Spring Rates & Ride Height Comparison
Let’s put together a comparison of spring rates and ride height for the tC2 (AGT20L); here is what I've got so far...
I’ll add any more so we have a quick reference.
I’ll add any more so we have a quick reference.
Last edited by 2tCornot2tC; Jul 27, 2011 at 03:58 PM. Reason: table did not show up...kind of got it now!
I have a question for you 2tCornot2tC,
Say I have springs with a spring rate of "10K and 8K" F&R, where would that compare on that list? I know that its probably a matter of different measurement units.
Thanks,
Austin
Say I have springs with a spring rate of "10K and 8K" F&R, where would that compare on that list? I know that its probably a matter of different measurement units.
Thanks,
Austin
Without knowing the units, it would be tough to guess what that means…it could be pounds/foot…but that would be way too stiff. N/m would be way too soft. Any way you look at it, somebody does not know what they are doing if they put a stiffer spring in the front…that will make a car pitch back and forth like on a hobby horse.
In suspension design, you have to design the front and rear suspension to the design speed of the car. I don’t want to give a whole engineering lecture, so I will significantly abbreviate the explanation.
Every sprung system has a natural frequency. The weigh of one corner of the car and the stiffness of the spring combination will have a natural frequency. The stiffer the system, the shorter your period of oscillation will be…the time it take the system to go one full cycle. When your car hits a bump, your front of the car will start on its cycle. Depending on the speed of the vehicle, the rear will hit that same bump. You want a lot stiffer rear suspension to have a much shorter period of oscillation so that the rear of the car recovers at the same time the front does. If they recover at the same time, your car is back to stable and able to continue to its next imperfection, corner, bump, etc.
Did I answer your question?
Engineering is all compromises. He who makes the best compromises wins.
Unless you weigh all 4 corners of your car, you will not know the natural frequency…and it is different on the left side from the right…plus, you sit on the left side of the car…starting to follow.
I know that TRD has a bunch of good engineers…that is why I just chose their product over anybody else’s. I know that they will work very nicely on the street and I won’t embarrass myself on the track.
It is not a range…those are multi rate springs. They are wound differently to get one rate at first and then another rate (stiffer) as the spring compresses.
I’ve got the TRD springs on my car and the sway bars are in the mail…I expect to have a great handling car after this weekend.
Other than cost, wouldn't the Eibach Sportlines be better than the Pros under any circumstances? Lower initial spring rate (more comfy ride?) with a firmer final rate than the Pros.
The other question is, would coilovers be a better choice? I'm not looking to slam my car, but if I'm going to buy aftermarket suspension to race my car, I'd rather go the best right off the bat rather than buying 2 or 3 sets of suspension gear.
The other question is, would coilovers be a better choice? I'm not looking to slam my car, but if I'm going to buy aftermarket suspension to race my car, I'd rather go the best right off the bat rather than buying 2 or 3 sets of suspension gear.
Other than cost, wouldn't the Eibach Sportlines be better than the Pros under any circumstances? Lower initial spring rate (more comfy ride?) with a firmer final rate than the Pros.
The other question is, would coilovers be a better choice? I'm not looking to slam my car, but if I'm going to buy aftermarket suspension to race my car, I'd rather go the best right off the bat rather than buying 2 or 3 sets of suspension gear.
The other question is, would coilovers be a better choice? I'm not looking to slam my car, but if I'm going to buy aftermarket suspension to race my car, I'd rather go the best right off the bat rather than buying 2 or 3 sets of suspension gear.
As far as the shock goes, there are quite a few misconceptions out there. The spring is what holds up the car and the spring determines the shock damping rate. Since I have not raised the spring rate any significant amount, the stock shock will work…and it does. The shock needs to critically damp the spring…that is when you bounce the car, the shock dissipates the oscillations in one and a half cycles…this is perfect. In an under damped condition, the spring will continue to oscillate and you never gain control of the car. The opposite happens in an over damped condition…it is almost like installing a solid rod in place of your shock (this is the absolute extreme), but I want you to understand what is going on…you will be skidding across the road. The misconception is that you can reduce the damping for the street and jack it way up for the track…this idiot is just making it worse in both cases.
Coil-overs…knowing what you know now, the manufacturer can make one shock and put on several springs. You just adjust the damping for your spring you have installed. Another advantage for an adjustable shock is when the shock wares out…you can just increase the damping to compensate for the ware.
^ Just to make sure I understand what you said, let me rephrase.
Geometry aside:
- Springs, specifically the rate, control the ride comfort and responsiveness of the suspension. Or, in other words, how quickly your wheels respond to changes in the road, direction of your car, etc.
- Shocks work like a stabilizer, to stop the springs from endlessly moving. Shocks would be adjusted to match changes in your springs.
Understanding there are limits to this comparison, the same could be said about wheels & tires. You don't increase wheel width to increase traction, you increase the tire width. You increase wheel width if you go with significantly wider tires to compensate for the change.
Last, as with the majority of auto modifications, you will reduce the life of the whatever you're modifying by doing this. However small or large that change might be, the suspension will not last as long as if you were to leave it in it's original configuration.
Geometry aside:
- Springs, specifically the rate, control the ride comfort and responsiveness of the suspension. Or, in other words, how quickly your wheels respond to changes in the road, direction of your car, etc.
- Shocks work like a stabilizer, to stop the springs from endlessly moving. Shocks would be adjusted to match changes in your springs.
Understanding there are limits to this comparison, the same could be said about wheels & tires. You don't increase wheel width to increase traction, you increase the tire width. You increase wheel width if you go with significantly wider tires to compensate for the change.
Last, as with the majority of auto modifications, you will reduce the life of the whatever you're modifying by doing this. However small or large that change might be, the suspension will not last as long as if you were to leave it in it's original configuration.
Geometry aside:
- Springs, specifically the rate, control the ride comfort and responsiveness of the suspension. Or, in other words, how quickly your wheels respond to changes in the road, direction of your car, etc.
- Shocks work like a stabilizer, to stop the springs from endlessly moving. Shocks would be adjusted to match changes in your springs.
- Springs, specifically the rate, control the ride comfort and responsiveness of the suspension. Or, in other words, how quickly your wheels respond to changes in the road, direction of your car, etc.
- Shocks work like a stabilizer, to stop the springs from endlessly moving. Shocks would be adjusted to match changes in your springs.
Yes…
Understanding there are limits to this comparison, the same could be said about wheels & tires. You don't increase wheel width to increase traction, you increase the tire width. You increase wheel width if you go with significantly wider tires to compensate for the change.
Yes, but wider tires changes the shape of your contact patch to a more round instead of oval – along the direction of the car.
There are two sides to this coin…one; is because not too many people are qualified to properly engineer modifications / changes they attempt to do. And two; most of the time cars that are being modified are done so to go faster…you go faster, it puts a greater load on the car’s components and therefore ware them out quicker… So, I don’t necessarily agree with you here.
Cool and sounds good. And I realize my version has it's limits. The draw back to simplifying an explaination is it loses some of it's precision. I agree with your last statement. I was simply making a general observation.
We can add the H&R Sport Springs lineup as well.
http://hrsprings.com/scripts/appguid...Scion%20|%20tC
They look like they'll give a crazy raked look though...1.4" drop in the front and 1.3" in the rear?? The car is already raked enough.
http://hrsprings.com/scripts/appguid...Scion%20|%20tC
They look like they'll give a crazy raked look though...1.4" drop in the front and 1.3" in the rear?? The car is already raked enough.
Now that is a BS line if I’ve ever heard one…
Yes there is an industry standard…it’s called pounds per inch or lb/in!
Let’s not BS-up our table and not include them for now…if they ever change their minds, we’ll add them in then.
Any objections?
Yes there is an industry standard…it’s called pounds per inch or lb/in!
Let’s not BS-up our table and not include them for now…if they ever change their minds, we’ll add them in then.
Any objections?




