In all of my searching on this board, I have not seen a good thread about rebuilding the 1NZFE, especially for normal aspiration. If I am wrong, please point it out to me. I do not want to read about engine swapping or FI. I have my reasons for considering this project as I am sure do others. Further, this is research for now until I decide that it will be worthwhile. As much as I ask to the contrary, I am sure there will be a ton a of flames.

1NZ-FE work will be expensive considering the mild performance gains. Other engines have much better gains for less money, but then most of those engines hog fuel. My goals are to increase performance without (or only mildly) decreasing fuel economy and to learn more about building engines for performance. I plan on working on a more serious car (260Z) when I have a better place to work and more experience. Further, I see this project as a challenge.

Of course, I am not committed to this project yet. I am still planning and considering what the results will be compared to the cost. Just for the record, I am not expecting to outrun more powerful cars, but I want to maximize my xA's strong points: fun and utility.

My engine plans are to:
1) Maintain normal aspiration
2) Increase compression
3) Minimize power loss
4) Maintain reliability

Considered modifications:

Possibly some other things, but it's already an expensive list. About $2-3k in fact.

Please suggest brands offering quality parts or other components to add to the list.
Please add your results if you have tried any of the above modifications.


I will modify this post as my research continues and according to feedback.

Thanks!

 

Can anyone vouch for Clutchmasters or Fidanza's flywheel?
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=101956

 

Sounds like fun! It doesn't cost a fortune to mill a head for more compression. Check around at local hot rod shops or machinists before you commit to ZPI doing it. Not sure what their price is and if it's high, low, or right on. Just saying it's an option.

Also, if anyone is worried about tanking their motor with modifications, if you do, I have found MANY complete 1NZ-FE's at junk yards from $350 to $550. Not as much as most would think, and cheaper than a forged build hehe.

Anyway, continue on.

 

what about boring the throttle body?

 

Thanks for the suggestion.

I do not know much about that yet, but from what I have read, it can adversely affect performance if you port too much.
Someone on an Echo forum is polishing up and coating the inside of his TB.
The TB is tapered to increase fluid velocity, since I will not be using FI, altering the taper could have undesirable effects.
Sounds like polishing and port matching could be worthwhile, at the very least.

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTBboring.htm
http://www.echodrivers.com/forums/vi...=throttle+body


As a side note, I will be dumping links in here even if I have not gone over them closely yet. I am using this thread as a library for myself as well as others and to get ideas rolling.

 

Definitely fun, but insane too!

ZPI is projecting around $550 for the P&P and an undisclosed cost for the milling.
I figured that it could be done at a competitive price if I searched around, but ZPI is going to be making 1NZFE head work a regular business which will give them the advantage of experience. Plus, for more experience, ZPI has supposedly been fooling about with this engine.

Yes, I figured that the 1NZ-FE should be cheap to come by. Not that many people are into building it. Were the engines out already? I am guessing that they were from wrecks?
I have been considering getting an engine to work on rather than rushing to get my engine out, torn down, built back up, and reinsterted in under a week. I am doing as much of this myself, so I do not want to rush!

Please post cars that have the 1nzfe and include the country.
So far,I know of:

Anyone got any feedback or performance info on Clutchmasters or the Fidanza flywheel?
I saw a chart today that made me realize that I need more reasearch as to the value of a lighter flywheel.

 

As far as i've read on SL, a lighter flywheel = less rotational mass and less work the engine has to do to generate its power to the wheels. While a lighter flywheel does not 'create' more HP, it does free some up somewhat? Just what I've read. I believe they'll say quicker throttle response as well.

 

This is a good thread, Ive been looking to do the same and for the same reasons as proctorsilex. not to make the car fly but beat your average civic or other scions, I hope to get 200hp out of the hole thing when its done and maybe consider some nitrous too

 

One question that I have not seen adressed is the camshaft. Has anyone found a company that can regrind or produce new cams that are close to stock specs for the low speed and more aggressive for the upper range? I can see the value of going to I/H/E but I think a different cam would be an added benifit. I have searched a few cam sites, but have not found any cams for our engines. Has anyone had any luck? Or would this cause confusion to our CPU's. If they (CPU's)are as smart as some people say, could they learn to work with a slightly more aggressive cam, as they also learn to work with the other components.

 

Yes, that's what everyone here has been saying. However, I was looking for some information regarding HP loss in the drive train (why it's a percentage rather than constant) for a different thread, when I came across this description: http://www.superstang.com/horsepower.htm
The author mentions an article considering whether the lighter flywheels are worthwhile. He included a HAZY graph showing some results. Just makes me think that I need to learn more about it before sinking in $3-400.

I'll see what I can do by next week so as not to unnecessarily miss out on the Fidanza sale that I linked above.

 

Try some searching on this forum and echo driver. I know that I have seen mention of cam grinding, but it's definitely custom work.

I was going to include this link soon anyway: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_NZ_engine
It has some BASIC 1NZ-FE and VVT-i info.

If you want to improve high end cam, it sounds like VVT-i will allow you to do that without affecting low end economy and emissions control. Please correct me if I am wrong, I have not ground a cam before nor have I seen the actual VVT-i cam implementation to know with certainty.

 

I have seen a lot of whining on this forum regarding the lack of drop in ECU replacements for our engines.
I have presume that they are right. I have not done any searching for one nor has anyone mentioned anything to the contrary.

I am doubtful as to the suitability of the Echo ECU for real performance.

We need to do some work here to make up for the lack of drop in replacement!

I first found out about the MegaSquirt II on zcar.com a year ago.
The MS2 should be capable of working for us, but we need to make it fit. That's the beauty of the MS and MS2: it has the potential to fit ANY engine.
http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/
The MS2 is supposedly capable of EFI and ignition control.
More info as I figure it out.

I have also seen another system when I was looking up the MS link: http://www.ontronic-efi.com/
I have not read anything about the Ontronic yet!

 

i can vouch for the clutchmaster clutch.
very solid. no slipping or grabbing. just a good clean engaugement.
very little noise at idle.

the lightweight flywheel is also a good buy.
problem is from its light weight, less rotational mass causes the motor to stall easier.

 

I had a act flywheel a crx I had and love it, it had tons more throttle response the only two things I notice on the bad side were 1 you need to shift really fast cuz the rpm's drop quick so you need a good clutch to catch it and 2 easy wheel spin, but when on nitrous the car moved hard

 

/\/\ 10.5:1



Those plans are all nice, but someone's forgetting the transaxle is a weak twinkie.

 

What do you mean about the 10.5:1? That's the stock compression, yes.

What do the FI people do about that?
Where is the weak link there? Is there anything to do about it or just let your transaxle wear quicker? What I mean is is there one particular component that is weak or the transaxle overall?
Anyone have any info on the limits of the stock unit?

I've been meaning to look into that, but there's so much to research!

That reminds me of Ghostbusters:

Dr. Egon Spengler: I'm worried, Ray. All my readings point to something big on the horizon.
Winston Zeddemore: What do you mean, big?
Dr. Egon Spengler: Well, let's say this Twinkie represents the normal amount of psychokinetic energy in the New York area. Based on this morning's reading, it would be a Twinkie thirty-five feet long, weighing approximately six hundred pounds.
Winston Zeddemore: That's a big Twinkie.

 

I did a bit more research on VVT-i and cams tonight, but mainly the former.

VVT-i info:
http://www.echodrivers.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=503
http://www.autozine.org/technical_sc...gine/vvt_1.htm
http://www.echodrivers.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5560

I rescind my earlier statement about grinding the cams without affecting low end economy. VVT-i controls the timing of the intake valve to optimize timing throughout the useful range of engine speeds. VVTL-i sounds way cooler, but we don't have that

This site has some starter info in general:
http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/tech_index.htm

So, I am not so certain that cam grinding would be the best option unless you have a particular application to tune for and you don't care much about anything else. I read a rumor on this forum or echodriver that ZPI might be doing some cam work eventually.... but I won't hold my breath.

Unless someone comes out with replacement cams, I am more interested in controlling VVT-i:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=62854

For fuel injection "control", there's the S-AFC:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13182
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2091
http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electronics.asp

I am wondering if the MegaSquirt II + Camcon would be a good idea....

Some engine specs:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...er=asc&start=0
http://www.echodrivers.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6949

 

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=67782

I have only read the first and last pages of the above. Will read ASAP.

 

The member that posted above me originally asked what the stock compression was, then edited thier post.

 

No worries, Prototype_xB.

I have been trying to decide on the clutch and flywheel now as the aforementioned offer sounds like a good price. I'm hoping he'll still sell for that.
Flywheels first. Specifically, flywheels for the Wankel rotary in a 1982 Mazda 12A engine:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-writng.htm
http://www.mazdatrix.com/flywheel.htm
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...counterweights

The rotary engine was the first thing that I got a lead on when searching. I think that the flywheel issues should apply just as well to a piston engine.

Anyway, lets compare flywheel weights for the 12A and what one seller has to say about applications:

Granted, those statements are for a different product line than what we have available, but the ratios provide us with some ball park figures. I think that I am interested in the 70% range.
Unfortunately, there are other things to consider like inertia, which has more to do with mass distribution than net mass.
http://www.ac.wwu.edu/~vawter/Physic...ntInertia.html

http://www.echodrivers.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3206

There's also the issue of balance. Someone recommended Fidanza over others for balance quality.

I have not read anyone complain about a sub 10 pound flywheel on our engines, but I have seen a couple of people who dumped theirs after trying it out.

I think I will start another thread on flywheel availability and recommendations. Suppliers have not been providing enough info for us to make a good decision. I don't like working blind.