ya those are the connecters you need to take off the battery. leaving you with the two post dangling, those post with the bolts are what you put the terminals with the holes in them in my first picture. take off the nut, slip the terminal with the hole on it, then tighten the bolt back up. this has nothing to do with the battery, as its disconnected, all we are doing is removing the +/- connections OFF of the battery, and bolting the ones for the power converter to that one.

the other end on the other hand you plug into the power converter, the power converter has its own power plug, that plugs into a wall socket orangesuburban. thats how you get power to your car. you can use everything electrical on your car, but beware the more electrical you have the more AMPS you want in the power converter. I ran a 52AMP max/45amp stable power converter, I was running my stereo loud (not too loud), interior lights, park lights, underbody lights, and wheel well lights, and other accent lighting. just look at the voltage/amp meter to make sure your not in the red. 45amps is plenty for what most need it for.

 

So I was right then, the two wires(posts) that go to the battery are wat connect to the 4 guage wire.... Wow seems pretty simple. Last question where do you put it all when done connecting, to assure that it doesnt touch anything its not suppose to?

 

Here's the cheap way. Go buy you a OLDER or BASIC Model battery charger, disconnect your battery cables, run the allegator clamps from the Battery Charger up the engine bay, and connect them to your battery cables and tape off your Battery Terminals on the actual Battery. Do not buy the digital ones, they sense when the battery is full and will turn off. Get the ones that have the little needle that moves, the needles that are on the power supply listed.

This is probably the easiest way and cheapest. Granted, you will have to disconnect the remote wire to your system so the amps don't draw to much power and overload the charger... with the other way, idk...

 

I got my inverter hooked up with a quick disconnect so I can just pop it on and push it under my car at shows... its pretty sweet.

 

....Now that's a reason to go that route...

 

Battery charger may be cheaper but not the best way. I tried this and my strobes killed it in about 5 mins

 

?

 

The power verter and not batt. charger.

 

This is true, but if you don't have anything that really draws that much power, it works great. for system owners, you just got to disconnect the remote wire so the amps dont turn on and you should be fine. I don't have any strobes or anything and had my car on my battery charger for 3 days straight at World of Wheels and it worked out fine. Parking lights, Engine LED's, door LEDs, foot well LEDs, System LEDs, TV's, System strobes, Halos... Worked out ok. I think I might look into the inverter idea of it provides enough power to power it though.

 

one thing that needs to be considered also... is if you are taking the step to power your car, do it right because you will be judged on that install too!

 

Good to know

 

you run the power/ground cables down the engine bay and run it to the rear of the car, hide the power converter below the exhaust shield of the car. no one will see it.

 

Waterproof? If I did that much, I'd keep it there

 

lol i didnt say mount it under there. the main focus to be using it is for an indoor show, so it sits on the carpet. just out of visual range for anyone to know you have one. and you can keep your amps wired and system turned on. a 50amp converter is plenty to run all your electronics. i was hardly hitting 15amp with all my lighting, but when my system was hitting on the basslines it went to 30-35amp. then there is another 10amps for headroom. plenty

 

Get a decent power converter or power supply with at least 30 amps constant should be good enough, unless you plan on cranking up your stereo (which is kinda pointless). Don't use the battery chargers as they were not meant to handle a high current draw for long periods of time, esp the low amp ones. It's an easy way to overload the charger, fry some stuff, and risk catching something on fire.