This one if for all you DIY-ers out there....i was just trying to install my S and mid-pipes, but hit a snag when, for the life of me, could not undo any of the bolts! (also had a heck of a time with the O2 sensor, but was able to get that).

How does one break loose these nuts and/or bolts that have over 37,000 miles and is pretty darn rusted?

Thanks for your help!

 

try wd or some other lube

 

Let is soak overnight with wd or some other lubricant.

Heating it might also help. I couldn't remove the bolts from my exhaust system before. I got a torch and heated the bolts on the cat converter and after a good tug with my breaker bar, it was off.

 

Thanks guys, i did try some wd, but i guess i need to let it soak a bit huh?

 

keep putting some on. same ____ happened putting in my exhaust system. got em' bolts off after a while. oh by the way, are you using a torque wrench?

 

I must have gotten very lucky...

My complete exhaust took under an hour from start to finish. I was using a floor jack and an air-ratchet, but none of the bolts were siezed.....even the O2 sensor came right out w/ no soaking.

I DID, however, have to lube up the rubber hangars to remove the stock exhaust.

^why would you need a torque wrench?

---Paul

 

when we were putting my exhaust system on the car, we used torque wrenches because my nuts were rusty as ____. it made them a lot easier to take off since none of my friends and i had power tools or a good clearance for that matter.

 

That makes sense

 

ok, for any of you who need, my friend suggested something which worked. if you have a pipe laying around (or the handle to a hydraulic jack works well), attach it to the handle of your rachet to gain more leverage.

 

theres a product like wd40 called twister, and i must say it works 10x's better then wd

 

pb blaster is another lube that works better than wd

 

That works too, but you gotta watchout because sometimes the bolts can become brittle over time and you can break the head off by just using brute force without loosening it up first. When the head breaks off, you're going to have a fun time ahead of you

 

then you have to end up literally drilling those _____es off. really really not fun.

 

Putting a pipe on a ratchet is a bad idea......for your car.....your body part that makes contact with said bar when ratchet shatters.......or the person in the way of said bar when it goes flying off ........

get a breaker bar......they are $20 at Sears.......then put a bar on it......if you break it then you are amazingly unlucky and should not work on cars....

Also exhaust bolts do better with impact tools.....torch....and some marvel mystery oil or WD.......put oil on....let it soak.....torch it..tap with hammer to relax metal a bit...more oil and let sit.......hit with torch and then loosen......bolts come right off......

 

I used this product called "PB Catalyst," and it worked wonders when I removed exhaust manifold studs from an old (1950's) ford motor, so they were in there a loooong time. It's basically like wd40 on steriods. I would suggest drenching the bolts in that stuff and then grabbing a 3/8 socket wrench and tapping the wrench lightly with a hammer until the bolt starts to move. I'd recommend against breaker bars and torque wrenches for exhaust system bolts as previously suggested, because you can snap the bolts so easily or tweak something. These are definitely not grade 8 bolts you're dealing with lol.

 

fortnately for me, nothing broke off.

i did try PB Blaster...didnt really help. perhaps i didnt wait for it to soak in, i'm a bit impatient.

 

PB Blaster is by far the best penetrator...i use it on the commercial fishing boat i work on when we need to do repairs...if any penetrator is going to help it would be PB Blaster def