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Scion tC 1G Suspension & Handling Coilovers, Shocks, Airbags, Swaybars...

Dan Gardner Custom Sway Bar is now available thru Dezod Motorsports

Old Jul 13, 2010 | 07:04 AM
  #641  
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yes
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 05:10 PM
  #642  
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so that means we are basically pre loading the bar then? everything just totally made more since right there. haha
Old Jul 14, 2010 | 11:57 PM
  #643  
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The main point is that you want zero preload on the bar with the weight of the car sitting on the suspension. The only way to do that reliably is to set the length of the links with the car sitting on the wheels. And you really should have it sitting on the wheels on a level surface or you still have some amount of preload. You can get away with doing it on a fairly level surface, sitting on ramps.

I used a string and level along with some scraps of plywood under the tires where needed to level the car. I then was able to lie down and reach under the car to set the endlink lengths.
Old Jul 15, 2010 | 01:23 AM
  #644  
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well i think my car is up high enough to just reach under but i think i could move the bar up a little bit so its more parallel with the ground
Old Jul 15, 2010 | 02:53 AM
  #645  
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Has anyone else noticed the bar rubbing the bracket the endlinks mount to? I checked my bar the other day to make sure all was good and saw a spot where the paint had been worn off the bar. I moved the endlinks out a little more to get the bar higher but I think it is still making contact under hard cornering. I'd move the endlinks out more but I don't like to have less than the thickness of the threaded rod in the heim joint. I'll try and get a picture up in a few.

Here we go:





Last edited by tCb00b; Jul 15, 2010 at 03:08 AM. Reason: Added photos.
Old Jul 15, 2010 | 03:06 AM
  #646  
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That is the control arm. The links just need to be adjusted longer.
Old Jul 15, 2010 | 03:10 AM
  #647  
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I'll see how much further I can go tomorrow. How far out do you think the links can be positioned before they are a hazard?

Edit:
The website says over 4.25", I'll bust out the dial caliper when I adjust them.

Last edited by tCb00b; Jul 15, 2010 at 03:28 AM. Reason: Found answer.
Old Jul 15, 2010 | 03:42 AM
  #648  
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^I had the same rubbing problem when I had it on the softest setting. Just adjusted to the middle setting, and no more rubbing
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 02:10 PM
  #649  
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very little rubbing for me...but it is making all kins of popping noises....lube for the bushings!
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 07:25 PM
  #650  
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you have to completely tighten everything on the endlink. Actually everything in general that is connected to the bar. I notice I had a popping noise coming from my right side, went back down, re-tighten everything, and now its fine. I have grown use to the squeaks. Tried to re-lube everything, work fine for the first few hours and then back to noise noise noise...so yea.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 03:54 AM
  #651  
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Def too much for me as a DD. It's no doubt a great sway bar to run, but it's too much noise and way too stiff when i'm just trying to cruise around town

been giving it some thought for the last week or two and i'm mostly likely going back to the TRD route. not going to sell this sway bar but just save it for special occasions.
Old Jul 20, 2010 | 08:01 AM
  #652  
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Got the lube in the bushings, Tightened everything down, still some noise...not like a 'only i notice it cause its my car noise' but a noise that other people notice >_> Is it ok to go past the torque recommendations without damaging anything? Or are the brackets around the bushings too tight and causing it to do this?
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:46 AM
  #653  
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Originally Posted by engifineer
Like people have already stated. These are poly bushings. They WILL squeak to some degree no matter what. Doesnt matter how good the lube is. You may get rid of most of it for a while, but you will still have some squeak. Welcome to the world of track equipment ;)
Originally Posted by engifineer
As Paul stated, these are poly bushings. If you lube them well, you should be able to get rid of most squeaking. However, there will be some creaking now and then. Cool mornings, or when you are just backing the car up easy and stop, will make these come out. During most driving you should be fine if you keep them lubed. You will also probably need to lube them every so often to deal with this
Originally Posted by paul_dezod
These are POLY bushings on the bar. Poly = squeaks and creeks. That is the problem with running poly on the street. A white lithium grease would work well to help stop the noises. Other than that, that is the sacrifice you make for better performance.

Been answered in this thread already.

And over-tightening will potentially cause failure of the hardware.
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 04:05 AM
  #654  
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Originally Posted by engifineer
Been answered in this thread already.

And over-tightening will potentially cause failure of the hardware.
I thought everyone knew to never over torque their nuts.
(Couldn't help myself)
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 05:33 PM
  #655  
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anyone wanna sell me their stock endlinks for cheap i need a set asap
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 06:14 PM
  #656  
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For those having issues with the squeaking did you use the lube that came in the hardware kit? And if so did you lube up the bar and the inside of the bushings?
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #657  
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Hmm...No noise for me yet. *knocks on wood*
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 08:09 PM
  #658  
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i used every drop of lube. it was still noisy so i was gonna get some of that lithium grease, but before i could, one of my bushings and brackets were completely destroyed... gonna order universal brackets and ES 25mm bushings, when i have some spare change...
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 08:12 PM
  #659  
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Originally Posted by DezodDon
For those having issues with the squeaking did you use the lube that came in the hardware kit? And if so did you lube up the bar and the inside of the bushings?
yes
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 10:22 PM
  #660  
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Originally Posted by davedavetC
anyone wanna sell me their stock endlinks for cheap i need a set asap

Pleaseeeee lol

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