I have 47k on my car and I have never done anythiing to do with the brakes. They are beginning to grind/squeel when I first pull the car out of the driveway.

So,

How many miles did or do you have on the stock pads and rotors?

If you have replaced pads or rotors... what did you use and what was your experience?

I am looking at Axxis Ultimates.

 

I replaced my pads and rotors and calipers for that matter at 580 something miles, but for stock with 47k on them sounds about right. For you you should only need to replace the pads and check your fluid. if you rode around to much on squeaky brakes you may have damaged the rotor itself and would therefore require you to replace that.

To replace is quite simple I believe there is a FAQ on this floating around so I won't list the steps, since they are already done.

Hope this helps

 

I have 50,300 miles on my stock brakes. They still have some pad left, hope i can go to 60k or more. When the old ones wear out i want to get cross drilled and slotted rotors, braided steel brake lines and new fluid.

 

still got my stockies and i'm hittin up 46k

 

im at 17k and have to replace them.....

if you wanna know why, PM me.

 

I just hit 37,000 on my 05 Tc. Pads are fine, dont usually brake much. Most of time Im down shifting to avoid braking

 

around 37k mine went out....costed a little over 200 at the dealership....

i wanted to get cross drilled and slotted rotors and new pads

 

What do you mean "went out"? Just the pads?

1 out 10 morning mine will grind the first time I hit the breaks backing out of the drive way. Other then that they are prefectly fine. So, I know that they are going... I guess.

I think that the rotors just get rusty over night and then I need to scrape that off.

Not sure

 

The dealership resurfaced my front rotors and changed out the brake pads a month ago. I had around 45k miles on the tC. Just call around different dealerships asking how much the brake service will cost. Mine was $207 total with parts and labor. Not bad at all.

 

Grinding brakes first thing in the morning is a sign of rust on the rotors from moisture in the air/rain, not wear. That's not something to worry about.

I have 35000 miles and I am thinking about replacing pads soon. But I am told that I am hard on brakes.

 

Let me just say this first. I have never really work on cars until recently.

My brakes don't grind and they feel perfectly fine 99.99% of the time. So I think that they are fine.

Really good (ceramic and cevlar) pads are like $100 for all four and it looks very very simle to relace them. A jack and a c clamp and some basic tools. I could be wrong but $200 and you have new shinny slotted rotors and new special pads. And it should only take maybe 15 20 minutes a tire.

I'll put what I did in here when i do it. But I think that I might wait awhile. They seem fine.

 

Wow... I replaced my brake pads at around 35K.

 

how long the pads last is all in your driving style and the split of highway/city driving you do. My tc is a 5-spd, so I tend to downshift and engine brake until engine rpms slow to about 2000-2500rpm in 3rd (often dropping into 2nd if I am about to take a corner), and I spend most of my time - at least 65-70% - on the highway. so far I have about 45k miles on my stock brakes, and they are still going strong.

note though that while I do religiously downshift, I always seek to revmatch so as to keep stress on the clutch at a minimum. if circumstances would prevent me from doing so, I use the brakes.

 

I tend not to use my brakes at all in the freeway. I usually leave a fat gap in front of me.

There's a couple times we go on the touges is when I use my brakes the most hardest and frequent. But aside from that it's probably bc I drive an auto.

 

What do you mean by "rematch"?


I just about always downshift.

 

Sounds like it is just rust from the rain or moisture in the air. Mine do that in the morning mostly after it rains. After a about a half mile they are back to normal. And you wouldn't need to do rotors unless you went through your pads...which I doubt.

 

^^^
"revmatch" not rematch lol

It's blipping the throttle to match engine rpm to reduce clutch wear.

 

I have it down to where I dont even have to blip on my downshifts... just keeping gas steady will rev the engine to the proper point by the time I release the clutch.

 

Sorry .... revmatch.

"blipping" -----> say what?

So let get this straight. When down shifting from say 4 to 3 you push in the clutch and before releasing it you apply the accelerator to match where the rpms were before applying the clutch? Then release the clutch?

Am I getting this right?

 

pretty much. the idea is to rev the engine to the rpm it would be at in the lower gear at the speed you are going. for instance, say in you're cruising at 70 in 5th gear - the engine should be at about 3250 rpm - and want to downshift to 4th. clutch in, blip (or in my case just maintain gas pedal pressure) throttle to raise rpm to about 4250rpm then release the clutch. simple. once you get the hang of it, you should be able to execute downshifts so smoothly that under most conditions the only way you can tell you have downshifted is the sound of the engine.