im about to paint my brake calipers and i need to know how much pounds to tork my rims to..... Wheels are tork revo black with chrome lip18 x 8 with a +35 offset, 1.75" lip, 5 x 100 bolt pattern, 73.1 hub bore with 54.1 hub centric rings installed

 

OEM torque is 76 ft lbs... don't know about yours specifically or if they would actually be different.

 

should i do less than 76 or more?

 

I've always torqued my wheels to 85-90lbs (just to be safe lol)

 

200lbs be safer

 

thats a ____ load.... from 76 to 200 pounds? what should i do guys help me out here

 

Stick to oem specs, don't go over 80lbs if you don't know the exact amount?

 

The torque is in regards to how much stress the wheel studs can handle if equipped with a proper set of lugs. If you have a properly fitting set of lugs and stock studs, go with OEM specs. Can't go wrong.

 

i think ill just do 80 sound good?

 

i just tighten em as tight as i can by hand.

 

80 is fine. Just make sure you put some anti-seize on the stud threads first if you haven't already.

 

Anti-seize is what is NOT recommended or any other type of lubricant. However what I do is a little WD40 to prevent corrosion here in NE we have a lot of salt spray and salt used on the roads in the winter. As far as how tight, the dealer had my left rear off and it took a breaker bar to loosen it and I am talking a quarter turn too tight. I usually tighten with the wrench in the trunk tight enough so I can take it off with the same wrench. That way should I get a flat I want to be able to get the tire off with what tools I have in the car. Usually if your tires are balanced and don't vibrate they will not come loose if you tighten them with resonable force. To me 80ftlbs sounds pretty high.

 

80 FT/LBS is the recommended torque. I used to be a tire installer and there was a company policy stating that all vehicles needed anti-seize applied because you can break an old stud off or strip a nut if not used. It isn't going to fly off when driving if torqued properly so it IS recommended. It allows you to torque the nut accurately. It eliminates friction, displaces water and salt (I live in Florida so I'm well aware of that), and ensures accurate torque. I don't know where you got your facts. If you don't believe me, swing by your local Wal-Mart Tire Center or Tire Kingdom and ask them what the proper torque is and the reasoning behind using Anti-Seize.

 

the anti-seize is an industry standard now..when I was in my advanced brakes class at school the instructors (who are all ASE master techs and have been probably longer than i've been alive lol) wanted us to start using the anti-seize as well..you don't necessarily HAVE to use it but it is recommended and it definitely won't hurt anything either.

but just to chime in - 76-80ft lbs is where you wanna be.

 

You are not going to get that nut/stud off with the wrench in the truck at that torque setting.

From the xB owners manual Page 159 center of page in bright yellow box.

"CAUTION Never use oil or grease on the bolts or nuts. The nuts may loosen and the wheels may fall off, which could cause a serious accident."

repeated on the right side of page 161 with this additional text.

"If there is oil or grease on any bolt or nut, clean it."

Page 162 " Use only the wheel nut wrench to tighten the nuts. Do not use other tools or any additional leverage other than your hands, such as a hammer, pipe or your foot. "

Torque spec. 76 ft-lbs

 

76.

 

yeah hand tight for the win

 

Ditto.

 

My buddy with a Ford F150 about 12 years old now has the aluminum mag wheels and the wheel nuts are not tapered into the holes but flat with knerlings on the nut to lock them. Well the left front was taken off for the brake inspection a little over a year ago and probably not tightened properly when they put it back on. He was hearing a clunking in the front end when he braked so he took it to a mechanic. The wheel ended up rocking on the center hole and wore an oval in the stud holes. So I understand what you are saying about proper torque but too much is not a good thing and can leave you stranded with a flat or a sore foot from jumping on the wrench. Another friend with a Saab had his winter tires swapped for summer tires at a garage and it took us jumping on a breaker bar to get the nuts off - broke a socket in the process too.
We don't have this problem with our nuts because they taper into the wheel holes but too much torque can be a problem. Not to mention warping the rotors, stripping threads etc. Like I said the dealer tightened my left rear with a 1/4 turn on the breaker bar past tight enough at "OH MY GOD THESE ARE TIGHT" Torgue setting.

 

i can hand tighten my nuts up to 200lbs im strong i guess