So I will be getting a 2014 auto tc, what are some of the first (not so expensive) mods i should do? affordable and functional not just appearance. thanks.

 

If you are wanting exhaust, I'd say go with an axle back for sound since most of the catbacks on the market, like the Tsudo, have been reported to cause low end power loss, with very little gains up top.

An intake, CAI or SRI, will add 0 proven power. Pulleys are about the same, no proof outside of questionable dyno print outs.

I'd say if you want an intake for the sound, go with a Takeda or Injen CAI so you aren't sucking in hot air like the short rams do at least. There is also the TRD intake. Also won't net any real power that you would ever feel. The tuners are also worthless unless you are going with a turbo setup. This engine just wasn't designed to bolt on power to like a turbo car or some of the Honda motors. (K20/K24)

I would look into an axle back exhaust like the Greddy Evo3 or TRD. They give a sporty sound and don't compromise the cars performance. The Dezod headers seem to offer a few ponies, but nothing that will make the car any faster in the quarter mile. At least I haven't seen any intake, header, pulley, or exhaust company back up numbers for a tC at the track. Just dyno graphs that vary too much and are inconsistent to prove they really do anything but alter sound and have theories behind them that are really unproven at a track or in a real drag race.

Lowering springs would offer the most fun and a noticeable sportier driving feel and aggressive look as well. I suggest Megan, TRD or Tein S Techs. The Tein will give you the lowest drop, but also wear the factory struts faster than the Megan or TRD.

At the end of the day, a lot of people will say intakes, tuners and pulleys will add power to this car. But until I see a baseline run at the track then a tC making consistent faster runs with said bolt-ons, I'd say stick to an axleback exhaust, lowering springs. And if you just HAVE to get an intake, get a CAI and not an SRI.

 

Well, I do agree with several of the points, but I respectfully disagree with your track idea when it comes to bolt ons or almost any mod for that matter. Why? Simply put, track results are HEAVILY contingent on a lot of external conditions like weather, track prep, driver skill set, tires, 60' etc. A dyno is a means of leveling that playing field with showing proven power gains (in many cases excluding atmospheric conditions due to SAE correction factors). This for example is what is exemplified with our header dynos showing gains across almost torque band. THAT is shown and proven with our headers. Weather or not you can capitalize on those gains to equate to track time improvement, is an entirely different discussion. You can give a 10 second car to a fella whom can't drive and he may run a 13 or worse.

 

Well, I did state you header does make a few ponies compared to all the zeros I affiliated with other parts. Quality exhaust components are proven to work. With that being said. It's still hard to make a tC faster without boost. You could literally run a stock car at the track. Bolt everything they make for a tC minus a turbo kit, while you're there, and do more runs. No different than a dyno test done on the same day baseline vs whatever bolt-on they test. Intake, header, catback, pulley, I bet you could install everything with help in 2 hours and use the same driver.

 

I have Greddy Evo 3, Injen SRI and AP Pulley. Had weapon r header but too loud BUT great gains in the powerband. I will be getting the Dezod Green Header.

But best bang for buck hands down is the Agency Power Pulley. My car feels way more awake and responsive now

 

I did an Injen SRI on my tC for like 2 weeks and it was bogging and felt way slower in La weather. Even the wife noticed and she doesn't usually notice anything car related. Put the stock air box back on and was instantly back alive. Sounded cool I suppose.

 

Sri in LA weather is probably why. Prob just getting completely swarmed in heat. That's why they have cai. Even stock pulls air from the far drivers side of the fender to prevent pulling in engine heat. Stupid hot outside weather just makes it that much worse. Go with k&n drop in and trd snorkel it'll but much better for your application. Cheaper too.

I'd also like to ad how was this engine not made for boost ? Many people reliably running 300whp with dezod/ptuning or other kits. Ad pistons and rods and your laughing. Stock head gasket, crank bearing, head bolts and entire top end seam to hold up well over 300. Just ask Paul 😉. Naming k20/k24 doesn't tell anyone anything either. There's about 7 or 8 variants of the k20 and the only insane one is the k20a2 02-04 rsx type s. Which can handle 500-600hp on stock internals. Every other k20 is about the same or worse than our motors when it comes to boost. Either from having high compression ratio or weak internals.

 

thanks guys