Hello!

Im interested in buying an Agency Power crank pulley for the box. I was wondering if people had any problems with them once they were installed using the old bolt and pin. Does the screw always get stripped and loose, or is that just sometimes?

Also, can anybody give me the official name/parts number for the crank pulley pin and bolt. I may want to buy a new one just in case.

 

i just got mine installed by my local tuner shop this week. no problems with it so far. plus, the shop is EXTREMELY reputable with their work and service, so if there was any problem with the bolt and pin, they would have told me.

 

I did not have any problems with the bolt stripping. But my pin did break, due to the pulley being installed wrong. Toyota was nice enough to replace it for me while they were in fixing another problem with the car.

 

Thanks for the help...how can u tell if the pin breaks?

 

I didn't know mine was broke until Toyota told me, but Lastlookcustoms on here was dynoing his car and saw his Pulley woobiling, when his pin broke(if I remeber correctly).

 

looks good

 

never had a problem with mine.

Keith

 

broke my pin but used a piece of hardened steel as a replacement.

 

how did your pins break? did you break it on the install?

 

indeed i did.

 

When this happenes does it create a high piched squeel like a belt slipping? I picked up a n undrive crank pulley off ebay and have had nothing but problems with the belt slipping. It looks to me like the belt groves are too sharp so the belt doesn't seat well. 3 belts later and I still have the same problem. Once a week I have to pull the belt out and soak it in belt conditioner, then it'll work well for about 500 miles, thenI got to do it again. It's getting way old.

 

if you have an underdrive pulley and ae using stock belt the chances of it being loose are much higher.

 

I've tried the stock, a smaller belt and the smaller Gatorback. Oddly the gatorback was the fastest to start making noise. I've even tried sanding down the peaks of the pulley trying to gain some contact area with no luck. I guess now I need a new pulley. I'm hunting now for the cheapest place to get a Unortodox or agency pulley. I don't want the Perrin. I have a chargng issue in the car where the alternaotr puts a huge load on the engine so it shudders, the underdrive pulley did fix that. Not I just have to keep the stereo blasting to cover up the belt squeeking. At first I thought it might have sheared the key but it's still there.
this is the one I bought, I'd suggest spending the $50 more for one of the others this thing looks to become my desk paperweight
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SCION...QQcmdZViewItem

The belts not loose that's for sure. I've been using a 15 inch breaker bar to put tension on it It's so tight the belt idler should have snapped by now.

 

partshippers.com is doing $114 for the agency power one right now...

 

theres no idler pulleys on our engines

 

Then what do you call the big pulley above the A/c below the alt that just spins?

Evosky thanks for the link but none of those pulley's are underdriven I guess I'm stuck with orthodox?

I pulled the belt off again today for the 16th time in 2 months, within 3 minutes it was squeeking again. I was going to wait a week or two before ordering a new pulley but I guess I'll have to do it this week. I still have about an inch left on the alt braket to go before I can't adjust it any further but I think I've put so much tension on it that the 'idler' pulley is now screwed up. When I had the belt off I spun that idler and it felt like rubber rubbing on the inside of the pulley, I'da know personally I'm suprized I have not broken the alternator.

 

i'd run the perrin pulley no problems for me. underdriving my ac , and alternator don't sound like fun to me.

 

i agree with hotbox and recommend NOT underdriving. companies claim their underdriven pullies don't underdrive enough to do any damage, but any amount of underdriving introduces another risk into the drivetrain and engine drive system, which can prove dangerous for future failure. this was pretty much the same sentiment i got from my local tuner shop guys who asked me if my pulley was underdriven before they installed. of course the Agency is just lightened, so they said good and to stay away from anything underdriven.

if you do choose to underdrive, upgrade that battery ASAP.
unorthodox racing makes one for the xB, and i think NST also makes one...

 

The battery was the first thing I upgraded, it's got a 1000 cca Stinger dry cell. I made my own ground wire kit in hopes of that helping as well. but the stereo places a 60 amp constant load (due to my wife not understanding what any other volume is other than MAX) I have a 4 farrard cap to the amp but before the underdrive pulley when the a/c was on and the engine fan turned on the entire car would feel like it was going to die. It'd drop to about 500 rpm and shake violently for about a second then recover and go back to normal. (I have a couple posts on this) The underdrive pulley was the only thing to accually help. I can watch the voltage dip when the fan comes on. The alternator is placing such a load on the engine it effects the idle. It's very possible the alternator is messed up at this point but if it was 'burnt' it shouldn't place a strain on the motor. (I owned my own Stereo shop for 11 years and installed that whole time so I do have a bit of background in this so I understand what it's doing and why it's doing it.). I think at idle the stock alternator doesn't put out enough amps to run the car, a/c, engine fan, blower motor for the a/c, lights and a 60 amp load for the stereo. What I might do is have the alternator wound to about 160 amps (but this in turn will place a larger load on the engine, effecting milage and horse power). I've been trying to find a larger stock Toyota alternator but so far have not had much luck. I plan on under driving the alt (to lessen the load) but get a larger alt to increase the power it is putting out. The large wires in the car (usually 8 or 4 gauge) have been replaced with Stinger 4 and 2 gauge wires in hoipes of upping the current. I'm starting to give up on this car sadly (though I just put 2 bulk packs of Dynomat in it last weekend, it's quiet like a Lexus now!

 

ah, you have a lot more knowledge than me in these automotive electrical systems. interesting to learn about your experience though.

is that dynomat stuff heavy ? i want to deaden the sound a bit but am leery of the weight that the deadening material adds on to the car... (sorry for going off topic)