Crankshaft Pulley pin sheered off..
11-09-2018, 05:29 AM
#1
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Crankshaft Pulley pin sheered off..
About a week ago the key that goes through the main drive pulley sheered off and the bolt eventually backed out causing me to lose drive on all my belts...I called the Toyota dealership and was able to get a replacement Pin and bolt... but it seems like they either gave me the wrong part, or the hole for the current one has been drilled out (Which I'd imagine would be extremely hard to do with a basic drill)
So looking to replace it with something that is going to last. I was thinking about finding keystock that fits properly and cutting it to length. The current key I got from Toyota barely fits (way too short)
has anyone else had this issue? I've Googled and got one 2 results which didn't lead to much help...
This is for a 2005 Scion xB, btw.
So looking to replace it with something that is going to last. I was thinking about finding keystock that fits properly and cutting it to length. The current key I got from Toyota barely fits (way too short)
has anyone else had this issue? I've Googled and got one 2 results which didn't lead to much help...
This is for a 2005 Scion xB, btw.
11-09-2018, 02:18 PM
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I'm guessing what actually happened is the bolt backed out first and that allowed the pulley to start wobbling and 'egging' out the hole for the crankshaft pin and that's why the new one doesn't fit.
You could try to find round stock that fits the hole but I would imagine you'd need some pretty healthy stock so it didn't snap and lead you right back to where you are now. The other option might be to see if you can find a kit, I've seen them come with some of the centrifugal supercharger kits, that provides a template for drilling a new hole for the key/pin. This is typically used when you're adding a second keyway but you might be able to find something out there that works for you.
Was it the stock pulley on the car or an aftermarket lightened/underdrive pulley that had been installed on it...pictures might help also.
You could try to find round stock that fits the hole but I would imagine you'd need some pretty healthy stock so it didn't snap and lead you right back to where you are now. The other option might be to see if you can find a kit, I've seen them come with some of the centrifugal supercharger kits, that provides a template for drilling a new hole for the key/pin. This is typically used when you're adding a second keyway but you might be able to find something out there that works for you.
Was it the stock pulley on the car or an aftermarket lightened/underdrive pulley that had been installed on it...pictures might help also.
11-10-2018, 01:21 AM
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Pretty sure I am screwed, coz I drilled the old one out and another post suggested not to do that... so NOW I have to find a key stock that will fit the now larger hole - No idea where I will find it at.
11-10-2018, 02:24 PM
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At this point you might be better off drilling a new hole, that fits the pin you got from Toyota, directly opposite the 'old' hole...if I were you I would go to Home Depot/Lowe's and get a large washer or two that the crank pulley bolt can pass through and then drill a hole in the washer(s) that's the same size you need for the pin, use the crank pulley bolt to bolt your washer jig to the crank and re-drill.
11-10-2018, 02:53 PM
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At this point you might be better off drilling a new hole, that fits the pin you got from Toyota, directly opposite the 'old' hole...if I were you I would go to Home Depot/Lowe's and get a large washer or two that the crank pulley bolt can pass through and then drill a hole in the washer(s) that's the same size you need for the pin, use the crank pulley bolt to bolt your washer jig to the crank and re-drill.
11-11-2018, 04:28 PM
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If you choose to sell it you're definitely not going to get too much for a car that doesn't run...you'd be better off either buying a drill and bits that will work or have it towed to a garage that could perform the fix for you. You'd be far better off than trying to sell it 'as-is' for what amounts to a relatively easy fix.
11-18-2018, 09:30 PM
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I ordered stainless steel grade 316 dowels from Fastenal and a new harmonic balancer. Cleaned up the crank and dowel pin hole, applied some medium strength threadlocker and torqued it down.. Let's hope it last.
11-25-2018, 12:43 PM
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If you have to get back in there again... A few other places you may be able to try are
Graingers - link to pins page - These guys have a lot of local stores, they won't have it in stock, but you can save on shipping
McMaster Carr - Link to main page - Pins are in that top line
MSC - Link to pins page - Another industrial supply company - I bet there are more
A word about materials.
300 series stainless is usually soft - about the same strength as aluminum - unless it has been cold worked, so you want to look for the yield stress level if it's given or the words 1/2 hard, fully hard etc to get a cold worked or harder pin. 400 series stainless is generally hardened
I looked at the materials in MSC solid pin page, which you have to scroll down for, and they show a 4140 and grade 8 material. These are steel and very high strength.
Using the thread locker is a good idea - also spread it thinly over the mating face of the crankshaft end.
While the pulleys will generally see a load in one direction, the harmonic damper will have oscillating loads as the free floating ring reacts thru the fluid or rubber in the damper. That is probably what got things loose.
Good luck
Graingers - link to pins page - These guys have a lot of local stores, they won't have it in stock, but you can save on shipping
McMaster Carr - Link to main page - Pins are in that top line
MSC - Link to pins page - Another industrial supply company - I bet there are more
A word about materials.
300 series stainless is usually soft - about the same strength as aluminum - unless it has been cold worked, so you want to look for the yield stress level if it's given or the words 1/2 hard, fully hard etc to get a cold worked or harder pin. 400 series stainless is generally hardened
I looked at the materials in MSC solid pin page, which you have to scroll down for, and they show a 4140 and grade 8 material. These are steel and very high strength.
Using the thread locker is a good idea - also spread it thinly over the mating face of the crankshaft end.
While the pulleys will generally see a load in one direction, the harmonic damper will have oscillating loads as the free floating ring reacts thru the fluid or rubber in the damper. That is probably what got things loose.
Good luck
11-25-2018, 06:52 PM
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So far so good. Replaced the balancer, my own pin and bolt and torqued it down with threadlocker 242 medium strength... did a 250+ mile trip of highway and city driving yesterday without issue, Not to mention all the city driving I did over the last couple of days. I'm going to keep a close eye on it - Coz if it sheers the pin I used to replace with, I'm SOL coz I don't think I'll be able to drill through it.
11-26-2018, 10:15 PM
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If you have to get back in there again... A few other places you may be able to try are
Graingers - link to pins page - These guys have a lot of local stores, they won't have it in stock, but you can save on shipping
McMaster Carr - Link to main page - Pins are in that top line
MSC - Link to pins page - Another industrial supply company - I bet there are more
A word about materials.
300 series stainless is usually soft - about the same strength as aluminum - unless it has been cold worked, so you want to look for the yield stress level if it's given or the words 1/2 hard, fully hard etc to get a cold worked or harder pin. 400 series stainless is generally hardened
I looked at the materials in MSC solid pin page, which you have to scroll down for, and they show a 4140 and grade 8 material. These are steel and very high strength.
Using the thread locker is a good idea - also spread it thinly over the mating face of the crankshaft end.
While the pulleys will generally see a load in one direction, the harmonic damper will have oscillating loads as the free floating ring reacts thru the fluid or rubber in the damper. That is probably what got things loose.
Good luck
Graingers - link to pins page - These guys have a lot of local stores, they won't have it in stock, but you can save on shipping
McMaster Carr - Link to main page - Pins are in that top line
MSC - Link to pins page - Another industrial supply company - I bet there are more
A word about materials.
300 series stainless is usually soft - about the same strength as aluminum - unless it has been cold worked, so you want to look for the yield stress level if it's given or the words 1/2 hard, fully hard etc to get a cold worked or harder pin. 400 series stainless is generally hardened
I looked at the materials in MSC solid pin page, which you have to scroll down for, and they show a 4140 and grade 8 material. These are steel and very high strength.
Using the thread locker is a good idea - also spread it thinly over the mating face of the crankshaft end.
While the pulleys will generally see a load in one direction, the harmonic damper will have oscillating loads as the free floating ring reacts thru the fluid or rubber in the damper. That is probably what got things loose.
Good luck
I'm looking at dowel pins on Grainger... and they have 303 Stainless Steel, Alloy Steel, Hardened Steel, and steel. Which out of all of those would be best? And does anyone know the size of the actual dowel pin? Coz 1/8 seems just a little too loose. Maybe it's some kind of metric size?
11-27-2018, 07:24 PM
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It looks like they only have 3 & 4mm pins. 1/8" = 3.175mm. 5/32" = 3.969mm and I'm pretty sure they would be metric
so the hole has probably been beaten open a bit if the 1/8" is loose.
If you have to go back in, try measuring the hole diameter using the blunt end of a drill bit
It may be possible to use a spring pin or a tapered pin to get a tight fit
so the hole has probably been beaten open a bit if the 1/8" is loose.
If you have to go back in, try measuring the hole diameter using the blunt end of a drill bit
It may be possible to use a spring pin or a tapered pin to get a tight fit
11-27-2018, 11:27 PM
#13
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Wouldn't a spring pin be even weaker since it's hollow?
What's the best material that Grainger sells I could use? I'm going to redo it eventually. It's been holding fine so far, but I wanna re-do it and future-proof it
What's the best material that Grainger sells I could use? I'm going to redo it eventually. It's been holding fine so far, but I wanna re-do it and future-proof it
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