Tshock

iTrader: (2)

I am lowered on FF Type II coils. The stock rear camber will not adjust to get my car to a tame setting. It has negative camber (YUCK) and destroyed my tires (nasty cupping and crazy flat spots, looks like I have been ebrake sliding).
I increased my springs preload to compensate for the cupping, but the camber wear needs to be addressed asap. I already need tires and plan on having it realigned with a rear camber kit.

My first option is the Hotchkis, it looks like a respectable part. But it only allows for 0 to -3 adjustment for lowered vehicles... Why the hell would anyone with a lowered car need to subtract more camber? My current stance NEEDS MORE camber to get me closer to the stock spec.
"When you lower on your 05-10 Scion tC you might need to adjust the rear camber settings for improved performance and consistent tire wear. The Hotchkis rear camber arms for the tC include greasable polygraphite bushings for quiet operation and have a double adjustable design for customizable camber settings. Sold as a pair for the rear wheels only"
If anyone can verify this I would greatly appreciate it.

I did read that progress adjustable upper control/camber arms allow for 0 to +2 adjustment, thus pushing my camber back to where a daily driver needs to be. Can anyone with a higher level of understanding and possibly been in my shoes please chime in before I start throwing money at it again??

thanks in advance

Drey

iTrader: (4)

Cant go wrong with Hotchkis. They are fully adjustable, I got -10* out of them and i'm sure they can put you back to 0 or -1*. All the other ones just add 2* of positive camber to factory settings. Just keep in mind, when both arms are maxed out in either direction, there will be 1 degree difference between pass. and driver sides. Have you done the alignment yet, because honestly it sounds like toe in/out is off?

Tshock

iTrader: (2)

I would only benefit from posotive camber. Anything is better than the current stock rear arms.The stock rear tie rods appear to have enough threads left on either side to allow adjustment. I will look for my alignment sheet to see what it was set at previously.
Good point I hope it was set properly!

Lil_Deuce_tCoupe

iTrader: (9)

You don't want positive camber. I think you are misinterpreting the Hotchkis spec - it allows for adjustment from 0° to -3°. At 0°, the tire is essentially perpendicular to the ground, like this; U. The maximum amount of tire tread contacts the ground.
You want some negative camber, as this allows the maximum amount of tire tread to contact the ground when turning. Race cars have a lot of negative camber, for that reason - max tread contact at high speed, when turning. The Hotchkis arms are 'performance' parts, and allow you to dial in a lot of negative camber if desired, for a performance application - that much camber is not necessary on a daily driver.

You have too much negative camber from lowering, and need to get back closer to 0°. Yes, you need to increase your camber from negative, in the positive direction; but you do not want to be positive greater than 0°.
Besides, you'd likely rub on the inside of the fender if > 0°, depending on your wheel & tire setup, and how low you are. Some guys need a lot of negative camber to be able to tuck without rubbing - but you sacrifice inside tire wear, if you put on a lot of miles.

The Hotchkis arms will correct this for you - can get you back to 0°, or anywhere less than 0° you want to be, down to -3°.
I had the same tire wear issue you have, lowered on Tein coilovers - zero inside wear and cupping after installing the Hotchkis kit and an alignment.

Tshock

iTrader: (2)

I see what you mean about the positive camber. But how does a Zero degree hotchkis arm bring the camber closer to the stock spec? My stock setting is at MAX positive camber. I still need to add more camber to what it is at now. I dont see how adding a part that only allows me to subtract camber will help my issue.
If I bolted the Hotchkis camber arms on right now and set them at 0 degrees, theoretically is should be close to what I have now. If they only allow negative adjustment I feel like I am shooting myself in the foot. It really is a silly part that looks like I could build with mini heim joints and turnbuckles.

Drey

iTrader: (4)

Yeah you dont want ANY positive camber. Stock specs are from -1.3 to 0.2 front and from -1.4 to 0.4 rear. Keep it at -1 all around and you'll be ok. After lowering stock arms can be adjusted only between like -2 and -5 I think. So if you replace stock with aftermarket one piece arms it would shift your range to 0 to -3. Hotchkis has wider range, basically adds 3 degrees in both directions over stock arms. So with hotchkis arms your range would be -8 to + 1. So what im saying is any aftermarket camber arm will get you back to -1. Your choice.

Tshock

iTrader: (2)

I know the car needs to stay at a slight negative camber.
Not all aftermarket camber arms are created equal, some are fixed, some are adjustable.
According to this link, they only adjust from 0* to -3*
According to this link, they adjust from 0* to 3*

I want to make sure I can properly compensate by increasing the overall length of the control arm. Which is why I started this thread, to save me the headaches I have endured in the past by not researching products properly.
Eibach Pro Kit is a fixed +2*
SPC looks just like Eibach.

Drey

iTrader: (4)

Yes SPC and Eibach fixed arms are just longer version of stock ones. Hotchkis is the only one on the market that truly adjustable. I'm not sure why they put 0 to -3 in the description, probably just because most people would just stay in that range anyways. Its like some coilovers says that its 0 to 2.5 inches drop, but a lot of people will go lower than 3 inch. But they do look exactly like in 2nd link.

Tshock

iTrader: (2)

Can anyone vouch for a good place/price on the Hotchkis adjustable rear upper control arms?



My rear tires had BAD camber wear and CRAZY flat spots/lumps on the inside of tire that left tread every few inches and bald areas in between. It was like riding on a stop sign (maybe spring preload/rebound?!) issues. Any input on this would be appreciated. I already replaced the tires, but I want to prevent it from happening again. I tightened the preload on my coilovers and loosened the rebound from the max setting to 3/4.