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Hey, guys! Just wanted to drop a small intro/progress thread. Last month I picked up a 2005 xA autotragic w/ 130k on the clock. It’s early, but so far the car is proving to be a fun little econobox. As luck would have it, a 2006.5 model in the same color also came up for $300 (exterior in pretty bad shape + back fees), so I bought it as a donor and have been plucking gems from it as time goes on.
When I bought my xA, it already had tinted windows, a brand new windshield, Hotchkis front strut brace, AEM CAI, and new(ish) speakers installed. The car was FILTHY when I bought it so the deep cleaning has been a slow lengthy process which is on going. Here’s a pic from when I first got it:
Mods I’ve done recently include 2006.5 taillights, gauge cluster (swapped circuit board to retain accurate mileage), front grille, and steering wheel with volume controls. I also took off the long section of the CAI, effectively yielding a SRI setup. I’ve been accumulating parts already and will add to the thread as they are installed.
Thanks a bunch to all the members new and old who’ve contributed to this forum! It’s been an invaluable resource and I’m glad pertinent info continues to be available all these years since the xA stopped production.
I bought the cover from Ebay. It’s split grain leather on the underside and some kind of vinyl-ish material on top. Had to glue the cover down at the spokes and stapled it behind the side covers. Was a real bear that took 3+ hours, but since it’s a high focal and touch point, definitely worth it!
Alright….had an interesting thing happen today. I’m putting it here in case it helps anyone else since searching the site didn’t get me the info I needed. Anyway, I got ye olde check engine light today with code P0724 and my brake lights + 3rd brake light were staying on, even when parked and no key in the ignition. My 1st internet search indicated that the LED reverse bulbs I had installed several weeks ago might be the culprit. So, I put the OE ones back in and no change.
Thus, I searched the web again and found a post saying it was a bad bulb with touching filaments that was causing the problem. Again, I changed the brake light bulbs and still no dice. Then I checked the 10 amp mini fuses under the dash. They were good. After yet another internet search, I finally found a video that would show me the solution.
Turns out the little plastic pad that the brake light switch makes contact with finally bit the dust after 20 years. You can see it in the pic below in green. I might have known since I noticed weird green plastic bits in the floor board this morning, but I didn’t put 2 and 2 together.
I believe the Toyota part # is 90541-06036, however they can be found on Amazon if you search for “Toyota brake switch pad.” While you’re waiting for the part, you can tape some coins in place temporarily. Alternatively, you could install a small hex bolt and nut and essentially never worry about it failing again.
A small update on the “rollerskate”: new suspension installed. I opted for H&R sport springs paired up with the Koni STR-T struts. Past experience has shown this combo to be best suited for spirited daily driving. I think it hits a good spot between sport handling and ride comfort. There still is a bit more body roll than I’d like, so a rear sway bar may be in order, but for now, it’s quite a noticeable improvement!
Alright….had an interesting thing happen today. I’m putting it here in case it helps anyone else since searching the site didn’t get me the info I needed. Anyway, I got ye olde check engine light today with code P0724 and my brake lights + 3rd brake light were staying on, even when parked and no key in the ignition. My 1st internet search indicated that the LED reverse bulbs I had installed several weeks ago might be the culprit. So, I put the OE ones back in and no change.
Thus, I searched the web again and found a post saying it was a bad bulb with touching filaments that was causing the problem. Again, I changed the brake light bulbs and still no dice. Then I checked the 10 amp mini fuses under the dash. They were good. After yet another internet search, I finally found a video that would show me the solution.
Turns out the little plastic pad that the brake light switch makes contact with finally bit the dust after 20 years. You can see it in the pic below in green. I might have known since I noticed weird green plastic bits in the floor board this morning, but I didn’t put 2 and 2 together.
I believe the Toyota part # is 90541-06036, however they can be found on Amazon if you search for “Toyota brake switch pad.” While you’re waiting for the part, you can tape some coins in place temporarily. Alternatively, you could install a small hex bolt and nut and essentially never worry about it failing again.
I had a similar problem on my 2005, I ended up buying some aftermarket replacements and switched every single one of them. I came home on my motorcycle one day and noticed my brake lights were on, thought it was the switch and ordered a replacement. After I changed it out and the problem still persisted, so I took a closer look and noticed the missing pad.
Checking in with another update! Today the rollerskate got new wheels and tires. I went with 15x7.5 Konig hypergrams and some Falken all season rubber. I also battled the front sway bar bushings, but emerged victorious with a little help from a C-clamp. After these upgrades, turn in is noticeably better and the car feels much more planted. Next up: Hoping to get my Ultragauge installed tomorrow.
Got the Ultragauge installed a few days ago. I was surprised at how easy it was to install and set up. Got it mainly to monitor coolant temps since all we get is a dummy light, but it’s already showing its usefulness. Yesterday it sounded an audible alarm with notification of pending fault code P0456. Now I get to hunt down an evap leak.
Got the Ultragauge installed a few days ago. I was surprised at how easy it was to install and set up. Got it mainly to monitor coolant temps since all we get is a dummy light, but it’s already showing its usefulness. Yesterday it sounded an audible alarm with notification of pending fault code P0456. Now I get to hunt down an evap leak.
Did you figure out the EVAP leak? The little bit of hose between the hardline on the firewall, and the solenoid on the airbox cracked on mine and I got that same code for it. It was about $2 at a local auto parts store to get another length of hose.
Nah, didn’t find the leak. I reset the code and it didn’t come back. Thanks for the tip on that baby hose, though. Will likely do all my rubbers when I change out the valve cover gasket and vvti solenoid pretty soon.