Best stereo and speaker system?
#2
Crutchfield: Car Stereo, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, 4k TV
work it with your budget
Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675X2
Sound Ordnance B-8PTD
Pioneer TS-T110 those required a lil soldering and removing the bracket from the OE tweeters. bolts right up!
and a kenwood single din hu with a usb on the back...
work it with your budget
Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675X2
Sound Ordnance B-8PTD
Pioneer TS-T110 those required a lil soldering and removing the bracket from the OE tweeters. bolts right up!
and a kenwood single din hu with a usb on the back...
#6
The better the equipment the more expensive it is, this typically means the better quality it is as well.. So spending 300.000 on a full setup every 2 years is more expensive than spending 600.00 upfront.. I have had systems in my cars since 1990, and i will tell you right now, you get what you pay for.
If you don't want to go crazy, but just want a head unit and speakers, internal door speakers, if you spend less than 300.00 for the full set, you are buying things that will need to be redone, over and over again.. You are better off buying quality stuff, and just do it once.. Unless you are going to toss the car soon, than buy whatever..
Stereo's..
Pioneer
Kenwood
Stay away from JVC, Sony, Rockford, Panasonic, and whatever other knock off brands they make these days..
JVC's use internal mosphet components, they over heat, and fry themselves out.
Sony's have quality issues
Rockford is owned by Sony
Panasonic only makes good car stereos in the 500+ dollar range, and they aren't as good as a 75.00 Pioneer.
The more basic one's are better..
If it has a motorized face, or color changing, they tend to last less time, and wear out faster.
Internal door speakers, they vary..
Kenwood makes a good 3-way, while Pioneer makes good 2 and 4 ways.
Sony makes one's better for mid-bass, but you will need to get some speaker savers, or enclose the door speakers for those to matter.. otherwise your door panels will just rattle.
Subs..
Sealed box's hit cleaner, but require more power to really shake things.
More expensive subs are typically physically lighter, and have much better heat displacing magnets. Alpine R series subs are rated at 500Watts, but the RMS is what matters, which is about 150watts. If you ran 500Watts to them, the first few hits would be fine, but after some time you could literally light the cones on fire.
AMPS--
You will want a mono-block if you are just going to run a sub, or two off of it.
You can probably just buy a SOLO-L7 12, and a decent amp, and you could have that sub for 10+ years without ever needing another one. They take a beating, and are free-air speakers, which means you don't need a huge box. Less weight, and you can still use your trunk.
Another is JL Audio, which makes some fantastic subs, and they too will take a beating, but are generally more expensive. If i were you i would set aside components, and buy them as you save, get the amps, than the subs, than the speakers, than the deck, than the wiring, than a weekend to put it all in, with some extra cash to get whatever additional you will need to make things all work together.
EDIT:
Current System:
Two Solobaric Classic's 15in
Custom Box
Two 1500zx Monoblock Kicker Amps
Two 100 Farad Caps
Two Yellow Top batteries
0 guage Gold plated Cable to second yellow top and 6 gauge cable to caps, to amps.
Custom Rack for Amps
7 Alpine Components (4 additional Tweeters)
Wired to 1ohm
5.1 Channel Kicker Competition AMP Wired to door speakers
2 15In Fold down Monitors
1 Xbox360
1 7in In dash Touch screen Pioneer with DVD
Alternator out of Sienna Minivan
Can crack pavement
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