op4dc4

Hi everybody I got a tc 2011 and I am in canada so we got winter and all the anoying thing that come with it so I forget tein that goes to 2 inch .So this summer I feel the tc as a strong understeer when you try to get really inside a tight corner (a 90deg at intersection ) for exemple .Plus when i take a long corner but not as sharp like a 90deg,I found that the car goes in very well but in the middle of it ,it feel like the 4 tire kept the car on the ground but the body waving side to side.My question is this one :does the trd spring will erase those feelings?or put trd sway? or put a strut bar ?(I dont think putting this last one will affect anything of problem ).Thanks averyone for your answer because I read a lot of post on this site and I can't find any answer to that problem.

2tCornot2tC

Quote:

Originally Posted by op4dc4

… I feel the tc as a strong understeer when you try to get really inside a tight corner (a 90deg at intersection ) for exemple.

All cars are designed so they will under-steer all the time in any condition…so in some conditions, the under-steer can be quite severe. The TRD sway bars will help this quite a bit and a non-standard wheel alignment will solve it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by op4dc4

Plus when i take a long corner but not as sharp like a 90deg,I found that the car goes in very well but in the middle of it ,it feel like the 4 tire kept the car on the ground but the body waving side to side.

That is a sign that your shocks are too weak…putting on stiffer springs will just make it worse. To solve this symptom, you will have to go to race speck coil-over shock. The TRD strut brace will help significantly with solving this too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by op4dc4

does the trd spring will erase those feelings?or put trd sway? or put a strut bar ?

See above answers…

donsun

^ I think you meant to say under-steer instead of over-steer

2tCornot2tC

Yeah...I'll change it. Thanks!

op4dc4

thanks a lot your answer are very helpful so I will forget about coilover insted I will wait until somebody make stronger aftermarket shock because of all the holes in the street and snow in winter.but beginnig with the brace at low cost can be the best choice for now.

2tCornot2tC

I've got the TRD springs, TRD sway bars and the TRD tower brace on my car right now...they transformed the car...only the gripe is that the OEM shocks are too weak (not enough damping force). If I were to do it over again today, I would not buy the springs and go for TEIN coil-overs instead.

LiBrian456

sorry to start up a thread that has sorta died but i still have a little more questions concerning more of the coilovers side of this thread to kind of confirm what i have learned by reading this thread

lets say for example i get bc br coils, and with that they come with spring rates of 7k and 10k(on the chart it says kg/mm if that helps describe the situation) as well lets assume the dampening setting on the coils are turned all the way up

1st Q: ideally are you trying to match the times of the oscillations so that the back spring will stop oscillating as the front one stops.

2nd Q: does the dampener setting then fine tunes this oscillation time so that the springs work better together

3rd Q:if I say get 8k instead of 7k, would I then soften my dampening setting to get the same result as I got with the 7k?

2tCornot2tC

Quote:

Originally Posted by LiBrian456

1st Q: ideally are you trying to match the times of the oscillations so that the back spring will stop oscillating as the front one stops.

Not quite…too simplistic. One period of oscillation is one complete sine wave…first hump over your zero line and the second below…Starting at zero and ending at zero. That time interval is completely dependent on the spring rate (at the wheel) and that corner weight. Damping has nothing to do with the period of oscillation. Ideally you want the oscillations to subside within a cycle and a half. If you design your suspension for an average speed of 60-MPH, you will be traveling at 1056-in/sec. Since your wheelbase is 106.3-in, your rear wheels will hit the bump 0.100-seconds after your fronts will. You want your rear wheels to have a period of oscillation of 0.100-seconds less than the fronts. Now if your design speed (average) is 100-MPH, your rate will be 1760-in/sec and your rear wheels will hit that bump 0.060-seconds after your fronts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LiBrian456

2nd Q: does the dampener setting then fine tunes this oscillation time so that the springs work better together?

No…that time interval is completely dependent on the spring rate (at the wheel) and the corner weight…completely independent of the damping. Damping has nothing to do with the period of oscillation…only the amplitude of oscillation.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LiBrian456

3rd Q:if I say get 8k instead of 7k, would I then soften my dampening setting to get the same result as I got with the 7k?

No…exactly the opposite. The stiffer your springs the stronger your damping has to be to suppress the oscillation in a period and a half.

mkeple

Didn't there used to be a chart with all the different springs available for our cars with height, spri.g rate and cost right in it for convenience? This thread shouldn't even be stickied anymore.

uhsentc

No they don't. TRD/Toyota has other companies made for them. They usually chose a very conservative approach to select the product.

For example:
tc1, TRD CAI was made by AEM.

tc1, TRD Exhaust: I believe was made by Borla

tc1, TRD Sway bars: I believe was made by hotchkis,

tc1, TRD Srpings : I believe was made by Eibach

I really don't see how trd has "engineers"

The only products Im not sure who made it for TRD is the rims and the front strut bar. However these 2 are purely for cosmetics.

i'd never go with TRD products unless I can get them used for at least 50% and the purpose is to resale the car. If you have car loaded with TRD Products, you can get them all under 700, yet you can sell it for $1000 additional, and it's more attractive when selling your car in the ADs.

uhsentc

im beginning to think this guy works for Toyota, or used to.

the strut tie bar will do little to nothing for the tc.

it's been proven in tc1 and reviewed by a lot of people. The front struts are build so closely to the chassis, the whole chassis itself acts like a front strut tie bar.

uhsentc

DIY Video

Lowering Springs info

Make: Tein
Model: H Tech
Front Drop: .9
Rear Drop: 1.2
F Rate: 151
R Rate: 297

Make: Tein
Model: S Tech
Front Drop: 1.5
Rear Drop: 1.8
F Rate: 179
R Rate: 319

Make: Eibach
Model: Sportline
Front Drop: 1.3
Rear Drop: 1.7
F Rate: Progressive
R Rate: Progressive

Make: Eibach
Model: Pro-kit
Front Drop: 1
Rear Drop: 1
F Rate: Progressive
R Rate: Progressive

Make: H&R
Model: Sport
Front Drop: 1.4
Rear Drop: 1.3
F Rate: Progressive
R Rate: Progressive

Make: Toyota
Model: TRD
Front Drop: 1.3
Rear Drop: 1.3
F Rate: Linear (not given)
R Rate: Progressive

Make: Tanabe
Model: DF210
Front Drop: 1
Rear Drop: 1.5
F Rate: 145
R Rate: 252

Make: Megan Racing
Model:
Front Drop: 1.4
Rear Drop: 1.4
F Rate: None Given
R Rate: None Given

* All Drop Numbers are Inches
* F Rate= Front Spring Rates (measured lbs/in)
* R Rate = Rear Spring Rates (measured lbs/in)
* Progressive Spring Rate = Spring rate increases as more pressure are put on the springs. Normal driving will provide a comfortable ride. Aggressive turning will increase spring rate therefore give you the handle you need.

jcraff3

seeing how theres a chart here maybe someone can answer this question..i was wondering mostly out of curiosity, could u put front springs int he back? as in, is the only difference with saying front and back, just height? or is their a difference int he coil itself due to having to hold engine weight opposed to no engine weight etc

uhsentc

you can't, they have different setup. why would you want that though?

MelazaPR

How much time does it get to the trd springs to settle ? And btw Which springs has the lowest drop. Because so far I'm not liking the drop

naresh

Quality springs like trd don't settle. Look at the specs on different springs and you'll be able to figure it out.

disaster06

Probably tein s tech goes lowest. Ride gets floaty though and is more show than go. TRD are the best for performance.

zerosky

well how much of a drop are you looking for?
can check out the Eibach sportline, they are .3 lower in the front and .7 lower in the rear

draxcaliber

when it comes to handling, lower doesn't automatically equal better. and please don't do something stupid like cutting the springs.

Thermos2003

You can go lower than the TRD, but seeing as there is very limited supply as far as aftermarket shocks go, you'll be trashing shocks/struts pretty quickly with S-techs or anything similarly low.

Why can't a company make aftermarket shocks for the tC2 like they did for the tC1?