Install wasn't bad. All you need is:

jack
jack stands
14mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
21mm or 7/8in socket
wratchet wrench
9/16 crescent wrench
spring compressor (rented mine from O'Rielly's)

No interior panels have to be removed. All outside work. The rear is the easiest and took only about 30 minutes for each. The rear springs are not wrapped around the strut. In the front, the strut has to be removed. Be sure to have a breaker bar for the two bolts holding the strut in place because they are tight as hell. Other than that, piece of cake.

 

I'm fighting the urge to buy springs tonight...

 

Why?! Why must they be lower in the back?!

 

The end product does not look lower. It looks even as a finished product.

 

They are simple enough to change out the springs. I didn't even get a spring compressor I just man handled them except one that I loaded and used a bunch of tie wraps to hold down... That is if they are similar to the tC 1

 

I didn't use them on the rear because they were not wrapped around the strut. I simply lowered the controlling arm until the spring was decompressed and was able to be removed. I did use the compressors in the front (which were wrapped around a strut). If you can man handle them to remove them, more power to you, but I don't advise it. The stock springs were fairly tight and I would recommend using the spring compressors in order to avoid accidental injuries. If you can get the tools to complete the job safely, then do...

Mod safely.

 

Old trick: Unbolt the center nut of the strut/spring assembly before removing the suspension from the car, then jack the car up. The weight of the car will allow the spring to be removed from the assembly without the need of a spring compressor. Also, by doing it this way you dont have to unbolt the tophat from the strut tower. I have done several cars this way, works everytime without fail.

 

Love randomly reading little jewels like this..

 

did u get ur car aligned immediatly? or did u wait?

 

Still waiting. Going to get an alignment soon.

 

I broke down and ordered a set of S. Techs... waiting on coils is killing me, So I'll ride on springs till something gets released then swap over...

 

lol... It gets to us all eventaully. I'm thinking of selling a kidney for a five axis lip kit

 

Forgive my ignorance, but why would you have to replace the springs with a full coilover package? Why not just buy the upgraded shocks when they come out? Seems like buying S-techs and throwing in upgraded shocks later is a pretty good way to go...

 

Coilovers are ride height adjustable, springs on shocks are not. Plus the 1.5f and 1.8r drop is not enough for me, the coil specs I saw were at like 2.5f and 2.6r at maximum drop...

 

Makes sense. Lifting a truck you can use springs, shocks or both to get the lift you want. Guess I just assumed the same held true for lowering a car. Thanks for the info.

 

Noticed no one responded with the stock ride height. Where are you measuring and I'll make sure I measure from the same point.

 

hopefully i can install my stechs friday. ill get pics up rught after. also does anyone know the bulb size for the license plate lights in the 2011? wanna do led's

 

Ordered my H-techs yesterday!

 

194 wedge base. A 1W T10 ultra bright white looks nice. Its what I have on mine.

 

I was told not to bother with springs.
Two buddies told me not to use aftermarket springs over the stock dampers b/c they're not designed for the lowered height and varied compression rates.

Then again, I'm new to this whole thing and, considering my lack of knowledge in cars, I'm still confused with the terms coilovers, struts, dampers and shocks. There might be synonyms in there

Basically what they told me is that the stock suspension set isn't designed for the variations (height, etc..) the springs alone can bring. True or false?