custom sub box
Hey guys i was wondering if anyone in here has put a custom sub box in their car yet. I want to have one put in but im deffinately not skilled in the fiberglass department and dont think i want to even attempt it. Im thinking the spare tire well is what i want to do has anyone done this or any custom box yet??? Also anyone know anyone who builds them for a good price. The place by me quoted a extremely high price.
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Team N.V.S.
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From: Team NVS Mechanic
Unless they can be premade (Audioformz), then fiberglass is expensive. But, look at my boxes, no one will have that setup ever again. I think having a unique setup is worth the price. Also, did the box setup include the removal of everything, i.e. the spare tire and all that jazz. If I had a tC, I'd gut the back and really go to town with that thing.
Mike R.
rolex87
Mike R.
rolex87
I already gutted out the trunk not to much to take out, they wanted 600 and that was for a plain spare tire well box, flat top flush with floor no finishing on it at all. I wanted to cut a hole in the cargo carpet the size of the speaker and jsut ahve it poking out. I was going to do the rest myself (amp rack and plexi stuff) I just dont have a clue when it comes to fiberglass and seems a bit complicated for a DIY with no instruction thing. Id rather pay a bit to have it done right as my whole system together is around 1800 (i know not much to an audio guy) which to me is A LOT for a system so i would hate to have the sub sound bad cause ididnt make the box the right way. Wanna make a box for me??? lol
If your setup is going to be flat, my suggestion would be to have it made out of MDF. It'd be way cheaper concidering you're just going to cover it . personally I wouldn't pay for fiberglass, then pay for someone to paint it just to throw a cargo mat over it.
I'm already way ahead of you. There's some decent room on the right side of the trunk for a sub box. I'm thinking of taking all that styrofoam storage stuff out and flushing something in on that right side. My preliminary measurements give me just a shade over .65 cubic feet, which should be appropriate for the 10" sub I'm planning on putting in it.
It'll be awhile before it happens, but I'll post pics when it does.
FYI - I'll probably use fiberglass and kitty hair on the bottom and right side of the box, and MDF on the left side where the woofer will mount.
It'll be awhile before it happens, but I'll post pics when it does.
FYI - I'll probably use fiberglass and kitty hair on the bottom and right side of the box, and MDF on the left side where the woofer will mount.
Dumb audio newbie question what is mdf?? I deff dont care if the fiberglass and whatnot is painted. I would use wood accept i cant build it round and i need all the space i can get as my 12" needs a minimum of 1 cuft ideally 1.3 And out of curiosity where did you guys learn to fiberglass i have founf tutorials but nothing that is really easy to follow they mostly have holes in the process. Anything you guys reccomend to use as far as instruction with pictures or a video or something. Thanks
MDF stands for medium-density fiberboard.
taken from a faq site:
Q: What is MDF?
A: MDF belongs to the hardboard family of products which are made from wood fibers glued under heat and pressure. Medium Density Fiberboard typically has densities between 33 and 50 pounds per cubic feet while High Density Fiberboard (HDF) ranges between 50 and 80 pounds per cubic feet. Hardboard was first produced in 1924 by W. H. Mason, founder of Masonite Corp. The term Masonite is therefore often used to denote hardboard products, especially HDF.
Physical and dimensional tolerances for MDF are specified in ANSI A208.2-1986
taken from a faq site:
Q: What is MDF?
A: MDF belongs to the hardboard family of products which are made from wood fibers glued under heat and pressure. Medium Density Fiberboard typically has densities between 33 and 50 pounds per cubic feet while High Density Fiberboard (HDF) ranges between 50 and 80 pounds per cubic feet. Hardboard was first produced in 1924 by W. H. Mason, founder of Masonite Corp. The term Masonite is therefore often used to denote hardboard products, especially HDF.
Physical and dimensional tolerances for MDF are specified in ANSI A208.2-1986
sorry hit submit to soon.
this is the link
http://www.lungster.com/l/speakers/mdffaq/mdf.html#Q2
has some other info and working with tips.
this is the link
http://www.lungster.com/l/speakers/mdffaq/mdf.html#Q2
has some other info and working with tips.
Pretty much exactly what I'm looking at doing. If you don't mind, how much did you pay for that if you didn't do it yourself. I got a quote for about $200 to do something like that.
I was going to put my 2 channel amp beneath the passenger seat, and my sub amp right below the box in the storage place.
I was going to put my 2 channel amp beneath the passenger seat, and my sub amp right below the box in the storage place.
Originally Posted by spyderz9

Just finished my custom fiberglass box for my ID MAX 12
So, does the placement of that one sub in the rear, offset to the right, present any imaging problems? Typically, imaging is associated more with hi- and mids, but I just wanted to know if there would be any problems with the sub in that particular placement?
Thanks in advance...
True Nick, however, remember that even though the sound it not "directional" that doesnt mean its sound cant be located. Anything from a rattling panel, license plate, cone resonance, poor x-over frequency or its slope can pull your front image to the back and "direct" you to the subs location. In a car we have the luxury HT's dont have in that we dont have to fill a 12x12 room, even though the waves are longer than that. As a hatch we will also have a free eq boost at resonant freq as well. Extra boom in other words. I wouldnt worry too much about placement as much as I would worry about the deadening of the cheap plastic panels in our cars. The factory system already vibrates the door panels pretty good, so save some money and deaden your car first I would say or if money is tight, borrow a buddys car and lay out some extra wire and place his sub in your hatch, run some tones through and get an idea of what is going to be shaking apart in there with some real power. With the right side carpeted panel removed and the styrofoam "storage" area removed, there is some nice room to make a killer enclosure for a good ten inch sub and still keep the spare tire. Just mod your carpeted panel afterwards and youre stock!!
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