Dan Gardner Custom Sway Bar is now available thru Dezod Motorsports
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,731
From: Minneapolis, MN
I dont get why people are so hell bent on the color, removing the logo etc. You CANT SEE THE BAR UNDER THE CAR. Go look for your stock sway and see how much of it you see without lying under the car.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 149
From: Tampa
Hey dan can you repost the pictures of the endlinks from 2 pages ago, they aren't showing up anymore. I'm gonna install tomorrow hopefully. Thanks!
EDIT: Nvm I found it in an earlier post
EDIT: Nvm I found it in an earlier post
Last edited by Jtc; Apr 30, 2010 at 08:17 PM.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 628
From: SoCal
Here you go:
Go here:
http://gallery.aboutgardner.com/gallery/album20
Spacer b/w bar ear and spherical: 7/8 inch
Spacer b/w control arm bracket and spherical: 3/8 inch
Spacer b/w other side of spherical and washer: 3/16 inch
Upper bolt: 2 ¾ inches
Lower bolt: 2 ¼ inches
4 washers per bar side, 2 nylon lock nuts per side. 14 mm nuts and bolts.
Go here:
http://gallery.aboutgardner.com/gallery/album20
Spacer b/w bar ear and spherical: 7/8 inch
Spacer b/w control arm bracket and spherical: 3/8 inch
Spacer b/w other side of spherical and washer: 3/16 inch
Upper bolt: 2 ¾ inches
Lower bolt: 2 ¼ inches
4 washers per bar side, 2 nylon lock nuts per side. 14 mm nuts and bolts.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 29
From: Chicago, IL
Just finished installing mine today, and it feels great. I have it on the medium setting, but I might end up switching it to the softest eventually. We'll see how it ends up feeling over the next couple weeks.
Thought I'd post some of my pics. My suspension is pretty colorful now too!
Sway Bar comparison
My Agency Power cat back makes it even MORE colorful down there!
I kinda wanted to stick the decal on the sway bar, but thought that this placement was a little bit better.
Thanks Dezod and Dan!
Thought I'd post some of my pics. My suspension is pretty colorful now too!
Sway Bar comparison
My Agency Power cat back makes it even MORE colorful down there!
I kinda wanted to stick the decal on the sway bar, but thought that this placement was a little bit better.
Thanks Dezod and Dan!
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 637
From: Germantown, MD
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 628
From: SoCal
DG-Spec Install Tip!
When adjusting the length of your endlinks and centering out the ***** in the heims, keep the wheels on the car. Jack up the rear end, place the tires on Rhino Ramps, and THEN adjust. This prevents the suspension from going into bind under bump travel, as you have now set the base position while at static ride height.
If the car is jacked up in the air, the suspension is at full droop. This is NOT the preferred method for adjustment.
When adjusting the length of your endlinks and centering out the ***** in the heims, keep the wheels on the car. Jack up the rear end, place the tires on Rhino Ramps, and THEN adjust. This prevents the suspension from going into bind under bump travel, as you have now set the base position while at static ride height.
If the car is jacked up in the air, the suspension is at full droop. This is NOT the preferred method for adjustment.
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,731
From: Minneapolis, MN
put mine one this afternoon and took it for a shakedown cruise.
Set it on the middle setting, especially since I will be autoxing next weekend. Feels pretty good so far. I can tell from some test corners that it definitely wants to rotate more. Will help a bunch in the tight corners, but will make you pay for not being smooth for sure on the course.
Fit and finish seems pretty good except for one item. The stops on the bar do have some contact with the mount points on the car. Those could be set in approx 1/16 (maybe less) more and the brackets could be a tad wider (or the holes offset a tad) to push them inward toward the center. This would eliminate the contact. It really is very minor contact and the bar does not bind at all when fully tight, so I dont think it is a big issue. Mainly will end up taking the paint off that part of the stop (may even just be some extra thick powder coat in that area) and possibly allow some rust there. Will keep an eye on that part.
Overall, happy with it for as much as I have tried it. The real test will be our first two events next weeken
Set it on the middle setting, especially since I will be autoxing next weekend. Feels pretty good so far. I can tell from some test corners that it definitely wants to rotate more. Will help a bunch in the tight corners, but will make you pay for not being smooth for sure on the course.
Fit and finish seems pretty good except for one item. The stops on the bar do have some contact with the mount points on the car. Those could be set in approx 1/16 (maybe less) more and the brackets could be a tad wider (or the holes offset a tad) to push them inward toward the center. This would eliminate the contact. It really is very minor contact and the bar does not bind at all when fully tight, so I dont think it is a big issue. Mainly will end up taking the paint off that part of the stop (may even just be some extra thick powder coat in that area) and possibly allow some rust there. Will keep an eye on that part.
Overall, happy with it for as much as I have tried it. The real test will be our first two events next weeken
Senior Member
Fail, INC
teamNJCT
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,068
From: Connecticut
DG-Spec Install Tip!
When adjusting the length of your endlinks and centering out the ***** in the heims, keep the wheels on the car. Jack up the rear end, place the tires on Rhino Ramps, and THEN adjust. This prevents the suspension from going into bind under bump travel, as you have now set the base position while at static ride height.
If the car is jacked up in the air, the suspension is at full droop. This is NOT the preferred method for adjustment.
When adjusting the length of your endlinks and centering out the ***** in the heims, keep the wheels on the car. Jack up the rear end, place the tires on Rhino Ramps, and THEN adjust. This prevents the suspension from going into bind under bump travel, as you have now set the base position while at static ride height.
If the car is jacked up in the air, the suspension is at full droop. This is NOT the preferred method for adjustment.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 628
From: SoCal
Do you mean how far down the heim is on the stud? If that is the question, it's a matter of many things including your specific ride height and the hole you have them going into on the bar ears. Don't worry about length, just make sure the bar is clocked so it's not touching anything, and that you have the ***** about centered in the heims after you torque the lock nuts down. You're looking for the "straightest shot" possible.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 628
From: SoCal
Fit and finish seems pretty good except for one item. The stops on the bar do have some contact with the mount points on the car. Those could be set in approx 1/16 (maybe less) more and the brackets could be a tad wider (or the holes offset a tad) to push them inward toward the center. This would eliminate the contact. It really is very minor contact and the bar does not bind at all when fully tight, so I dont think it is a big issue. Mainly will end up taking the paint off that part of the stop (may even just be some extra thick powder coat in that area) and possibly allow some rust there. Will keep an eye on that part.
Not quite sure what you mean here. Shoot a pic, and we'll be glad to take a peek.
