How hard is it to replace the rotors and brake pads?

I'm replacing my rotors with a set of new front and rear drill/slot rotors. I also thought while I'm replacing my rotor, I might as well replace my brake pads as well. Has anyone done this yet? What is the difficulty level and does anyone have any tips so I don't f*ck up my ride?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

Bump. Anyone?

 

its simple, im installing my rotors/pads at the end of next week
i could post pics w/step by step for you if you want

 

i don't have hardly any car repair knowledge and replacing the rotors and brake pads is fairly simple. just give yourself a little time. having the proper tools will also make it much easier

 

the proper tools make everything easier

 

Thanks for easing my nerves guys. What tools should I have ready?

Thanks for the offer of pics and a diy scionbandit. I'm doing this on Saturday, so don't worry about it. I appreciate the offer though. I'll post some pics once I'm finished.

 

Ok replacing brake pads is no sweat, but I'm having trouble taking the rotors off. Does anyone know what bolts I need to look for?

 

like everyone else said if you replace the rotors you should prob put new pads in too just so that they dont get any wierd wear problems

 

instead of spamming, i ordered my powerslots and axxis deluxes. im comfident about removing the caliper and the rotor, but on the tech install's they all mention depressing the pistons in the caliper, and take out some fluid, etc. can anyone expand on this process for me? is it the same in the front and back?

 

its pretty easy to replace rotaors and pads

 

Thats easy to say. Can you be more specific?

Depressing the pistons in the caliper and taking out fluid?

Can someone verfiy this? Anyone do a DIY yet? Inquiring minds would love to know!

 

you will need a C-clamp to press the piston in. Without pressing the piston in you wont be able to install the new pads because the new pads are thicker. As brake pads wear down the calipers adjust for the decreasing thickness. Pressing in the piston is simply a way to readjust the calipers for new pads.

 

and the references to removing fluid is to remove some fluid from teh master cylinder because as you push the pistons in, you shove fluid back up the lines and if your master cylinder is full, it'll spill everywhere (take the cap of to make pushing the piston back in easier.

If you are wanting performance, I'd recommend replacing the hoses with steel lines ($70 for two, 4 needed). That makes a very noticible difference... however you'll need to bleed the brakes if you do that and that can be a pita... (my corvette was rediculously painful, my old Ranger was a cinch -- in either case, helps to have two people, one to bleed, one to push the brakes)

 

When i put my powerslots on, i did not have any issues of using the clamp and fluid seeping out......but others may have that happen......
the Tc is by far the easiest i have ever done, no set screw in the rotor, since it is a floating rotor, and make sure you Zip tie the caliper or have someone hold it.
but you need to remove the two bolts from the back of the caliper to take the caliper off to get the rotor on, then bolt the bottom of the caliper back on, leaving the top bolt off then just put the new pads in......make sure you bed the rotors properly or you will ruin the pads, and rotors.

I think the back bolt is a 14mm or 16mm......but you will most likley have to use a breaker bar to get the bolt loose then you can pretty much use basic handtools.

I too recomend adding the SS lines, you will notice alot of difference, also i purchased synthetic fluid at pepboys, its dot4 and has a boiling point of about 475 degrees, probably overkill but might as well....however make sure you either flush the lines really good.

 

oh, now is a good time to paint that rotor too.......if you want to do that.

 

instigator, can you go over the bed-in procedure again?
this c-clamp, can it be bought in a parts store? pricing?

 

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...&subcat=Clamps

 

cclamps (and other crap that you'll use one time) can be way cheaper at HarborFreight... Now a lot of their stuff is junk, but you need gloves or sandpaper or clamps or "disposable" tools like hammers, or cclamps in this case... hit em up

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...l_Store_ID=186

 

and the pistons in the caliper are only on one side, so i only need one clamp?

 

one clamp, its the same clamp you used in woodshop to clamp two pieces of wood togethers.........
the bed in process i used is, drive the car, take to 30mph and brake until you come down to about 10Mph, not hards, gentle and consistant.........you need to do this about 10 times.