suspension upgrades
#2
Strut bars do nothing, you can sell those and get money for something worth a darn. You can also corner balance the car to get the most out of the coils. Also, get the other sway bar you don't have. Wheels/tire combo can be considered suspension and well worth it. And maybe bushings.
#3
Strut bars do nothing, you can sell those and get money for something worth a darn. You can also corner balance the car to get the most out of the coils. Also, get the other sway bar you don't have. Wheels/tire combo can be considered suspension and well worth it. And maybe bushings.
Coilovers, front and rear sway bars, front and rear (Dezod) endlinks, control arms, Ingalls 4-point rear strut brace, DC sports front strut brace, Energy Suspension polyurethane engine mount bushings, Energy Suspension polyurethane subframe bushings, Megan C-pillar bar, Ingalls ETD.
This about the best you can do suspension-wise. At this point you can still improve handling a little more by shedding weight off the car, and lowering the center of gravity.
Delete the spare tire/jack, delete the back seat. Get a battery relocation kit to the trunk to better balance the weight distribution of the car.
Get carbon fiber everything: VIS cf hood, VIS cf hatch, Kaminari cf roof, Seibon cf fenders, Seibon cf doors.
Now obviously, we are talking about a few thousand dollars here in upgrades...not saying this is for everyone, I just wanted to put together a complete list of what it would take to absolutely maximize the handling of the car.
#5
I agree 100%. If you are going to make the most of the suspension upgrades, gotta have sticky tires, as well as wheels with decent width to get a big enough contact patch. The stock rims are 17"x7" which simply dont cut it. When I upgraded to my 18x8 Enkei RPF1's with an R-compound tire, it was like driving an entirely different car. No more going into a corner and being afraid of the hideous bus-like understeer that the stock tc is guilty of. For a car that sees a lot of track time, I would say you want to go with 17x8's, or maybe even 17x9's. Or if you are like me and have plans for a big brake kit, go with 18x8's or 18x8.5's.
Last edited by ColonelSanders85; 11-15-2011 at 08:06 PM. Reason: spelling
#7
+1 better tires.
Struts and other chassis braces are fairly useless in all but the most extreme applications for our cars. Here's why(page 10):http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/2005...005tC_tech.pdf
You have (hopefully) adjustable coilovers. Learn what the adjustments do and tune your suspension(actually tune, don't just throw parts at it). In order to improve handling you need to know what suspension changes do or you might end up with handling that's worse than stock. Get it corner balanced. Best mod: reading a vehicle dynamics textbook.
Struts and other chassis braces are fairly useless in all but the most extreme applications for our cars. Here's why(page 10):http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/2005...005tC_tech.pdf
You have (hopefully) adjustable coilovers. Learn what the adjustments do and tune your suspension(actually tune, don't just throw parts at it). In order to improve handling you need to know what suspension changes do or you might end up with handling that's worse than stock. Get it corner balanced. Best mod: reading a vehicle dynamics textbook.
#8
Colonel, I'm glad you disagree and all, but strut bars on these cars do nothing more then make the butt dyno feel "tighter." The most rigid part of a uniframe car is the firewall, mounted to the tC's firewall is the strut towers. Putting a hollow bar that bolts onto the strut bolts does NOTHING to the car.
#9
^lol
So true.
Depending on what brand coilovers you have, get some that actually work. Besides that, tires, and if your road racing, a cage can stiffen up the chassis and make the car more safe.
So true.
Depending on what brand coilovers you have, get some that actually work. Besides that, tires, and if your road racing, a cage can stiffen up the chassis and make the car more safe.
#12
@ ColonelSanders85, what kind of racing do you do where stock rims just won't cut it? Is what ever class or level you run in so competitive that you just 'have to have' a $1200 set of rims to save 16lbs of unsprung weight? Lets be honest here, most people, even some of those who race competitive will not notice the difference between a set of high performance rims and stocker with quality tires. Those that actually will be at a level that they will know what they need and won't come here asking very vague questions. They will have a game plan and any questions will be very specific towards their stated goal.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
anti_virus347
PPC: Misc and Lots
1
05-28-2015 06:01 AM
anti_virus347
PPC: Engine / Drivetrain
8
04-03-2015 05:17 PM
carid
Exclusive Sponsored Sales
0
02-12-2015 11:54 AM
ScionVan
Scion xA/xB 1st-Gen Suspension & Handling
11
12-02-2003 09:37 PM