indexing spark plugs
What is it your trying to accomplish by indexing the plugs?
You having a problem with detonation?
You trying to get more power?
You getting fouled plugs?
You can index them but what is it your looking for as a final result?
I did alot of research on plugs and our cars so I might be able to help.
You having a problem with detonation?
You trying to get more power?
You getting fouled plugs?
You can index them but what is it your looking for as a final result?
I did alot of research on plugs and our cars so I might be able to help.
Then if your looking to go that route here is a suggestion for ya.
Use a plug that opens the flame kernal into the center of the combustion chamber , away from the intake. The in coming A/F mixture will cool the electrodes , could cause fouling.
The plug should be as open as possible ( wider gap or smaller electrodes , both happen with Iridium plugs ) or you could open it up by using a side gapped plug ( requires a little modding to the plugs )
you can also use just plain old copper ( stock plugs for 1st gen) , keep them clean and gapped and change at 3000 miles along with your oil.
A few sites to check out for ya:http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=288
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us30428.htm
http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...degapping.html
Happy reading and I hope it helps
Use a plug that opens the flame kernal into the center of the combustion chamber , away from the intake. The in coming A/F mixture will cool the electrodes , could cause fouling.
The plug should be as open as possible ( wider gap or smaller electrodes , both happen with Iridium plugs ) or you could open it up by using a side gapped plug ( requires a little modding to the plugs )
you can also use just plain old copper ( stock plugs for 1st gen) , keep them clean and gapped and change at 3000 miles along with your oil.
A few sites to check out for ya:http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=288
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us30428.htm
http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...degapping.html
Happy reading and I hope it helps
Get some Iridium BKR5EIX-11 plugs (gapped bigger already) and mark the gap side of the plug with a marker on the top edge of the hex socket metal part of the plug. Apply some anti-seize to the threads and screw each one into a plug hole until one lines up with the mark pointing towards the exhaust side of the head. Proceed to the next plug hole with the remaining 3 plugs until you get the best alignment of the plugs in each hole. For the ones that need to be adjusted you add some thin copper or aluminum washers until they line up towards the rear of the engine. Sometimes you can swap the plugs around and get them pretty close without spacers being added.
The results of indexing is subtle but it will idle smoother and fire more evenly under cold temperatures and heavy loads like when lugging up a hill at all RPMS. I first did it to my 78 BMW R100S motorcycle and it will idle at 500 rpm and fire perfectly one cylinder at a time. When I did my 06xB the most obvious improvement was pulling up hills at 30mph in 5th nice and smooth.
The results of indexing is subtle but it will idle smoother and fire more evenly under cold temperatures and heavy loads like when lugging up a hill at all RPMS. I first did it to my 78 BMW R100S motorcycle and it will idle at 500 rpm and fire perfectly one cylinder at a time. When I did my 06xB the most obvious improvement was pulling up hills at 30mph in 5th nice and smooth.
Then if your looking to go that route here is a suggestion for ya.
Use a plug that opens the flame kernal into the center of the combustion chamber , away from the intake. The in coming A/F mixture will cool the electrodes , could cause fouling.
The plug should be as open as possible ( wider gap or smaller electrodes , both happen with Iridium plugs ) or you could open it up by using a side gapped plug ( requires a little modding to the plugs )
you can also use just plain old copper ( stock plugs for 1st gen) , keep them clean and gapped and change at 3000 miles along with your oil.
A few sites to check out for ya:http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=288
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us30428.htm
http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...degapping.html
Happy reading and I hope it helps
Use a plug that opens the flame kernal into the center of the combustion chamber , away from the intake. The in coming A/F mixture will cool the electrodes , could cause fouling.
The plug should be as open as possible ( wider gap or smaller electrodes , both happen with Iridium plugs ) or you could open it up by using a side gapped plug ( requires a little modding to the plugs )
you can also use just plain old copper ( stock plugs for 1st gen) , keep them clean and gapped and change at 3000 miles along with your oil.
A few sites to check out for ya:http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=288
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us30428.htm
http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...degapping.html
Happy reading and I hope it helps
Get some Iridium BKR5EIX-11 plugs (gapped bigger already) and mark the gap side of the plug with a marker on the top edge of the hex socket metal part of the plug. Apply some anti-seize to the threads and screw each one into a plug hole until one lines up with the mark pointing towards the exhaust side of the head. Proceed to the next plug hole with the remaining 3 plugs until you get the best alignment of the plugs in each hole. For the ones that need to be adjusted you add some thin copper or aluminum washers until they line up towards the rear of the engine. Sometimes you can swap the plugs around and get them pretty close without spacers being added.
The results of indexing is subtle but it will idle smoother and fire more evenly under cold temperatures and heavy loads like when lugging up a hill at all RPMS. I first did it to my 78 BMW R100S motorcycle and it will idle at 500 rpm and fire perfectly one cylinder at a time. When I did my 06xB the most obvious improvement was pulling up hills at 30mph in 5th nice and smooth.
The results of indexing is subtle but it will idle smoother and fire more evenly under cold temperatures and heavy loads like when lugging up a hill at all RPMS. I first did it to my 78 BMW R100S motorcycle and it will idle at 500 rpm and fire perfectly one cylinder at a time. When I did my 06xB the most obvious improvement was pulling up hills at 30mph in 5th nice and smooth.
As far as indexing, since the plug is dead center between the two exhaust valves. Should I just point it between them and have the intakes to the back? That is what is perplexing me I know you are supposed to have it slightly angled to the exhaust side but I don't see that possible with the head we have.
The ideas are to keep the intake charge from cooling the center electrode unevenly by having the outer electrode towards the intake valve and pointing the gap towards the exhaust valve(s) makes the spark spread towards the hotter area of the cylinder head making it easier to start the fuel burning when the plug fires. In my BMW I aimed the gap towards the intake valve instead of the exhaust since I didn't want it burning faster (regular gas in a 12 to 1 compression engine) and since the fuel concentration near the intake is higher I figured that it would be better to ignite that first. Different schools of thought but in the case of the xB the timing is so far advanced it would probably be best to spark towards the exhaust since the temperature is warmer will help the fuel burn faster and ignite more completely in the cooler spots in the rest of the chamber.
It is good to hear that an Auto has some kick to it because I have heard that some were not that responsive and my manual is a little too responsive at times like the wheels tend to break free in first if I loose even a little traction from wet roads or turn a little and hit the gas too much.
It is good to hear that an Auto has some kick to it because I have heard that some were not that responsive and my manual is a little too responsive at times like the wheels tend to break free in first if I loose even a little traction from wet roads or turn a little and hit the gas too much.
Last edited by Jan06xB; Dec 16, 2009 at 08:11 PM.
The ideas are to keep the intake charge from cooling the center electrode unevenly by having the outer electrode towards the intake valve and pointing the gap towards the exhaust valve(s) makes the spark spread towards the hotter area of the cylinder head making it easier to start the fuel burning when the plug fires. In my BMW I aimed the gap towards the intake valve instead of the exhaust since I didn't want it burning faster (regular gas in a 12 to 1 compression engine) and since the fuel concentration near the intake is higher I figured that it would be better to ignite that first. Different schools of thought but in the case of the xB the timing is so far advanced it would probably be best to spark towards the exhaust since the temperature is warmer will help the fuel burn faster and ignite more completely in the cooler spots in the rest of the chamber.
It is good to hear that an Auto has some kick to it because I have heard that some were not that responsive and my manual is a little too responsive at times like the wheels tend to break free in first if I loose even a little traction from wet roads or turn a little and hit the gas too much.
It is good to hear that an Auto has some kick to it because I have heard that some were not that responsive and my manual is a little too responsive at times like the wheels tend to break free in first if I loose even a little traction from wet roads or turn a little and hit the gas too much.
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