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Shaking at 65+

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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 01:24 AM
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Default Shaking at 65+

Hey there. I'm running Tein Basic coilovers on 19's with 101k miles. Yesterday I replaced my pads and rotors on my tC. Now when I'm doing 65 or above my steering wheel and car shakes like crazy. Anything below that my car is fine! Before I changed rotors there was a slight shake but nothing like now! I'm heading out of state in a couple of weeks and I deffinately wouldn't take my car driving like it is now. Any ideas??
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 02:44 AM
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Steering wheel shakes? Hmm hopefully its something minor, did you torque your lugnuts down properly? Loose lugs will cause your steering wheel to shake.
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 03:02 AM
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Yes I did. That was the first thing I checked. Any other ideas?
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 03:07 AM
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Check your steering bushings and the balance on your wheels.
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 04:27 AM
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Sounds like wheel balance problem.
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by tc_rida
Hey there. I'm running Tein Basic coilovers on 19's with 101k miles. Yesterday I replaced my pads and rotors on my tC. Now when I'm doing 65 or above my steering wheel and car shakes like crazy. Anything below that my car is fine! Before I changed rotors there was a slight shake but nothing like now! I'm heading out of state in a couple of weeks and I deffinately wouldn't take my car driving like it is now. Any ideas??
yes, you should get a run-out dial gauge and measure the run-out of the rotors you installed. there can be a slight wobble if the rotor isn't perfect (they never are). You measure the run-out and when it's too high, move the rotor one lug and keep going til you have run-out lower than the limit 0.01inch i believe is the spec.

Harbor Freight has a nice run-out gauge and holder (to keep in place) for like $20-25 total. A steal compared to how much these are elsewhere.

If you're wondering why it's vibrating is because the rotor is a rotating mass, when you're moving it's spinning just like the tire is. So you can easily mistake a tire balance issue for a rotor run-out imbalance.
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 02:01 PM
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Check your rims to see if they still have there counter weights on. That is most likely the problem
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 06:52 PM
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i have the exact same problem except the steering wheel shakes violently above 75. im still trying to figure out what is causing it as I recently only switched back to my stock midpipe and bought a used tire for the blow out i had on my front driver side wheel.
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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I talked to the people at the parts store and they said sometimes the rotors will come in and be off balance. They are going to trade me rotors and see of that fixes my problem. The weights on my wheels are still there so I know that's not the problem. Would tires almost at the wear marks make a difference??
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by tc_rida
I talked to the people at the parts store and they said sometimes the rotors will come in and be off balance. They are going to trade me rotors and see of that fixes my problem. The weights on my wheels are still there so I know that's not the problem. Would tires almost at the wear marks make a difference??
I'm glad they are going to exchange the rotors but you have to check the run-out when installing to get the lowest run-out measurement. That results in the smoothest ride. It's standard practice when installing rotors to check the run-out.

and yeah i didn't think it was your wheels either, you didn't have this BEFORE you put the new rotors on. Tires at the wear marks if worn evenly shouldn't cause vibration. but you should replace them to be safe on the road.

like i was saying you only had this vibration AFTER you put the new rotors on. Only makes logical sense that's the issue.

What brand of rotors are these that you purchased?
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 01:59 AM
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i have the same problem, but don't know what socket to use to tighten the rotor...i was thinking a 23mm deep well, or a 22mm deep well, but im not sure, because my socket set only goes up to 21mm.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by sciontc_mich
Harbor Freight has a nice run-out gauge and holder (to keep in place) for like $20-25 total. A steal compared to how much these are elsewhere.
I have this problem after getting rotors resurfaced. I looked for this gauge on their website and can't find it?
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by pinoyFMtC
I have this problem after getting rotors resurfaced. I looked for this gauge on their website and can't find it?
sure no problem. they have it listed as a "Travel Machinist Dial Indicator". It's probably why you couldn't find it. here's the link for the gauge.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-...cator-623.html

and the base to attach it is here
http://www.harborfreight.com/multipo...ment-5645.html
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 06:38 AM
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^Awesome, thanks!
Old Jul 15, 2010 | 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by pinoyFMtC
^Awesome, thanks!
^^ glad to help
Old Jul 24, 2010 | 04:28 AM
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It's been a while since I've been able to get back on here. I got a different set of rotors and it helped a little but there was still some shaking. I took my car to a tire shop where they found my wheels were slightly out of balance. No more shaking for me!!
Old Aug 4, 2010 | 12:16 AM
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Wheel balance, alignment (unlikely) ... It cannot be brakes because you're not touching the brakes. It will only shake (warped rotors) if you step on the brakes...

I would say steering bushings... Probably needs to be replaced. Check the bushings, racks, and what not...

my mr2 shook at 50-60mph ... anything over and below that it would stop. My bushings were asking to be replaced.
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