camber issues with TRD springs...
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,267
From: Victorville, CA
so i recently installed TRD springs on my car, after doing research on the numerous types of springs available. i read some threads where all you need is to let the springs settle after two weeks and then get an alignment. after i let the springs settle for two weeks, i took it for an alignment and they could not get my car back up to spec. they were able to fix the toe and align the wheels, but the rear wheels are cambered in still. they said i will need new control arms in the rear to bring it back up to spec. im running TRD springs with 18 inch rims and 40 series tires. i wondered to myself why that is happening since im only running TRD springs and my friend is running S-Techs with no camber issues? does anyone knowledgeable know whats up with this? thanks in advance....
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,267
From: Victorville, CA
i went to this place here in town called tire pros. i was charged 125 for the alignment, so i expected a good alignment. i should have just taken it to toyota since it was 5 dollars more there. also the rear wheels are almost tucked in and the front has almost a 3 finger gap...
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,267
From: Victorville, CA
well i noticed the camber issue when i first got my wheels installed. i noticed the left-rear side was cambered in more than the right-rear side. after the springs were installed, the negative camber was even more noticeable. another thing, the TRD springs did not give me an even drop. im way lower in the back and from looks almost stock height. i should have just installed the H-techs i have sitting in my room.
somehtings funky in funk town. No way should th eback be tucked (unless you are loadedwith cargo) and the front be high.
Who did the install?
Sounds to me like it's time for the tools to come out and the wheels to come off and have it redone.
I have the full TRD drop on mine and have about a 1.5 finger gap all around.
Who did the install?
Sounds to me like it's time for the tools to come out and the wheels to come off and have it redone.
I have the full TRD drop on mine and have about a 1.5 finger gap all around.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,267
From: Victorville, CA
yes, the springs were purchased brand new from TRD blowout thread from Longo Toyota. the install was done by andino and another scionlife member who do so cal installs. here are some pics to show you guys what im talking about.
heres the car 5 days after the springs were installed:

this is the front with fingers in wheel well:


now, this is the rear with the finger:


and this is the negative camber i have in the rear only:

sorry for the cell phone pics. i dont have a digi cam...
heres the car 5 days after the springs were installed:

this is the front with fingers in wheel well:


now, this is the rear with the finger:


and this is the negative camber i have in the rear only:

sorry for the cell phone pics. i dont have a digi cam...
The rear appears lower if you go by fender gap because of the way the fenders are cut out. The drop is right for the cars handling. Could be a tad lower, but more than 1.4" is too much handling wise, and mine settled to about 1.3 I think from stock.
There is no way they cant get it aligned right if they know what they are doing.
And I would leave some camber. I run -2 in back and -1.75 in front for handling purposes. The tires will be fine that way as long as toe is set somewhat normally.
There is no way they cant get it aligned right if they know what they are doing.
And I would leave some camber. I run -2 in back and -1.75 in front for handling purposes. The tires will be fine that way as long as toe is set somewhat normally.
i have s-techs and im in need of a camber/alignment check up lol... after like 4-5 months my fronts were toast... oh and dont go to the local dealer and buy the 99.99 dollar tires they try and get you to buy... hahaha shut up i was in a hurry everyone lol
It's quite likely that crash bolts... aka " progress alignment kit" ... are necessary to get your alignment back in spec.
It may be that dealerships use them anyway when aligning TRD dropped vehicles... but, irrespective, I purchased a set of these and brought them with me. According to the tech that did it, my camber specifications were very easy.
It may be that dealerships use them anyway when aligning TRD dropped vehicles... but, irrespective, I purchased a set of these and brought them with me. According to the tech that did it, my camber specifications were very easy.
When changing the front camber to negative this year, I had to use crash, aka ingalls cam bolts, to get -1.75. In other words, I could only get a max of about -0.6 with the stock lower strut bolts on TRD springs. So they didnt need any cam bolts to get it in spec originally. I have another set (for the top two holes) of ingalls bolts I would have to use to get -2 or more up front.
The rear have been on about -2 since the TRD springs were installed approx 40,000 miles ago.
The rear have been on about -2 since the TRD springs were installed approx 40,000 miles ago.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,267
From: Victorville, CA
so my left rear wheel is at -2.1 and my right rear wheel is at -1.7. the toe is preety much dead on. its just off by a a 10th of a degree. now my question is, if i get the camber fixed with the control arms that i need, will it raise the car in the rear? since the wheels are sagged inward the car is sitting lower. with the wheels straight will it lift the car a bit?
Originally Posted by Mos_Def
so my left rear wheel is at -2.1 and my right rear wheel is at -1.7. the toe is preety much dead on. its just off by a a 10th of a degree. now my question is, if i get the camber fixed with the control arms that i need, will it raise the car in the rear? since the wheels are sagged inward the car is sitting lower. with the wheels straight will it lift the car a bit?
The control arms are a very expensive solution, and will likely make very little difference.
Adjusting your camber within typical limits does not affect ride height to a visually detectable degree. If you take it to the extreme, 15 degrees of negative or positive camber might net you a millimeter or two of additional height. I'd have to make the triangles to be sure.
To be honest, my mechanic was able to get identical camber on both sides. Such a disparity wouldn't usually be allowed out of the shop, unless the customer specified it in writing. It sounds more like a lazy mechanic than a technical issue.
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