lifetime oil filter
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From: Forest Park
Originally Posted by Scorpius01
There was no jab. It just seems that you don't really know alot about this product other than it is cleanable/reuseable. There are elements for an oil filter in a street driven car that are not found on this really expensive race filter.
A race engine is typically torn down after every race, it makes no sense to use a street filter, the cost would be really high. A race motor demands higher oil flow characteristics, the tradeoff is diminshed filtering.
What does an toyota,fram, purolator, etc.... contain that this TOGA does not? An anti drainback valve which prevents oil from leaving the filter when the motor is turned off, which in the case of the 1nz-fe does not really mean a whole lot. A bypass valve, this will bypass the filter so you still get oil flow in case the filter element gets clogged. That is an important feature for a street driven car to prevent costly engine damage, that really has no purpose on a race motor.
The filtering element is stainless steel vs a street filter which are variations of paper. regular oil filters are Designed for filtration over flow, but they still must meet manufacture flow requirements. All the toga is, is essentailly an oil strainer.
So how does dirt enter the oil? Comubustion chamber blowby, even the best sealing rings are going to let this through. Dirt from the intake tract, this is why throttle bodies get dirty. Engine wear, normal or accelerated. oil varnishing.
Bottom line, with the toga you get an oil strainer that flows and is cleanable, but comes at the expense of filtration, and a bypass valve. and 90.00 for a filter is really expensive.
A race engine is typically torn down after every race, it makes no sense to use a street filter, the cost would be really high. A race motor demands higher oil flow characteristics, the tradeoff is diminshed filtering.
What does an toyota,fram, purolator, etc.... contain that this TOGA does not? An anti drainback valve which prevents oil from leaving the filter when the motor is turned off, which in the case of the 1nz-fe does not really mean a whole lot. A bypass valve, this will bypass the filter so you still get oil flow in case the filter element gets clogged. That is an important feature for a street driven car to prevent costly engine damage, that really has no purpose on a race motor.
The filtering element is stainless steel vs a street filter which are variations of paper. regular oil filters are Designed for filtration over flow, but they still must meet manufacture flow requirements. All the toga is, is essentailly an oil strainer.
So how does dirt enter the oil? Comubustion chamber blowby, even the best sealing rings are going to let this through. Dirt from the intake tract, this is why throttle bodies get dirty. Engine wear, normal or accelerated. oil varnishing.
Bottom line, with the toga you get an oil strainer that flows and is cleanable, but comes at the expense of filtration, and a bypass valve. and 90.00 for a filter is really expensive.
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Originally Posted by itsme
Originally Posted by Scorpius01
There was no jab. It just seems that you don't really know alot about this product other than it is cleanable/reuseable. There are elements for an oil filter in a street driven car that are not found on this really expensive race filter.
A race engine is typically torn down after every race, it makes no sense to use a street filter, the cost would be really high. A race motor demands higher oil flow characteristics, the tradeoff is diminshed filtering.
What does an toyota,fram, purolator, etc.... contain that this TOGA does not? An anti drainback valve which prevents oil from leaving the filter when the motor is turned off, which in the case of the 1nz-fe does not really mean a whole lot. A bypass valve, this will bypass the filter so you still get oil flow in case the filter element gets clogged. That is an important feature for a street driven car to prevent costly engine damage, that really has no purpose on a race motor.
The filtering element is stainless steel vs a street filter which are variations of paper. regular oil filters are Designed for filtration over flow, but they still must meet manufacture flow requirements. All the toga is, is essentailly an oil strainer.
So how does dirt enter the oil? Comubustion chamber blowby, even the best sealing rings are going to let this through. Dirt from the intake tract, this is why throttle bodies get dirty. Engine wear, normal or accelerated. oil varnishing.
Bottom line, with the toga you get an oil strainer that flows and is cleanable, but comes at the expense of filtration, and a bypass valve. and 90.00 for a filter is really expensive.
A race engine is typically torn down after every race, it makes no sense to use a street filter, the cost would be really high. A race motor demands higher oil flow characteristics, the tradeoff is diminshed filtering.
What does an toyota,fram, purolator, etc.... contain that this TOGA does not? An anti drainback valve which prevents oil from leaving the filter when the motor is turned off, which in the case of the 1nz-fe does not really mean a whole lot. A bypass valve, this will bypass the filter so you still get oil flow in case the filter element gets clogged. That is an important feature for a street driven car to prevent costly engine damage, that really has no purpose on a race motor.
The filtering element is stainless steel vs a street filter which are variations of paper. regular oil filters are Designed for filtration over flow, but they still must meet manufacture flow requirements. All the toga is, is essentailly an oil strainer.
So how does dirt enter the oil? Comubustion chamber blowby, even the best sealing rings are going to let this through. Dirt from the intake tract, this is why throttle bodies get dirty. Engine wear, normal or accelerated. oil varnishing.
Bottom line, with the toga you get an oil strainer that flows and is cleanable, but comes at the expense of filtration, and a bypass valve. and 90.00 for a filter is really expensive.
i however did know this information before the purchase. i am not a noob when it comes to filtration, part of my college degree focused on filtration. you state that the filter is only good to 40 microns. however i don't believe you understand the difference between absolute and nominal particle size. the beta ratio of the oil filter is given (50% at 10microns, 70% at 20 microns, 97% at 30microns and 99% at 40). there is NO PAPER FILTER THAT WILL CATCH 100% of all particles sized (nominally) 10 microns. you must use a combination of fibers and the thickness of this media determines the level of ABSOLUTE filtration.
since this filter catches 50% of 10micron particles (nominal only) how is it that it's inferior to a paper filter? find me a spec on a toyota or fram paper filter that is as honest as Toga has been. you cannot find it. there is no industry standard set in place for filtration of automotive oil. yes, everyone offers something to catch dirt, but most filters are so tiny that in a lot of dirty environments, you've hit the bypass valve only a couple thousand miles into the oil cycle. THIS MEANS WHAT? that now you have NO filtration.
the mere fact that the Toga filter has over double the filtration surface of the stock YZZA2 filter for the 1nz tells you something.... you don't need a bypass because you won't clog it during a normal oil cycle.
to be honest, i'd love nothing more than to get a Vickers 3micron absolute filter for my car. i am a very strong believer in proper filtration. but it would be impractical and the filter would not withstand the high heat of regular engine oil (compared to hydraulic fluid)
want me to rant more? ;)
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When I first saw this thread the first thing that popped into my head was the oil filter JC Whitney used to sell that used a roll of Toilet Tissue for filter media, you just changed it out. I tried to find a picture of it but couldn't find one, I remember them selling these 30 years ago.
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From: Davie, FL
you remember mag's from when you were 14? wow!
OEM filter kicks the other's asses. don't buy anything but toyota filters if you're gonna go the OE size route. if you HAVE to buy a fram buy the PH4386 not the PH4967. they're the same filter but the 4386 is about half an inch longer. more filtration for the same price. (and recommended for the supercharged 4AGZE
OEM filter kicks the other's asses. don't buy anything but toyota filters if you're gonna go the OE size route. if you HAVE to buy a fram buy the PH4386 not the PH4967. they're the same filter but the 4386 is about half an inch longer. more filtration for the same price. (and recommended for the supercharged 4AGZE
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honestly i would imagine the TRD filter is similar (filtration-wise) to my Toga filter. it's the same size as stock, so it's definitely not a BETTER filter (dirt catching-wise) or it would clog much sooner than stock. it probably just allows for higher oil flow. oh and it's expensive as hell lol
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did my first oilchange.. 2956.4 miles.
filter installed.
check out the crud in the bottom of the can.. it was metallic.. rinsed it off with some carb cleaner and wiped it down inside before re-installing..
here's the element before cleaning. minor particles were found in the element, most too small to see, all too small to photograph. i rinsed the filter into a stainless bowl with carb cleaner then laid a paper towel on the bottom to catch any particles that had come out. surprising how much aluminum was there
my engine is eating itself... then again, racing almost every weekend, constantly at redline.. it's to be expected.. it's just nice to know WHAT the engine is doing now.
filter installed.
check out the crud in the bottom of the can.. it was metallic.. rinsed it off with some carb cleaner and wiped it down inside before re-installing..
here's the element before cleaning. minor particles were found in the element, most too small to see, all too small to photograph. i rinsed the filter into a stainless bowl with carb cleaner then laid a paper towel on the bottom to catch any particles that had come out. surprising how much aluminum was there
my engine is eating itself... then again, racing almost every weekend, constantly at redline.. it's to be expected.. it's just nice to know WHAT the engine is doing now.
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100% custom. i'll most likely be modifying a B16 manifold, or just building my own. the rest is up to god.. haha no, but this is not going to be a half assed project. a block will be built outside the car so i can run more than ____water 6psi
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From: Hellam, PA