Rob2012TC

Okay from what I've read dynomatting the hatch and trunk area is the first step to reduce noise, vibration, rattles in the car.

I am wondering if anyone on here has done this to their 2011/2012 tc and if so do you have photo's you could share, experience in doing it, tips possibly?

Also Dynamat is really expensive, Is it worth the price or would I be paying for the name, should I consider B-Quiet, FatMat, or Stinger as alternatives.

I'm sure this topic has been beat to death with the TC1 but appreciate any TC2 experiences on the matter and any experience with using different materials.

Thanks.

Big_Jim

iTrader: (3)

I've used this stuff called Quick Roof in all of my cars. It is like half the price of dynamat and does the same thing. I usually get it at home depot or lowes

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

KidJustin

on my old car i put a piece of normal cardboard behind the license plate so that wouldn't vibrate

Rob2012TC

Jim I've heard about people doing that but some mentioned a reoccurring smell from it on occasion... notice anything? Brand new car and only want to do the job one Tim with no side effects and good results... thanks.

Rob2012TC

My plate is fine. Outdoor foam weather strip will hold up better than cardboard with elements...

Big_Jim

iTrader: (3)

I've never heard of anyone having odd smells with it. I've used it in 3 cars of mine with no issues. My most recent being my Ford Bronco to deaden road noise in the back hatch area. Cut down a lot on noise, and no smells (other than old truck, cigar, and the random fart)

user 7208230

iTrader: (1)

Amazon had a decent price on FatMat, that's where I was going to get some from to try it out.

Rob2012TC

I ordered 36 sq ft of stinger road kill, a roller, and a set of interior panel removal tools from Amazon. Total was $122.00 which included shipping. Hoping the bulk pack of 36ft will cover the hatch lid and trunk areas to the back seats. Once I have this done if there some left over I'll order more and do the doors. Not sure I want to rip the seats and carpet out and do the floors yet. Well start with the trunk and see how that goes first. Also looking at possibly placing a foam barrier pad under factory mat in the trunk well for extra measures.

I did a lot of reading reviews online, the roof quick repair material is asphalt based and there were many people who said their was a slight smell of newly paved road that would come and go at times. Stinger Roadkill, dynamat, and others are butyl based which seems to be odor free from all the reviews I have read online. The car being new I figured better to spend a little more to make sure the job is a 1 time deal with no regretful side effects.

Monoxzide

Good thing you bought off of Amazon. Whenever I deadened my Mazda 6's doors back in 09 I bought a 36 sq. ft. bulk pack for like 89$ or something. So you got a pretty good deal.

Let us know the outcome and how easy/hard it was to do it. I'll be looking forward to it!

Rob2012TC

Oh I'm sure it's going to be a PITA thats for certain. How well did it work for you on the Mazda 6? I'm wondering how much 36 sq ft will cover, hoping it's enough for the hatch under the trim piece, the spare tire area, and rear quarter panels if I can get in there once I remove the interior panels. Going to buy some aluminum tape as well to cover the seams, I know it's not necessary but just think it will look nicer and worth the extra step... Been watching alot of installation video's online... You have any photo's of the job you did on the mazda 6 doors?

Monoxzide

That will look real good with the aluminum tape over the seams. Real nice and clean.

Unfortantely I don't have any pictures of my Mazda. If I did it was on my old phone and it's gone now. 36 sq. ft. will get you a very long ways though. I imagine you should be able to do all of that and maybe even have some left over.

I didn't install mine. I had a shop do it. I told them to do inner and outer panels inside each door. He did all 4 doors of my Mazda and I still had 2 sheets left over. I used that and did my trunk and my license plate myself. So you should be able to go quite a ways with that pack. Be glad you ordered the roller too. I didn't have one so getting it in the different cracks and stuff was a PITA. I didn't have anything to improvise with either.

I didn't really notice much difference in road noise, sadly. I noticed a drop in gas mileage though. Haha. But it did help with sound quality. If I knew then what I know now though I wouldn't have let the shop do it. I would have done it. So much mid-bass got lost in the plastic panel and stuff because it wasn't completely sealed off. I just never got around to messing with it.

I'll be looking forward to some pics. Don't forget ;P

Rob2012TC

Hmm... Now you have me wondering if the project is going to be a waste of money and time! I hope not. Guess I better order the Sound Barrior Vinal/Foam pad to go on top of the roadkill.

Hopefully not adding too much weight to the car. I don't think 20-30 lbs should make that much of a difference... At least I hope not... Wish someone else could post up about their results doing this to a tc....

Monoxzide

No no no. Don't be discouraged at all. There was several variables at play with my Mazda. The main one being that I had the cheapest tires that Firestone offered at the time. Most of my road noise was from them. That got better whenever I got better tires.

The other thing is that I only did the door and the trunk. If you really want to reduce noise with sound dampening you have do to EVERYTHING. That's where you will notice a difference.

The main purpose is to reduce rattles that all the extra bass that a aftermarket system puts out. It's extremely annoying to hear little rattles while your throwin' down with your system. It's even embarrassing to me. Some people don't care but I can't stand that ____.

It's certainly not a waste of time and money though. I plan on doing it to mine for sure. It's one of the most vital steps to take when doing aftermarket systems.

2tCornot2tC

You are all in the wrong frame of mind. Noise is very similar to water. If you were going to build a boat, would you say I will start with the stern of the boat…or just waterproof the back of the boat? No! The whole boat needs to be sealed…just like the whole chassis. You have to soundproof everything, not just the trunk, not just the license plate. It took two of us two full 12-hour days to take the interior completely out, install the Dynamat, install the OEM Audio+ system and re-install the interior again. Just like water, the sound insulation has to be installed at the source of the noise – the outside of the car…not to inside panels of the door and rear fenders, on the outside panels. Any gaps you leave will be a source for noise…like water - leaks. As long as you keep in mind that you are trying to waterproof a boat when installing the Dynamat, you will have great results. We installed Dynamat from the bottom edge of the all the windows, all the way down on the floor and up on the firewall. The only place we could not get a full coverage on the hatch…and guess where the source of the small amount of road noise that we get in the car comes from. The back of the car! But the amount of noise drop was significant. We used up a full three packs of these

Amazon

Amazon

to cover the whole interior of the car. We were grumbling and complaining the whole time we were doing this. Got cuts, bruises and bumps…but once we test drove the car; we looked at each other and said that it was well worth all the trouble and effort we put into it.

Monoxzide

Refer to bold. :-)

Rob2012TC

Exactly Monoxzide, I'm doing it in steps, starting with the hatch, trunk rear quarters, once I get that completely covered up to the back seats I'll see how much I have left, order more and then do the doors, once those are done, will yank the seats pull the carpet and do that. From what I have read alot of the noise comes from the trunk area and riding in the car with the stereo off early in the mornings I can definitely hear more noise coming from the rear than anywhere else in the car. So I'm starting there. I wish I could afford to gut the car and do everything at once but I have to do it in steps. Just not having buzzes or any noise in the trunk area will be nice even if noise reduction isn't much without having the rest of the car done yet.

Monoxzide

That statement wasn't directed towards you, btw.

And yes, if I were in your particular scenario I would be doing the exact same.

I'm kind of worried about the rattle from subs since the entire roof and hatch lid are all glass. Hopefully it won't be to bad.

EOIO3

This is how I did it...












Yup, I'm the other one 2tCornot2tC has mentioned.

Rob2012TC

EOIO3... WOW Amazing Job!!! What you doing this weekend??? So did all that work pay off, tell me it is incredible! How many square feet did you end up using? I'm keeping those photo's handy! I should print them off and put them on the garage wall to look at while I'm doing the job!

Monoxide, Interestingly enough I'm not getting any noise from the glass areas and only slight noise from trunk area if I really crank it up, but then again the car is new and I expect those little rattles to creep up after a few thousand miles. (I still have my 30 day tag on). The main goal is to quiet down some of the road noise especially coming from the back end of the car at highway speeds, this is where I hear probably 60-70% of the noise coming from.

I think I will add the vinyl cell foam sound block barrier under the trunk area and floorboards as an additional step while the car is apart...

Cool and thanks for the great pics!

EOIO3

Just like 2tCornot2tC said, it took every bit of 3 bulk packs and every bit of two long 12-hour days. Each pack has 9 sheets of 18"X32" Dynamat for a total of 108 square feet! We cut them up to get them into all the tight/right places. The inside of the doors is a very important spot too...you need to get the entire outside surface. It is a LOT of work, but very worth it! You do have to do it all...also getting behind the rear fenders was a major PITA. My suggestion is to do it all. You will be disappointed if you don't. It is a WOW difference if done this way... We also only used one type of Dynamt because the factory installs some deadening and we covered over that to supplement it. That is why figured to only use one kind even though several types are available.