i was wondering about rattles you get with a stereo system in this car, i understand ull almost always get rattles with a system but is it really obnoxious or subtle.

im gonna be putting my current system in and i just want a general concept of wat kind of annoying noises to expect. i have 2 JL 10w0s and a JL 250/1 amp and its pushin out about 135.2 Db

 

my trunk rattles like a mother and i only have a kicker comp and kicker amp lol... like 150 watts rms, good luck with yer JLs yer gonna need dynamat

 

haha well thanks for the positive information

 

yea the tc seems to rattle alot as everyone complains about it but i love my car... inside the rattling cant be heard over loud bass... but outside its a different story, i mean it doesnt rattle really loud with my setup, if i roll down the windows the music overpowers the rattling, but i can only imagine with yer setup it will thump pretty hard. i wish i had some JLs

 

Mine does rattle...But it's completely unoticeable inside the car, and barely noticeable outside...Granted it does rattle, but barely...

I have 2x 12" subs...
each sub has its own 1200 watt amp...
each am has its own 1 farad capacitor...

 

those subs are pretty cheap...W0's are like the lowest line of JLs..good, but nothing to drool over

 

my car can hit a 135 no problem and it doesnt seem to rattle much i can feal my hair vibrate but cant realy hear ____ out side of my car but the highs

i have a kicker 1200.1 and a hifonics atlas sub 12"

 

Mine Doesnt Rattle when it bump..I mean I have 1 12' Infinity Sub with Rockford Amp..Its perfect..I hate too much bump..But mine hits hards and no rattle outside of the car..

 

You can barely hear mine over the two 12' subs from the inside but once you turn it up... from the outside the hatch (near the center brake light, behind the license plate) rattle like a biatch

 

I got 1 12" W6 in a non-ported fiberglass box in my car. no rattles, not even with the hatch open. outside there is just the license plate rattle. I have nothing to complain about ^_^

btw, if u look at my car on cardomain I used to have a 12" aluminum eclipse... well, let's say that one went BOOM!

 

i have 3 10" subs in a custom box and i have noticed a rattle from that piece of metal under the car that is between muffler and the car,

 

i have 2 image dynamic 12's with about 300 a side no rattle just the lic plate no biggie

 

no rattles at all, and I just switched my system to 2 12" MTX 9512-44, and a rockford fosgated 20001 bd amp, each sub is seeing alost 1200 watts RMS at 13.6 volts. But no rattles. I think its due to 213 sq. ft of road kill, and insulation.

 

well I got that dynamat licsence plate kit so it rattles a little in the trunk but Im dynamating the whole car in a month or so...

 

Did anyone bother to sound deaden there car before putting the subs in that will kill alot of the rattle.

Im not worred about a rattle im worried about my windows when I put 3krms to my 18" onix

 

i have 2 12" JLAudio 12W3 vers. 2's ... with a kenwood excelon 811D sub amp pushin 1000 watts RMS ... its very loud ... pushin enuf air to make the rear quarter panels flex and vibrate almost a quarter of an inch ... i have no idea the dB ... the trunk does rattle a bit when its up loud ... which is to be expected .. but nothin serious when at normal levels ... the lisence plate will always rattle if ya dont put any dynamat behind it ... same with any car ... this car is perfect for bass ... had to get a smaller enclosed sub box to fit under the rear cargo cover ... fits perfectly ... would never know its there ... the SPL is crazy ...

 

even if it does rattle you can hardly hear it on the inside...

 

As to your original question about rattles, vehicles were never designed to take this much energy being placed on there structure. Dampening material that is offered on the market is designed to change the resonant frequency of the panel that is rattling. If you have a panel that rattles adding strips to the panel’s changes the mass of the panel, this changes the resonant frequency eliminating the noise.

Lining a car from corner to corner will benefit lowering of the ambient noise level of the passenger compartment. This will offer a few advantages, lowering the internal ambient noise will allow you to reach a comfortable listening level at a lower volume level, less power and speakers are needed. Controlling the ambient noise in the passenger compartment will allow your speakers and amps to really shine. The reason one would not buy main stream equipment and ante up for higher end equipment with advanced engineering, rare earth materials that will allow you to bring out the warmth and depth of your music.

With power levels as high as some have mentioned, none of this will keep the car from rattling, you certainly will not be able to hear them. The most power I have competed with is 10K RMS (not peak, please), 20 batteries, 40 1 farad caps and 8 18” woofers. Dampening material does not stay on at this level and welds only hold for a month or so.

As to power amps, car electrical systems were designed to run the vehicle and standard accessories. You will find that the stock alternator charging capacity is out stripped with the basic 50 X 4 power amp. It is very likely that unless the alternator has been changed no amplifier will ever reach full power for more than a few minutes. You have a battery? The battery was only intended to start the vehicle, it was never designed to power the cars accessories. You have a Cap? If the alternator is not able to keep up with the amps, charge the battery, do you think it can charge the cap sufficiently? Probably not. Also remember that you own a vehicle that is controlled by a computer, fuel injectors, and an ignition system that ALL require voltage, Hmmm. Now I know why my car is a slug at the light and my gas mileage stinks.

Mobile audio has many variables, all I can offer “is begin with the end in mind” plan what you want and work backwards. Do not make it more difficult than it is and do not create overkill in one area.

I hope this helps,

 

Besides, all that weight slows you down. :twisted:

 

when i went to get my alarm, the alarm used to click everytime i opened the door and closed the door. i went back and he put some thick layer of rubber tape which made the click go away,he said that that rubber tape,im not sure if its called like that, is also used when he installs systems in cars to reduce the rattle of a system. maybe you guys can get some of that "rubber tape" to reduce the rattle if you know what im talking about.