Hi folks,

I'm getting a sub, this one in fact:


and as such, need to get it some juice. At some point I also intend to replace the 6x9's, and perhaps the factory amp under the driver seat. I'm just thinking out loud here, but . . . do you think it might make sense just to get a really good multi-channel amp, e.g., 4-channel+, and replace the driver seat amp w/ something that can power my 6x9's AND sub, all in one device?

Further, if I were to use one Über amp, does the factory amp's hot/ground have a sufficiently robust connection to the electrical system to power a more capable amp at that location, or will I have to, or should I, run a new line to the battery somehow?

The sub is likely to be positioned directly behind the driver's seat, so it'll be very close to the driver, and relatively close to the passenger. I'm not out to conquer Poland with my bass, just looking to round out the system.

If anyone has some advice for me, I'd appreciate it very much.

 

Don't buy those prefab subs, they are terrible. That thing won't take more than 200watts RMS, I dont care if it says that it will hit a 800 watt max.

Anyway, back to your question, getting a 4+1 amp isn't a bad idea. You would use it to power the front mid and tweeter, and then the back two speakers. You would need a dedicated amp for either the front 6x9s or the sub, you could not put both on a mono channel.

For your sub box I would grab one of these:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...B-Jam-Box.html
With one of these
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...o-SEX10D4.html

It will be pretty darn loud.
This would be a good "uber" amp to wire up your speakers and the sub
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Xi60.4-1K.html

and you could use this
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...HFi-100.2.html
to power the 6x9s

 

I appreciate your advice on the sub -- however, I'm well decided on a slim, out-of-the-way sub that will fit in the space right behind the driver seat, which will allow passengers in the back, uncomfortable though it might be, to rest their feat on top of the subwoofer, as they sit facing forward. The Pioneer is a set-it-and-forget-it solution insofar as subwoofer placement is concerned, and I'm sure it's good enough for my needs. I haul around large objects quite often, such as large TVs, home theater receivers, speakers, etc., and can't be hassled to move the subwoofer around. The Pioneer TS-SW251 isn't negotiable. ;) But thanks for watching out for me.

200 watts nominal power on the sub, does this change the equation any regarding which amp I should get? I'm not looking to spend a lot of money, given that I'm really not all that concerned about bass. Just a gentle rounding-out of the frequency response of the entire audio system is all I'm after. The 6x9's almost do that already for me. Is there an all-in-one amp that might fit the area/bill$$?

 

You can do a 3 channel amp that you can wire to the front speakers and the sub. Let me do some research....

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ss-CX1800.html

This would be perfect for some loud speakers, and is matched perfectly to your sub

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...LS-CAT-31.html

This is more expensive for only 3 channels, but I would trust DLS over BOSS

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te-R600-5.html

This is the cheapest they have for a truly brand name amp that fits your requirements. The 4 channels are not that powerful, but it should work well to not overpower your sub. I think this would be the best best, and won't break the bank.

 

Thank you, emrules & Nick!

I'll try to digest this presently.

 

Wait wait wait don't you DARE BUY BOSS AUDIO CRAPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I can see trhe argument for the crappy shallow mount sub even though I disagree with it and think its going to prevent you from being able to adjust your seats and probably going to rattle like a ****. But dont you DARE buy a crappy amp that is a mistake I have madde time and time again trying to save money. Spend the money, it'll save headache in the long run.
The minimum I would recommend is the http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te-R600-5.html
rockford amp he had suggested. Even though the Prime amps kinda suck.

Then for the doors you STILL need a dedicated amp.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ME-R150-2.html
You can match it up with one of these I suppose, but ideally you want MORE POWER to the 6x9s than to the 4"ers and the rear 6.5"ers
so that again brings me to this amp
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...HFi-100.2.html
which is great bang for buck from a good company

 

Thank you again for your generous help, Nick.

I swapped out the stock head unit, for a Pioneer AVH-P3300BT, isn't there enough amp in that to power the smaller speakers? Speaking of which, are my 6x9's now getting two amplifier stages, i.e., Pioneer sending out an amplified signal + under-seat amp? I'm using a metra wiring harness which made things really simple for me, but . . . I'm not precisely clear about what is, in-fact, going on. I will dedicate the time tonight to figure that out.

 

No definitely not. It's still only 15 watts a channel. If your goal is to clean up the sound even further you need an amp. At 55watts/ch you will be able to get it a bit louder, but more importantly it will sound BETTER and more responsive at mid-volume listening levels.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...s-HFi55.4.html
This would work well for your purposes. You would still need an amp for the 6x9 speakers and the sub. You could get away with 1- 2 channel amp provided you could locate it under the sib box or under the passenger seat.
This would work, because of its small size and high power output
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...er-T400-2.html

Might I suggest that you set up your 6x9s and sub now, and worry about amping the speakers later. You will find, though, that when the bass hits nicely the speakers can't keep up.

 

Just amp your sub package with this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...GM-D7500M.html
Its a perfect match up at 200w/RMS@4ohm

Once you have that set up I highly doubt you'll feel the need to amp your door speakers. You will however want a bigger bass package in the future.

 

I was never a fan of amps with spade type terminals. They just look cheap.

 

Oh I love me some spade terminals. A little silver solder and a good heat shrink makes for a very clean install look.

 

Ordered the Rockford Fosgate Prime R600-5 and the Pioneer TS-SW251 subwoofer, should all be here by the end of the week. I'm so excited!

The amp's dimensions are 17" by 8" by 2.5" high, looks to me just by eyeballing things that it should fit without problem underneath the driver's seat, after I take out the stock amplifier. Keeping in mind that a) the amp is pretty moderate as far as power goes, b) I'm not a look-at-me, self-praising braggart out to be heard from a mile away, and c) have pretty sensitive ears that can't tolerate loud music, then should I replace the stock power source supplying the stock head unit, or just rely on the built-in wiring/power source? If I do replace it, how tough is that, and do I really have to use wire as thick as my . . . . or can I get by without ill-effect and use something more moderate like 8, 10, or 12?

 

The headunit's power source is fine. I'm use an powerpack and i havent blown the fuse. Anyone who tells you otherwise is greatly exaggerating. As for rewiring the speakers, alls you need is 16 gauge. For the sub I would use 14 guage. Dont forget, you need spade connectors for all your wiring on the R600, and I suppose you are just bypassing the 6x9s for now?

 

Ok wait I'm lost here. You bought a 5 channel amp to power 1 subwoofer? Generally people amp their subs with a mono-block, and use a multi-channel for the rest of their speakers that have been matched for power and resistance. Using a multi-channel for all of your needs makes its near impossible to properly set gains and crossovers.

And you don't NEED spade connectors, you can get away with bare wire in those terminals.

 

Why not just get a nice box to put in the hatch? For the times you need the hatch space, you can simply take the sub out since its not a permanent fixture. I like that idea instead of occupying the rear seat area.

 

The 5-channel amp, as far as I can tell, allows the channels to be controlled independently.

 

I've spoken to this already.

 

Hello again Nick,

When you say head unit's power source, do you mean the amp-under-driver-seat's power source? That's what I was asking about. Do they both go through the same exact path to the battery, through the same fuse? Is that what you're alluding to, or did you think I was talking about the head unit, and not the amp as an independent entity?

The gauge I was referring to is the source of electricity to the amp under the driver's seat. That source will be get a new workout when I install the new amp, hence my question.

 

4 gauge ground and power to the fosgate amp. If you're only going to utilize minimum power from it you can maybe skimp to 6 but I would go with what the manufacturer recommends.