New Sub
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 72
From: 'murica
New Sub
Looking to some of the guy on this forum that have mobile audio experience.
I'm looking to pick up the following
1x 12 inch AudioQue HDC3.0 ($250)
1x Hifonics Brutus 1700 (200)
Atrend 2.5 cu ft box (100)
Let me know what you guys think. Any suggestions in the price ranges that would perform better?
I'm looking to pick up the following
1x 12 inch AudioQue HDC3.0 ($250)
1x Hifonics Brutus 1700 (200)
Atrend 2.5 cu ft box (100)
Let me know what you guys think. Any suggestions in the price ranges that would perform better?
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 72
From: 'murica
LOL@STEVE. First time I heard of this stuff I thought "ebay crap" as well, and then I heard an AQ sub in a car for the first time and it blew my mind. I heard a 500W HDC2.5 12 inch sub and I swear to god from the outside, it looked like the car was breathing.
@ rotz
I really want the best of both worlds, which is why I'm going AudioQue. If I had to go one way more than another it would be SPL. I don't exactly plan on doing any competitions, but depending on how loud this setup is, I might ****** up a more powerful amp in the future to compete. This sub is rated at 1000W RMS, but from what I have heard and read they can easily take 1500W RMS. I plan on seeing that for myself.
I used to have a set of Kicker Comp 12s in my trunk @ 250W a piece. I decided I wanted a 1000W single 12 inch sub to save some trunk space.
@ rotz
I really want the best of both worlds, which is why I'm going AudioQue. If I had to go one way more than another it would be SPL. I don't exactly plan on doing any competitions, but depending on how loud this setup is, I might ****** up a more powerful amp in the future to compete. This sub is rated at 1000W RMS, but from what I have heard and read they can easily take 1500W RMS. I plan on seeing that for myself.
I used to have a set of Kicker Comp 12s in my trunk @ 250W a piece. I decided I wanted a 1000W single 12 inch sub to save some trunk space.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 190
From: CT
It's a beefy sub, so the more pound you want is more trunk space you'll have to give up. To get that thing really moving I could see it in a 3^ft+ ported enclosure. That's half of the hatch space. Seal it for a smaller box. It's great equipment no doubt.
Since I am a SSA fanboy, I would recommend the ICON sealed @1.25^ft. $285 (1250w-rms)
A more budget friendly option is the DCON @1.2^ft. $125 (300w-rms)
Since I am a SSA fanboy, I would recommend the ICON sealed @1.25^ft. $285 (1250w-rms)
A more budget friendly option is the DCON @1.2^ft. $125 (300w-rms)
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 72
From: 'murica
It's a beefy sub, so the more pound you want is more trunk space you'll have to give up. To get that thing really moving I could see it in a 3^ft+ ported enclosure. That's half of the hatch space. Seal it for a smaller box. It's great equipment no doubt.
Since I am a SSA fanboy, I would recommend the ICON sealed @1.25^ft. $285 (1250w-rms)
A more budget friendly option is the DCON @1.2^ft. $125 (300w-rms)
Since I am a SSA fanboy, I would recommend the ICON sealed @1.25^ft. $285 (1250w-rms)
A more budget friendly option is the DCON @1.2^ft. $125 (300w-rms)
I've heard good things baout the DCON but I really wanted a 1000W RMS sub. Do you think I will benefit that much more going from 2.5^ to 3 cu ft for the box? I know it's better for SPL and better for the sub because it'll be getting more cool air in a bigger enclosure- but do you think I can get away with a 2.5?
That box has 2.5 cu ft of space and is made of 1 inch MDF. Or should I just pay a shop to built me a box, maybe one that takes advantage of the cubby holes in the rear (where the JL sub goes). I think if I got it custom made, and took advangate of the side space, I could probably even go above 3cu ft.
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 993
From: Frederica, DE
The sub should have a preferred box size for vented and sealed. Find as close to that as you can. Dont forget to consider the speakers air displacement if your trying to be accurate. Sealed will save space but ported will give you more boom.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2
From: dog house
sub
If your looking for a SPL and SQ sub its a really hard for the sub to do both. You will need to trade of one to get the other. picking a sub you need to know how much of each SPL vs SQ you plan to do and what power you are planning to run.
We have a 8", 4" tweet in each door and almost don't need a sub with the 8" in the doors..
To help the bottom end we have put 2 - 10" on 600 watts and played with subs from well known people such as Alpine, Mtx, Boston, Etc to lesser names as FI, DD, Dayton.
And of the time of this post removing the earthquake SWS for FI hq.
The size of our box is tight and because of that its find a sub to fit the box unless we wish to rebuild the rear hatch set up
We have a 8", 4" tweet in each door and almost don't need a sub with the 8" in the doors..
To help the bottom end we have put 2 - 10" on 600 watts and played with subs from well known people such as Alpine, Mtx, Boston, Etc to lesser names as FI, DD, Dayton.
And of the time of this post removing the earthquake SWS for FI hq.
The size of our box is tight and because of that its find a sub to fit the box unless we wish to rebuild the rear hatch set up
Thread Starter
Member
SL Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 72
From: 'murica
If your looking for a SPL and SQ sub its a really hard for the sub to do both. You will need to trade of one to get the other. picking a sub you need to know how much of each SPL vs SQ you plan to do and what power you are planning to run.
We have a 8", 4" tweet in each door and almost don't need a sub with the 8" in the doors..
To help the bottom end we have put 2 - 10" on 600 watts and played with subs from well known people such as Alpine, Mtx, Boston, Etc to lesser names as FI, DD, Dayton.
And of the time of this post removing the earthquake SWS for FI hq.
The size of our box is tight and because of that its find a sub to fit the box unless we wish to rebuild the rear hatch set up
We have a 8", 4" tweet in each door and almost don't need a sub with the 8" in the doors..
To help the bottom end we have put 2 - 10" on 600 watts and played with subs from well known people such as Alpine, Mtx, Boston, Etc to lesser names as FI, DD, Dayton.
And of the time of this post removing the earthquake SWS for FI hq.
The size of our box is tight and because of that its find a sub to fit the box unless we wish to rebuild the rear hatch set up
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 222
I would look at Image Dynamics. For SPL the IDMAX. Have heard good things about their subs on some of the forums and from local shop.
Forget the A-trend box. Have one custom built for your system, sub, and space. Per specs below 2.5 CF would be fine with this driver.
Hifonics Brutus, not a fan get something cleaner. JL 500/1 or 1000/1 or the new JL HD, Memphis Amp, Arc Audio, Zapco. Check caraudio.com and see if you can get a good deal on a used one. I would rather have a high end used amp then a cheaper quality new amp any day.
If you want it to be loud and still have good sound quality then try a 10W6 or an Image Dynamics IDQ12V3
I looked at the AQ and just didn't hear of anyone using them. Focal, Hertz, JL Audio, Image Dynamics, Memphis Subs are all ones I considered. Finding my JL 10W6 at 200 bucks in perfect condition was excellent.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-6225-idq...subwoofer.aspx
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-2031-idm...subwoofer.aspx
I was able to compare a JL Audio 12W7 in a ported box built to JL's spec in my car, and it was mind blowing lound and absolutly pounded the inside of my car, but at high vol it seemed a bit muddy or loose. Tons of SPL, I then put the 10W6 in my car, it hits hard, plays loud but is much more refined in overall sound quality.
Lastly, what front/rear speakers and what 4 channel amp do you have? I'm running 75 Watts per speaker, the JL 10W6 and JL 500/1 are MORE than enough and if I went with any more in the hatch I would have to consider upping the speakers and amp on the fronts and rears to keep them from being drowned out. Remember TC2 alternator is 100 amp, research power requirements on your system, Big Three Upgrade, higher amp alternator, batteries get all come into play when you start adding amps. It's all to easy to run out and buy audio gear without fully planning everything out only to find you have to start upgrading other things after the fact.
Forget the A-trend box. Have one custom built for your system, sub, and space. Per specs below 2.5 CF would be fine with this driver.
Hifonics Brutus, not a fan get something cleaner. JL 500/1 or 1000/1 or the new JL HD, Memphis Amp, Arc Audio, Zapco. Check caraudio.com and see if you can get a good deal on a used one. I would rather have a high end used amp then a cheaper quality new amp any day.
If you want it to be loud and still have good sound quality then try a 10W6 or an Image Dynamics IDQ12V3
I looked at the AQ and just didn't hear of anyone using them. Focal, Hertz, JL Audio, Image Dynamics, Memphis Subs are all ones I considered. Finding my JL 10W6 at 200 bucks in perfect condition was excellent.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-6225-idq...subwoofer.aspx
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-2031-idm...subwoofer.aspx
- Power RMS: 1000 Watts EIA, (1800 Watts Music Program)
- Recommended enclosure: 1.30 -1.52 cu.ft. sealed (1.8 - 2.50 cu.ft. vented
- @ 28Hz), Infinite baffle
- Xmax (linear): 24.9 mm, (0.98 inch) one-way
- Xsus (maximum): 3.5 peak to peak
- Impedance: dual 2 ohms
- Sensitivity: 1W/1M
- 93.1 dB 50-150 Hz ground plane. No 88.4 dB
- Mounting depth: 8.25“
- Mounting diameter: 11.0“
I was able to compare a JL Audio 12W7 in a ported box built to JL's spec in my car, and it was mind blowing lound and absolutly pounded the inside of my car, but at high vol it seemed a bit muddy or loose. Tons of SPL, I then put the 10W6 in my car, it hits hard, plays loud but is much more refined in overall sound quality.
Lastly, what front/rear speakers and what 4 channel amp do you have? I'm running 75 Watts per speaker, the JL 10W6 and JL 500/1 are MORE than enough and if I went with any more in the hatch I would have to consider upping the speakers and amp on the fronts and rears to keep them from being drowned out. Remember TC2 alternator is 100 amp, research power requirements on your system, Big Three Upgrade, higher amp alternator, batteries get all come into play when you start adding amps. It's all to easy to run out and buy audio gear without fully planning everything out only to find you have to start upgrading other things after the fact.
Last edited by Rob2012TC; Aug 20, 2012 at 01:12 AM.