all the stuff that used to work is no longer good quality for the most part........sucks being old.......LOL.
#17
Hey Chris...........did you get yours done or is it too cold out..........yeah and now I am drinking jegerbombs.........nothing like NOS and jeger...........LOL.
MY under glow is coming soon..........just got my new red radiator hoses and they will be installed this weekend if the rain holds out.
Putting together my stereo list now.........little worried about hte cost........so far over $2000 into head unit and amps and speakers and no wires,or crap to hook it all up.............nothing will be seen.........amps going inside of the panels............and subs under back by tire..........also going to install LEDS in all of it too and a couple of monitors for fun...........should be nice when completed..........been a long time since I built a stereo and all the stuff that used to work is no longer good quality for the most part........sucks being old.......LOL.
MY under glow is coming soon..........just got my new red radiator hoses and they will be installed this weekend if the rain holds out.
Putting together my stereo list now.........little worried about hte cost........so far over $2000 into head unit and amps and speakers and no wires,or crap to hook it all up.............nothing will be seen.........amps going inside of the panels............and subs under back by tire..........also going to install LEDS in all of it too and a couple of monitors for fun...........should be nice when completed..........been a long time since I built a stereo and all the stuff that used to work is no longer good quality for the most part........sucks being old.......LOL.
#18
nope. i still only have 2 of the strips. i'm actually waiting to work on the system. ya stereo's get expensive. i'm into 900 between my AVIC d3 w/ back up cam and wiring, 35 for 4 gauge wiring kit ( get it on ebay you'll save a ton!!!) 135 for both 10's, 215 for a 400$ amp. if you need palces to check let me know. my sub box is a combination of black w/ orange vinyl "tC'''s that will be glowing from cold cathodes. so between that and painting the interior whenever it finally hits about 40 lol that'll be my project. i'm hoping to do the engine lighting before HIN in may along w/ my rims. send me pics of the radiator hoses and how hard that is and price and what not
and yes nos and jaeger kicked my ___ a few weeks ago you 2 are gonna kill me for introducing NOS lol
and yes nos and jaeger kicked my ___ a few weeks ago you 2 are gonna kill me for introducing NOS lol
#19
well i am in the same boat..i know so far that i am going to use ozniums flexible LED strips..up to now i am thinking of a long strip for the rear, and front, and short ones for the sides..you guys think that will be too much..i am open to recommendations on siz and placement