DK01

I recently just changed my brake pads and now the brake pedal engages lower then before to stop the car. Does anyone know how to adjust the braking point on the brake pedal? Thanks

surfcity40

is the fluid level correct?

DK01

Yes, fluid is at the correct level.

surfcity40

odd, if anything, changing worn pads should make the brake point earlier (like when pads are new and thicker), not later.... unless the fluid is low or the line needs bleeding. did you let air in the line? other than that, i'm no help.

leastbay

the best thing you can do is get a hand operated vacuum pump, put it on the nipple of the brake bleeder open the master cylinder turn the nipple with a wrench and pump the air out of it in between doing that start the car and press the brake pedal a couple times to set the brakes closer to the rotor, make sure you keep the master cylinder full

ScionBandit

you should flush the brake system at the same time

DK01

Thanks guys for your replys. The reason I changed the brake pads was to upgrade to the Hawks brake pads. The oem pads only had about 8k miles on it before the change. Which the pedal engagement shouldn't really have moved lower because of this but for some reason it did. Otherwise, braking performance did not suffer.

The_Instigator

A complete pad/rotor bed-in procedure can dramaticlly increase bite in the system. Its common for new pads to feel like they have less bite when first installed. After the 2nd bed in cycle, most brake systems will have maximum bite which makes the pedal feel improve quite a bit.

https://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/w...contents.shtml

ScionBandit

8K, dont flush, n/m

did you break the pads in correctly??
or just slap them on and go? if so thats where your issue is

DK01

Yes, I followed the bedding procedure to brake in the pads. I also got the rotors turned because the pads were squeaking in the beginning which now it fixed that problem.

ScionBandit

hmmm
cuz when i did mine, pedal was nice and stiff when braking

The_Instigator

Did you follow the Hawk instructions or the ones I linked to? The Hawk bed in procedures are very "soft" as our is much more aggressive. I think by doing a more thourough bed in procedure you will find that the results will be better.

ScionBandit

i agree
i didn't follow Hawks procedure, had one of my auto-xpert techs do it
very well done

DK01

I did follow the Stoptech procedure when I bedded the pads in. So I assume you can't adjust the pedal engagement point on the brake pedal. Since no one mentioned about it yet. It just feels little unsafe to have push down the pedal so far down to stop the car. Thanks again guys if anyone does know, please do tell.

melvynray

i just changed my brake pads/rotors today and its got the same exact problem! how di i fix it.. i feel i have to slam the brake pedal down to stop! please help.

leastbay

im telling you use a vacuum pump its the best and fastest way to bleed them

ScionBandit

same question i asked him, did you bed them properly or just slap them on and go?

melvynray

i have drilled slotted with new ceramic pads.. and they were professionally done.. but i feel im gonna crash!

melvynray

well, i had a brake company do them.. they did everything.. .

DK01

I don't think that I need to bleed the lines because 1) the original pads were only had less then 8k miles on it 2) I barely had to move the piston in the caliper to set the new pads in. It moved about no more then 2mm to reset the new pads.