yellowxhoodie's pic thread SOLD
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13,746
From: LOWLOW Chicago
i can open it, but not very far up.
im still working on something to clean the harness slots up real nice.
i was just gonna wrap the carpet but it wasnt long enough to wrap through and make it all the way underneath to get stapled and glued. the holes wouldve had to be about 2 inches bigger and i didnt want them that big.
im still working on something to clean the harness slots up real nice.
i was just gonna wrap the carpet but it wasnt long enough to wrap through and make it all the way underneath to get stapled and glued. the holes wouldve had to be about 2 inches bigger and i didnt want them that big.
Cory I dont know if this would help your situation with the seat belts at all. But what you could do is cut a T for each side of the harness into the wood. With the lines that are allready cut, make another one perpindicular to the edge of the plywood. That way you can slide the harnesses out of the top of the wood, then you could easily lift up the top portion. Just and idea I thought of and wanted to share it with you.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13,746
From: LOWLOW Chicago
Originally Posted by SCIONshane
Neither of you guys thought to cover up the rear cupholders? They look kinda retarded back there since there is no seat.
also ill prob still use the rear cup holders, i dont like having drinks up front, makes it harder to shift.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13,746
From: LOWLOW Chicago
and i also just realized, if you were to cover up that whole section, the top board would end up to far forward so youd have to make the piece in my pics that isnt carpeted yet extend all the way down to the floor instead of only halfway.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13,746
From: LOWLOW Chicago
well i originally took the rear seat out just so i didnt have to lug ppl around and drive everywhere. then i got my seats and harnesses so the rear seat wasnt really an option anyways.
its mainly just to cover up the ugly floor and make things look clean. ive always been a fan of function AND form.
and the wood is only 3/8 so its not really that heavy, if i were to measure everything id say i def. ended up loosing weight vs. adding more.
its mainly just to cover up the ugly floor and make things look clean. ive always been a fan of function AND form.
and the wood is only 3/8 so its not really that heavy, if i were to measure everything id say i def. ended up loosing weight vs. adding more.
that's cool man.... it does look nice.... just thought I'd ask... as for me though, if someone asked to sit in the back of my baby I'd tell them to go drive their own damn car LOL....
I do see some diff. versions of people using harness restraints though... some like yours and others utilizing a bar that looks like it attaches across at the C-Pillar. Any advantage of one over the other bro?
I do see some diff. versions of people using harness restraints though... some like yours and others utilizing a bar that looks like it attaches across at the C-Pillar. Any advantage of one over the other bro?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13,746
From: LOWLOW Chicago
yea, attaching it to a roll cage is actually your best bet. its all about the angle that its mounted. attaching it to a c-pillar bar is about the worst thing you can do, itll never hold up in the event of an accident.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13,746
From: LOWLOW Chicago
yea, check this out. this explains everything pretty well.
http://www.takataracingproducts.com/guide.html
http://www.takataracingproducts.com/guide.html
Menace.... if you're referring to the one that you can attach a harness to.... he was telling me that he thought they were not strong enough for that....but if it's a brace bar...that might be different
it's just for reducing chassis flex like the front and rear tower braces right? .... well toss in front and rear sways too... I've got those too.. lol... damn near zero body roll... those things are a great investment IMO







