Auto x setup
07-20-2011, 03:36 AM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Houston, TX
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I know 1stOne uses TRD's and he reports good stuff about them, check his build thread (3rd to last page or something like that...). I also autocross/track but I havn't decided what springs to get either. I'm sure the TRD's are better than stock, but I want a little lower so I think I'm going to wait and see how the H&R's look since they have a good rep. Waiting on a rear sway and brake pads since those will probably help more than springs.
07-20-2011, 05:03 AM
#4
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^Just check out the schedule for your local chapter. For the first 2-3 events, you don't really need a membership by then since the fee that goes toward a weekend membership can be put toward your SCCA membership. Other than that, there isn't much else needed to get on a autocross track besides removing floor mats...
07-20-2011, 12:57 PM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,075
To start Auto-Xing, I’d go with this setup from Eibach…here is a link to their website, but since it is a “flash” site, I can’t give you a direct link…so here is screenshot of it.
http://performance-suspension.eibach.com/cms/street_performance_application_look_up
http://performance-suspension.eibach.com/cms/street_performance_application_look_up
07-20-2011, 01:46 PM
#6
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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As a seasoned autox vet, take my advise, leave it stock! Adding mods will only shadow your abilities and you will never be as fast as you really could.
Build your car based on what you NEED it to do and based on what class you want to run. Remember, that SCCA ruling is deep with classes, so pick one and remember what you can and cannot do. The more modified classes, the more competitive they are, so if your just getting started, pick a low class, but one that will challenge you to push yourself and your car.
Now, as for mods, I would suggest putting it back to stock and taking it out for a few events. Use that as a guide for future mods. For example, if you feel the car needs to rotate better and that the back end could come around faster for turns, a rear sway bar might help. However, at the same time, removing the stock front could also help you achieve the same results. Springs might actually inhibit your ability to rotate the car and load the tires, so be careful a low is not fast in autox. The car needs to be able to transfer weight so that you can maximize the grip to the appropriate tire. At the same time, if you have access to a pyrometer, you should check the heat zones on your tires (immediately following a run) to see how your alignment settings are. You might need more front camber so that when you load the car, the tire is being utilized to its utmost potential. If under load your producing too much positive or negative camber, your not using all the tire. Alignment is the single most important thing in racing (for cars...the nut behind the wheel is the most important). Tires is a close second.
So while we can all sit here and tell you that installing X part will produce Y results, what you might really need is Z results and only you can say what part could produce that. For all you know, it could be the stock parts. Build your car based on what you need it to do and the class you compete in. Don't mod it and assume that it will be faster, because it probably wont be. And if you've never raced before, do NOT buy race tires. Learn the limits of streets first, then move to r-comps. I've been racing for around 6 years now and I still run streets, I've just moved to more aggressive tires since starting.
Hope that helps. Save your pennies and spend them right. Doing so will get you to a class win and help you enjoy your car all the more.
Build your car based on what you NEED it to do and based on what class you want to run. Remember, that SCCA ruling is deep with classes, so pick one and remember what you can and cannot do. The more modified classes, the more competitive they are, so if your just getting started, pick a low class, but one that will challenge you to push yourself and your car.
Now, as for mods, I would suggest putting it back to stock and taking it out for a few events. Use that as a guide for future mods. For example, if you feel the car needs to rotate better and that the back end could come around faster for turns, a rear sway bar might help. However, at the same time, removing the stock front could also help you achieve the same results. Springs might actually inhibit your ability to rotate the car and load the tires, so be careful a low is not fast in autox. The car needs to be able to transfer weight so that you can maximize the grip to the appropriate tire. At the same time, if you have access to a pyrometer, you should check the heat zones on your tires (immediately following a run) to see how your alignment settings are. You might need more front camber so that when you load the car, the tire is being utilized to its utmost potential. If under load your producing too much positive or negative camber, your not using all the tire. Alignment is the single most important thing in racing (for cars...the nut behind the wheel is the most important). Tires is a close second.
So while we can all sit here and tell you that installing X part will produce Y results, what you might really need is Z results and only you can say what part could produce that. For all you know, it could be the stock parts. Build your car based on what you need it to do and the class you compete in. Don't mod it and assume that it will be faster, because it probably wont be. And if you've never raced before, do NOT buy race tires. Learn the limits of streets first, then move to r-comps. I've been racing for around 6 years now and I still run streets, I've just moved to more aggressive tires since starting.
Hope that helps. Save your pennies and spend them right. Doing so will get you to a class win and help you enjoy your car all the more.
07-20-2011, 03:44 PM
#8
My head is just reeling from the info...
*You have been hit by Wall of Words for OVER 9000 DAMAGE*
I was told while researching about how to get started in WDC SCCA, "Stock is best".
I just need to find out if a K&N filter = not stock.
*You have been hit by Wall of Words for OVER 9000 DAMAGE*
I was told while researching about how to get started in WDC SCCA, "Stock is best".
I just need to find out if a K&N filter = not stock.
07-20-2011, 04:01 PM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,075
RTFM here http://www.scca.org/documents/2011%20Tech/2011%20SCCA%20Solo%20Rules.pdf
interpreting page 78, a TRD intake would be legal for stock...so your K&N is also legal.
interpreting page 78, a TRD intake would be legal for stock...so your K&N is also legal.
07-20-2011, 04:15 PM
#12
removed, replaced, or modified."
In theory, replacing the snorkel, airbox top (larger), and the arm from the airbox to the TB, someone CAN say it isn't stock. I've been told most don't care, but there are some sticklers at some events that will up your class because of it. Having an email from higher ups can usually get that passed over.
...and just as an aside. When you respond to folks with "RTFM" it can come across as a bit harsh. Telling someone to Read The F@#$ing Manual .... ya know? Especially when they have said they are just learning about the sport....
07-20-2011, 04:25 PM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,075
Once you start racing, you will learn very quickly that if you do what everybody else does, at best, you will be only as good as everybody else…running mid field. If you do something different, you could run at the front or the back…to run up front, you learn what works for you, you learn pretty quickly…as 1stOne alluded to. You also learn to argue your interpretation of the rules to tech inspectors…something (TRD intake in this particular case) is provided by the manufacturer and you can buy the car new from the dealer with the TRD intake installed…by definition means stock. You never ask – you state your point!
07-20-2011, 04:37 PM
#14
@ Scratch: While I agree, we keep 2tCornot2tC around for his knowledge, not his tact (he'd agree with that statement, I'm sure). Kinda like we keep you around for humor. 
And I give you crap, but I'm in the same boat. I've actually read just about the entire SCCA rules guide for 2011 and I'm still lost on some of the rules. Damn lawyer speak.
There is a statement about "any other modifications are not allowed" and a short shifter is never listed. Also, listen to 1stOne about the wheels/tires. First class where you're allowed to go with wider tires than stock is the same class that lets you add a turbo.
And I'd have to go back to verify, but I believe you can add an intake and exhaust and stay in the stock class. Just be careful with the exhaust as I believe it said you have to leave all the cats in place and doesn't Descendant remove one cat?
And I give you crap, but I'm in the same boat. I've actually read just about the entire SCCA rules guide for 2011 and I'm still lost on some of the rules. Damn lawyer speak. There is a statement about "any other modifications are not allowed" and a short shifter is never listed. Also, listen to 1stOne about the wheels/tires. First class where you're allowed to go with wider tires than stock is the same class that lets you add a turbo.
And I'd have to go back to verify, but I believe you can add an intake and exhaust and stay in the stock class. Just be careful with the exhaust as I believe it said you have to leave all the cats in place and doesn't Descendant remove one cat?
07-20-2011, 05:36 PM
#16
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,075
NO...the rules say ANY shocks, springs, sway bars can be used and still be in stock class. That is why I posted the Eibach kit...that is what I would start with.
The quick shifter is a factory "option" from Scion...a TRD quick shifter is a slam dunk for me. The rules also say that you can substitute parts...someone else's quick shifter could be arguable...a tougher sell though if you get caught. I'd just use the TRD one if I was to go auto-Xing.
The quick shifter is a factory "option" from Scion...a TRD quick shifter is a slam dunk for me. The rules also say that you can substitute parts...someone else's quick shifter could be arguable...a tougher sell though if you get caught. I'd just use the TRD one if I was to go auto-Xing.
07-20-2011, 06:53 PM
#19
Check with your local SCCA chapters, especially before you spend money on a mod. Two coworkers of mine were just at my desk, I showed them the 2011 rules on suspension, and they were both like "WTF" and said a lowered car will get you bumped out of Stock.
Now, I am NOT claiming anything about what the rules are. Just passing along info as I've been told. ie: For my locals... Autocrossers, Inc. use SCCA rules but are way more chill about the specifics.
That manual is making my head hurt. Thus why I'm going to take some beginner classes for the 2012 season.
...and for MightyP: Why did the chicken cross the road?
Now, I am NOT claiming anything about what the rules are. Just passing along info as I've been told. ie: For my locals... Autocrossers, Inc. use SCCA rules but are way more chill about the specifics.
That manual is making my head hurt. Thus why I'm going to take some beginner classes for the 2012 season.
...and for MightyP: Why did the chicken cross the road?
07-20-2011, 07:05 PM
#20
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Music City Scions
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nashvegas
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As a seasoned autox vet, take my advise, leave it stock! Adding mods will only shadow your abilities and you will never be as fast as you really could.
Build your car based on what you NEED it to do and based on what class you want to run. Remember, that SCCA ruling is deep with classes, so pick one and remember what you can and cannot do. The more modified classes, the more competitive they are, so if your just getting started, pick a low class, but one that will challenge you to push yourself and your car.
Now, as for mods, I would suggest putting it back to stock and taking it out for a few events. Use that as a guide for future mods. For example, if you feel the car needs to rotate better and that the back end could come around faster for turns, a rear sway bar might help. However, at the same time, removing the stock front could also help you achieve the same results. Springs might actually inhibit your ability to rotate the car and load the tires, so be careful a low is not fast in autox. The car needs to be able to transfer weight so that you can maximize the grip to the appropriate tire. At the same time, if you have access to a pyrometer, you should check the heat zones on your tires (immediately following a run) to see how your alignment settings are. You might need more front camber so that when you load the car, the tire is being utilized to its utmost potential. If under load your producing too much positive or negative camber, your not using all the tire. Alignment is the single most important thing in racing (for cars...the nut behind the wheel is the most important). Tires is a close second.
So while we can all sit here and tell you that installing X part will produce Y results, what you might really need is Z results and only you can say what part could produce that. For all you know, it could be the stock parts. Build your car based on what you need it to do and the class you compete in. Don't mod it and assume that it will be faster, because it probably wont be. And if you've never raced before, do NOT buy race tires. Learn the limits of streets first, then move to r-comps. I've been racing for around 6 years now and I still run streets, I've just moved to more aggressive tires since starting.
Hope that helps. Save your pennies and spend them right. Doing so will get you to a class win and help you enjoy your car all the more.
Build your car based on what you NEED it to do and based on what class you want to run. Remember, that SCCA ruling is deep with classes, so pick one and remember what you can and cannot do. The more modified classes, the more competitive they are, so if your just getting started, pick a low class, but one that will challenge you to push yourself and your car.
Now, as for mods, I would suggest putting it back to stock and taking it out for a few events. Use that as a guide for future mods. For example, if you feel the car needs to rotate better and that the back end could come around faster for turns, a rear sway bar might help. However, at the same time, removing the stock front could also help you achieve the same results. Springs might actually inhibit your ability to rotate the car and load the tires, so be careful a low is not fast in autox. The car needs to be able to transfer weight so that you can maximize the grip to the appropriate tire. At the same time, if you have access to a pyrometer, you should check the heat zones on your tires (immediately following a run) to see how your alignment settings are. You might need more front camber so that when you load the car, the tire is being utilized to its utmost potential. If under load your producing too much positive or negative camber, your not using all the tire. Alignment is the single most important thing in racing (for cars...the nut behind the wheel is the most important). Tires is a close second.
So while we can all sit here and tell you that installing X part will produce Y results, what you might really need is Z results and only you can say what part could produce that. For all you know, it could be the stock parts. Build your car based on what you need it to do and the class you compete in. Don't mod it and assume that it will be faster, because it probably wont be. And if you've never raced before, do NOT buy race tires. Learn the limits of streets first, then move to r-comps. I've been racing for around 6 years now and I still run streets, I've just moved to more aggressive tires since starting.
Hope that helps. Save your pennies and spend them right. Doing so will get you to a class win and help you enjoy your car all the more.
^^ This is good advice.