Some Wilwood Custom BBK fun
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 214
From: Austin, TX
Some Wilwood Custom BBK fun
Updates will be posted as progress occurs. 
Basically this will be a discussion and also possibly a write up (assuming all goes well) on how you can fill up those big fancy wheels with a larger rotor, without breaking the bank. So far the plan goes as follows.
Im planning on doing this only for the front.
Use factory front calipers, mount them out further from the hub using a custom aluminum bracket (which should also get rid of the offset issues of the pieced together rotors) and to top it all off, the meat, 12.19in vented 2pc rotors from wilwood (didnt get slotted or drilled as I wanted it as simple as possible this first time around). Just picked up the rotors from UPS today, and plan on doing initial mounting tomorrow to figure out what size of aluminum block to order for the caliper spacers. More pictures with more progress, but for now, heres a teaser.
DAY 1
For the rest of the brakejob I've got EBC USR slotted rear rotors, Techna Fit Stainless lines, Wilwood 570 Dot3 fluid, and EBC Yellowstuffs all the way around. Should be fun.
DAY 2
Assembled rotors, torqued hat bolts to 15ft/lb, pulled old rotors, and began taking measurements for my relocation bracket. Ordered some aluminum plate to fab into brackets (hopefully will be here near middle of week), and most importantly, as these hubs are really intended for subaru applications (who knew they did more motorsports stuff than us?
jk) I made some hubcentric rings out of 1/32 aluminum sheet to make sure they align properly on our hubs.
More detailed pics will be posted once i get the aluminum plate in and get to mounting these for real, but for now, heres some more eye candy and some pics of the rest of the stuff going into this brakejob.
Horribly messy garage. Wilwood 570, EBC USR slotted rotors for rear, new wilwoods for the front, mounting HW, SS lines, and yellowstuffs.
Sorry for the blurr, it was cold. third time its snowed in north texas this year. Yellowstuffs and lines.
NEW ROTORS! (if you chose to order some, dont forget the mounting hardware, the hat bolts do not come with hats or rotors) Ill get the hat bolt specs on here later.
Wilwood 570. Dot3, cheap, and works great, high wet boiling pt. too.
Poor old rotors just not doing my wheels or my brake pedal any justice.
Pulling old rotors... First, take wheel off, loosen 2 17mm bolts holding calipers to hubs. Be sure to have somewhere to set the caliper so as not to put strain on the brake hose.
Taking off front rotors. If theyre rusted to the hub (my pass side was, drivers wasnt) just take a (will find specs on bolt soon) bolt and tighten it through the rotor advancing 5 turns per hole (alternate between the two) till the rotor comes free.
Step 1 of building rotors, make sure to install hat and rotors as such, w/ the hat mounting to the recessed side of the rotor.
Rotor and hat combo flipped over to install Hat bolts.
Hat bolts installed, torque in a star pattern to 180in/lbs (15 ft/lbs)
Compare old rotors to new, feel good about life.
And a prelim mount, to measure for relocation brackets and hibcentric rings (OEM hubs are 2.1625in i believe, rotor hats are for subaru applications so hub hole is 2.29in. took me 2 rings of 1/32 aluminum sheet to properly fit the hub diameter and back of rotor taper, one was 3/16 in wide, then i made a second one 1/8 in wide ontop of it. torqued rotor down and checked with a run-out meter, perfect as can be =))
TYLER KASS
Basically this will be a discussion and also possibly a write up (assuming all goes well) on how you can fill up those big fancy wheels with a larger rotor, without breaking the bank. So far the plan goes as follows.
Im planning on doing this only for the front.
Use factory front calipers, mount them out further from the hub using a custom aluminum bracket (which should also get rid of the offset issues of the pieced together rotors) and to top it all off, the meat, 12.19in vented 2pc rotors from wilwood (didnt get slotted or drilled as I wanted it as simple as possible this first time around). Just picked up the rotors from UPS today, and plan on doing initial mounting tomorrow to figure out what size of aluminum block to order for the caliper spacers. More pictures with more progress, but for now, heres a teaser.
DAY 1
For the rest of the brakejob I've got EBC USR slotted rear rotors, Techna Fit Stainless lines, Wilwood 570 Dot3 fluid, and EBC Yellowstuffs all the way around. Should be fun.
DAY 2
Assembled rotors, torqued hat bolts to 15ft/lb, pulled old rotors, and began taking measurements for my relocation bracket. Ordered some aluminum plate to fab into brackets (hopefully will be here near middle of week), and most importantly, as these hubs are really intended for subaru applications (who knew they did more motorsports stuff than us?
jk) I made some hubcentric rings out of 1/32 aluminum sheet to make sure they align properly on our hubs.More detailed pics will be posted once i get the aluminum plate in and get to mounting these for real, but for now, heres some more eye candy and some pics of the rest of the stuff going into this brakejob.
Horribly messy garage. Wilwood 570, EBC USR slotted rotors for rear, new wilwoods for the front, mounting HW, SS lines, and yellowstuffs.
Sorry for the blurr, it was cold. third time its snowed in north texas this year. Yellowstuffs and lines.
NEW ROTORS! (if you chose to order some, dont forget the mounting hardware, the hat bolts do not come with hats or rotors) Ill get the hat bolt specs on here later.
Wilwood 570. Dot3, cheap, and works great, high wet boiling pt. too.
Poor old rotors just not doing my wheels or my brake pedal any justice.
Pulling old rotors... First, take wheel off, loosen 2 17mm bolts holding calipers to hubs. Be sure to have somewhere to set the caliper so as not to put strain on the brake hose.
Taking off front rotors. If theyre rusted to the hub (my pass side was, drivers wasnt) just take a (will find specs on bolt soon) bolt and tighten it through the rotor advancing 5 turns per hole (alternate between the two) till the rotor comes free.
Step 1 of building rotors, make sure to install hat and rotors as such, w/ the hat mounting to the recessed side of the rotor.
Rotor and hat combo flipped over to install Hat bolts.
Hat bolts installed, torque in a star pattern to 180in/lbs (15 ft/lbs)
Compare old rotors to new, feel good about life.
And a prelim mount, to measure for relocation brackets and hibcentric rings (OEM hubs are 2.1625in i believe, rotor hats are for subaru applications so hub hole is 2.29in. took me 2 rings of 1/32 aluminum sheet to properly fit the hub diameter and back of rotor taper, one was 3/16 in wide, then i made a second one 1/8 in wide ontop of it. torqued rotor down and checked with a run-out meter, perfect as can be =))TYLER KASS
Last edited by TJKASS; Dec 30, 2009 at 02:21 AM.
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Team ScionEyed
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Posts: 5,715
From: Mayami
well a BBK is a show piece regardless, so people want to see the big caliper with the different brand names on em, other than that you could just get an upgraded rotor kit and not pay a premium price because of the "Wilwood" name on the rotor.
Either way, I'm watching.
Either way, I'm watching.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 214
From: Austin, TX
Actually im doing this from a performance standpoint as on trackdays Ive consistently managed to fade the stock front rotors with my current axxis pads multiple times as I tend to trail brake to help rotate this car mid corner. (no the fluid isnt an issue, i was on Motul RBF 600 then) plus with an even more aggressive pad like the yellowstuffs I fear ill experience more of the same. The looks are part of it but consistent braking 105-30 is what im after. If these bigger rotors dont cut it ive already got plans drawn out for ducting as well. But im holding faith that theyll do the job. 
As far as a bigger caliper, these factory ones have just as much meat and carry almost as big of a pad as any of the 4 or 6 piston ones so theyll work just fine for me.
As far as a bigger caliper, these factory ones have just as much meat and carry almost as big of a pad as any of the 4 or 6 piston ones so theyll work just fine for me.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Austin, TX
Oh yeah, and in regard to the price, the hat (interior part of the 2 part rotor) is a one time investment, and the rotors can be bought new for 35-240 a side depending on if you want plain, drilled, slotted etc. so far, ive spent ~340 on the pair of hats and rotors, and i know ill be under 400 by the time im done (ill make my own relocation brackets). Considering the only alternative (now not an option tho as theyve stopped production) was the powerslot plus kit which did the exact same thing but with non-standard PS rotors and hats for ~550, i think this is a hell of a deal from a performance standpoint.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 214
From: Austin, TX
For the moment im just gonna use the EBC Yellowstuffs (close enough to a full race compound IMHO) but, if they just dont cut it for me, im planning on picking up some hawk HT10 that will be put on for track days and ill just keep the yellowstuffs for street. Now outside to try mounting and see if i need a small hubcentric ring for this hat.
TYLER KASS
TYLER KASS
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Austin, TX
FINISHED! theyre being broken in now. Once im sure theyre good to go and performing their best ill give a full review on them. For now though I can say the pedal is much more predictable instead of the old on/off feel that it had before, and I can no longer bottom out the pedal with car on or off now, something I used to be able to do with the stock brakes.
Teaser.
and
My new BC cams come in tomorrow! woot!
Teaser.
and
My new BC cams come in tomorrow! woot!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 214
From: Austin, TX
They look even larger from further away and complement the wheels perfectly. And so far there has been a noticeable difference in braking ability. For the same amount of brake pedal pressure, the car decelerates much faster. Just waiting for the coating to burn off the pads.
