im sorry but i did for get to add that in the list ...all the prep work(wet sand and final scuff) is included of course we WOULDNT spray the car without preping it first.... and also there would be NO need for primer since that estimate was for a car WITHOUT any damage so therefore primer wouldnt be necsesary.

 

You're asking for trouble if you strip the paint off a new vehicle. Don't waste your money on striping the paint off of a new vehicle. as mention before a full complete paint job from inside and out goes around $4500 to $7000. These kinda of price usually include life time warranty.

 

im sure some shops could do a complete for $2500-3000 ......but i doubt you will get your vehicle fully blown apart and fully jambed for that price...now im not saying it IMPOSSIBLE to find a shop to do it for that price but thats pretty cheap......but upwards of $5000 is not UNheard of either.

 

[quote="WagenMaster"]no way!? MOBworks is who painted my Miata!

I brought the Miata to them fully sanded and primed and what I thought was no body damage. They re-sanded and re-primed (found a few minor dings I missed) and painted the entire car (including the engine bay, trunk, and door sills) for about $3k. I had them do a little finishing work on the VIS nose that I customized, too. For the engine, they didn't pull it -- instead they disassembled all the fender-mounted components and covered the rest.

The result is outstanding. On a bright sunny day if I poke around waaaay at the back of the engine bay, I can maybe find a few corners where the original color is still there. But I have to really search. The car went from Classic Red to Sunset Orange.

 

I would figure $300-$400 a body panel.

hood, 2 doors, trunk, front and rear fenders, front and rear bumpers....

about 10 body panels, so your looking at about 3- 4K

If it was me, I would wait a year or two, get the usual nicks, chips, and dents, THEN get a new paint job....

 

We'll im not a scion owner but check forums and almost bought 1.The paint thing is on me..Im a Collision repair tech.Depending on the yellow you are looking to go for or such.Either the type R pheonix yellow..or a Yellow pearl that honda also has.The price usually depends on stages and difficulty of spraying.Pearls and metallics you have to worry about tiger striping and getting all the pearl to go on even and not blotchty.But preparation is 1 of the main keys to painting a vehicle.You can spray over a car which the clear coat was just sanded off..but the finish and shine will be alterd by the paint on the vehicle.and to the Maaco reponse your correct i wouldnt take anything to Maaco i have a friend that works at 1..depending on what kind of paint job you want done..a cheap get you by 1..or actuall yhave them use there DuPont paints instead of there "Matrix system" they use.I like the sherwin Williams and NAPA Martin Senior paints.There user friendly..If you dont spray the house of Kolors paint correctly also the paint job could turn out not the greatest looking thing.But its up to you what you wanna do..Im bout to repaint my prelude which was hit a totalled i have customized back to what it was.Using a House of Kolors Sunset orange pearl bottom with a black top.If you need to know anything i didnt put let me know.

 

Flowmini98 is pretty much the only person on here that seems to fully understand what it takes to do a FULL color change. I own a bodyshop that is into full-blown customs. When we do a color change, it ALWAYS entails dis-assembly of the entire car. As far as painting the engine bay, my xb is so completely changed under the hood, the Scion district service mgr. tried to tell me my warranty was void because I pulled the motor to do the paint work. Fortunately for me, I took pictures of the entire color change process and showed them to him. Then he tried to tell me I was not qualified to dis-assemble parts under the hood because I didn't work for toyota. I them pulled out my ASE MASTER TECHNICIAN card and everything was all better. Warranty still good. Now back to the price of a full color change- as long as it's not house of color candy paint,(over 1,500 just for materials) you're looking at around 6,000 to 6,500- including the engine bay.

 

Anyone can be book smart and pass there ASE exam to get your ASE Cert..I have 1 in Collision Repair..Painting andRefinishing and Welding also but being capable of doing all the work is another.But prepping is a big deal when painting a vehicle..you can either have the whole car striped down to the metal..or have it cheaply done..if te Vehicle isnt preped righ..paint could raise or fisheye..which youl have fun sanding back out and re doing costing the body shop money..but thats there fault not yours.Flowmini did have it down on tac.You pay for what you get but like a few local shops here.You may pay 4500$ for a paint job..and get a nice 1 but there will be flaws..definatly look into the shops work before you actually take it in there,or you could regret it.[/img]

 

Any shop that strips a NEW factory finish to bare metal to paint it needs their head examined!!!! Do you, 1LoudPreludeWV, strip EVERY panel that comes through the shop for repair before it's painted?? I sure hate it for your customers if you do. I bet the paint match from panel to panel is horible! Not being able to blend the paint!
As for the fish-eyes, they are most commonly caused by air-borne contamination, not poor prepping. If that was the case, every car rolling out of maaco would be fish-eyes from top to bottom, cause they don't prep for sh#t! And i'm sure you know as well as me, that the ASE is more than just a piece of paper, it's proof to the general public that you have SOME sense of what the hell you are doing. My whole shop is ASE certified, and I take great pride in that. Not many shops can say that. You may pay 4500$ for a paint job..and get a nice 1 but there will be flaws..definatly look into the shops work before you actually take it in there,or you could regret it. This is so true, BUT!!!!!!!!!! You should know that there is no such thing as a perfect paint job without flaws.

 

No we dont sand a whole vehicle down.We usually just wet sand the vehicle down and seel the vehicle in most situations.Or primer the vehicle with enamel primer and then seel the vehicle but we arent a all out custom shop more than likely like yours.Mainly just do Collision work or restoratons on vehicles with rust and dent problems or spot panels.And about the ASE yes it is a test..and yes its about yur knowing of what to do..different people...different opinions.But i do believe if someone went over the manuals and was book smart of it they could pass it.First time i took it i failed b 3 question second time i passed after more book studying on it..But its a matter of opinion but i believe we both know what we are doing and talking about and iv only been working in a body shop for a yr and a half..and had 2 years of Collision Repair class.I do better with Fiberglass anyways..would rather be a fiberglass tech and work on boats.

 

Damn you guys are funny ! I've been painting since 1978 and learned a long time ago to stay away from this kind of stuff ! I'd rather guzzle PPG than argue with another painter ! He'll find out what it costs !

 

Amen.

 

yah, not to mention that the perspective of what the customer wants is being lost. spending $6,000 (or whatever these insane prices you guys toss around are) for a paint job makes NO sense if the car is a daily driver. if the customer just wants a color change which looks good, but is going to be out there living in the elements like most cars, then don't go scaring people with all this talk about fisheyes and tiger striping and the need (or lack thereof) to totally strip the car and pull the engine.

it all depends on the customer's goals.

if this is gonna be a show car, then fine. spend $10k on the paint. in fact, a $5k paint job will probably be considered "cheap" by concours standards.

but i think the original question was for a car which would be driven regularly. in that case, forget pulling the engine and forget these super high prices.

nonetheless, it's entertaining to see people who have in-depth knowledge of the process slog it out....

 

you're right RACERZACK, we got off the whole question to begin with. Sorry everybody, I just get a little worked up about paint stuff sometimes, it's easy to do when painting is your whole life. Also sorry to you 1LoudPreludeWV, it's just the way you were describing things, it sounded like every car gets stripped to metal, which i knew couldn't be right, but that's how it sounded. s for the original question, around 6,000 for a full change, and around here, thats notun-common for a daily driver.

 

yeah we did go overboard with this nonsense..but different painters have different techniques..like air pressure...volumn..patten..you'd proll go what the hell with my air pressure but its how i was taught and it works good..cuz we do vehicles to get them in and out..not show cars.suppose to be aond 40-45 PSI..i use 80..but gun to vehicle distance is farther away..and with the SATA jet 90 gun or sharpe platinum i use..it bust's the paint particles up pretty well also.But i doubt ill use 80 on my car when i repaint it in April due to someone running a redlight and totalling my car...

 

That was such an awesome happy ending. Could you feel them hug? I could.

 

Ima bout to go cry i just went and spent 289.64 on 3 quarts of paint for my car (SRT4 neon,Orange Blast Pearl) 174.60(2 quarts) on metallic silver for top half of my 2 tone paint job....and still needa buy all my clear and hardner and reducers...joy :-)lol but itl be soooo worth it..sorry i aint a Scioner..but i like em :-D but im still a Honda man..atleast a Prelude man.