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Hey folks,
I'm pretty decent with a wrench when it comes to old-school hot rods, but not so much apparently with these FWD little compact cars.
My wife has an '06 xB that needs a new clutch. After searching online for a while I came up with three decent (I thought) sources:
The problem is there is contradictory information and the video seems to leave out a few steps based on what I can tell.
I've got the car "almost" ready to yank the tranny, but here are my burning questions holding me back:
1) What *needs* to be removed at the hub to be able to pull out the axle shafts? Currently I have pulled the 2 main bolts so assembly will drop from the strut, (cuz it doesn't appear the guy in the video does anything else??),
but it doesn't seem like that gives enough room to get the axle free. Some other sources say ball joint, some sources say tie-rod, some sources say sway bar, some say all of the above.
1a) Spindle nut has been removed, but I cannot get the axle to even budge back toward the engine to free from the hub in order to pull free from under the car -- I threaded the old nut back on just a few turns
and then beat hardily with sledge hammer after soaking the backside with PB Blaster and it ain't moving. Doesn't seem to be quite enough room to manipulate and free the shaft unless the hub side is clear.
2) Rear engine (tranny) mount… again, I'm seeing different instructions. I went ahead and paid for AllDataDIY online manual and it says to remove the 3 bolts under the x-member and then one additional on on the (in)side of the mount.
Most other sources don't say anything about those 3 bolts thru the x-member, but say you have to instead get to those nearly impossible 14mm bolts with an open end wrench wedged between the x-member and the tranny and then one from the top.
Again other sources say all of 'em have to come out. Totally different info. Some say heat shield has to come out first, too. One guy made it sound like he just pulled the single bolt that goes through the rear mount and then slid engine forward on a floor jack.
Anyway, I NEED HELP PLEASE. Need to get this done by Monday for my wife & kids, and I'm two days in (Friday night and most of today) and I don't even have the transaxle out of the car yet!!! I sure hope re-installation is a heckuva lot easier or I'm screwed.
1) I took out the two 19mm bolts that connect the strut to the hub. I don't remember messing with the tie-rods as this would require getting a new alignment.
I disconnected a crown nut somewhere maybe it was the ball joint. Getting the axle's out was pretty hard but with the right lever tool is probably easier than the crowbar I had.
2) Rear mount is a pain; There is also a housing bolt in the back that is near impossible to see from above; and I think unreachable from below.
Back to the transmission mount; I did not touch the three on the X-member, I went for the difficult to see ones. Maybe it's a better idea the other way not sure.
You will have to work all day Sunday to even have a chance. It took me 3 days but never did a clutch previously.
To make enough room for the transmission to separate you may have to loosen the subframe; I did and it was still tight. If possible don't leave the subframe disconnected long; it will want to pull the steering connection off and that is troublesome to re-connect.
If you haven't got a transmission jack you will very likely need one to put it back in. I had two big guys lifting while I tried to guide it on. NO DICE plus it was probably very dangerous. With a transmission jack from Harbor Freight I got it back on in 20, 30 mins by myself.
Putting everything back together; maybe 2 hours, feels faster.
What I did on mine is completely removed the steering knuckles. I undid the tie rod from the spindle but I didn't loosen the tie rod itself. The alignment will stay the same as long as you correctly align the steering column shaft and steering rack shaft when you put it back together
I've never had too much trouble bashing the CV axles inwards. but they don't move a whole lot. If you take out the whole spindle you get a lot of room.
My CV axles were VERY stuck when I was trying to pull them out of the transmission. what I did and worked in like 2 seconds was wrapping a chain around the input... right where they go into the trans and then on the other end I wrapped around a brake rotor. I used the rotors weight to pop them out like a slide hammer ya know
On the rear mount there are 2 studs and one bolt that all accessible from the bottom. you can undo those 3 and then drop the subframe. getting the subframe jacked back up and getting everything to line up is pretty fiddly but doable by yourself if you have some jacks and aren't a stringbean haha
Also you don't need to take the clutch line off the slave cylinder. There section of hose where you can bend it out of the way so you dont need to bleed it.
Thanks. So I guess there are clearly multiple ways to skin this cat, as evidenced from your two replies: one of you focused on the bolts in the subframe, the other the bolts along the side. Based on my earlier research I was hoping to not have to loosen or remove the subframe member itself.
I already have the driver side axle shaft "out" of the transaxle, but I can't maneuver it out from under since the other end is still stuck in the knuckle/hub assembly. Sounds like it is easier to deal with the tranny if I can get the axle all the way out. I assume the other side just needs to be popped free but can remain.
Sounds like a transmission jack is probably on my list now, as I'm working solo and would rather be safe than sorry.
Guess I'll go back out and try the fasteners on the front side of the X-member first. I suppose I could briefly apply some heat to the hub where the axle seems to be stuck (not the greatest idea, but so far it ain't budging).
Any other insight would be appreciated. Looks like I"ll be borrowing a car for my wife to use tomorrow.
Thanks. So I guess there are clearly multiple ways to skin this cat, as evidenced from your two replies: one of you focused on the bolts in the subframe, the other the bolts along the side. Based on my earlier research I was hoping to not have to loosen or remove the subframe member itself.
I already have the driver side axle shaft "out" of the transaxle, but I can't maneuver it out from under since the other end is still stuck in the knuckle/hub assembly. Sounds like it is easier to deal with the tranny if I can get the axle all the way out. I assume the other side just needs to be popped free but can remain.
Sounds like a transmission jack is probably on my list now, as I'm working solo and would rather be safe than sorry.
Guess I'll go back out and try the fasteners on the front side of the x-member first. I suppose I could briefly apply some heat to the hub where the axle seems to be stuck (not the greatest idea, but so far it ain't budging).
Any other insight would be appreciated. Looks like I"ll be borrowing a car for my wife to use tomorrow.
I think the only surface that the axle touches is the bearing in the spindle. I think maybe you just haven't hit it hard enough haha. get some wood in-between your mallet and the axle and beat it out. When I changed my clutch I was already swapping the engine so I only really know how to take it fully apart I guess.
I'm in the fully remove subframe camp unfortunately. Have you looked at removing the steering rack to get at the rear mount? or maybe you could get at it from the top if you removed the exhaust manifold?
Another question: how does that O2 sensor connector come apart? I hate these things, some squeeze, some pull, some push, etc. I broke a wire going into it trying to free the harness from the stupid push mount on the engine side. GRRR.
On the positive side, took a break for a while to clear my head, came back and was able to get to some of these bolts at least, so some progress is being made. Clearly not finishing today so maybe that took some of the pressure off.
Another question: how does that O2 sensor connector come apart? I hate these things, some squeeze, some pull, some push, etc. I broke a wire going into it trying to free the harness from the stupid push mount on the engine side. GRRR.
On the positive side, took a break for a while to clear my head, came back and was able to get to some of these bolts at least, so some progress is being made. Clearly not finishing today so maybe that took some of the pressure off.
Are you in a rusty area? I broke 2 of the main subframe bolts and had to replace them. it sucked. And the O2 just has a tab you press in and then pull apart but I think i may had had to use a screw driver to push the tab thing in.
I think the only surface that the axle touches is the bearing in the spindle. I think maybe you just haven't hit it hard enough haha. get some wood in-between your mallet and the axle and beat it out.
Man, I don't know... I've tried multiple PB Blaster soaks, even tried some heat today from a MAP torch (to the outside only). I've just about splintered these 2x4s, and also used the old spindle nuts threaded about 3/4 -- mushroomed those suckers something fierce. I don't know how much harder I could be whacking these stupid things.
Originally Posted by mrrcom
I'm in the fully remove subframe camp unfortunately. Have you looked at removing the steering rack to get at the rear mount? or maybe you could get at it from the top if you removed the exhaust manifold?
I wanted to avoid the subframe (based simply on the stuff I read early on), partially since it seemed more work. Clearly, that is not the case. Can't believe how frustrating this has become. No wonder the transmission shop wanted so much $$$ to do the job.
I wanted to avoid touching the subframe but from my DIY experience it was not possible without turning the entire engine to get clearance;
then I would have a dangling engine to deal with because you'd have to take off the only remaining mount.
The O2 sensor clip is kinda annoying, I think you have to come in with a screwdriver from behind (if looking from front of car)
I heard you can't solder the steel wire O2 sensors use but not an expert. Sorry it broke.
UPDATE:
2 1/2 days later, and transaxle still in the vehicle (). I made some progress today though in that I at least finally got the 4 bolts to the trans mount bracket broken loose through various contortions, BFH, and a piece of old pipe. The bad news, it seems as though that stupid bolt that fastens the heat shield to said tranny mount is rounded (clearly someone's been here before). As you likely know, there's only one way a wrench is gonna fit on there in that position, and no way this one is gonna turn. So the plan is to pull out the trusty sawzall and just hack off that corner of the heat shield. Why Toyota fastened one corner of it to the mount and not just all to the transaxle makes zero sense to me. Speaking of "what were they thinking", I noted too that the single bolt going through the rear mount and the bracket was put in from the driver side, such that it cannot physically be removed because the hard lines for the steering are a mere inch or two away in direct line with its would-be path out. Had it been inserted from the passenger side, I think you could pull it.
Back at it tomorrow after work. Going to pick up a transmission jack from Harbor Freight on the way home. With any luck, I'll at least have the transaxle out sometime this week, once I can figure out why the axle shafts aren't separating from the hub assembly. Worse case scenario: I'll separate the entire knuckle I guess and disconnect the tie-rods, ball joints, and brake calipers.
Who knew this was gonna take a week to change a clutch? I have to even think about putting this all back together and somehow tightening all of these bolts back to spec.
Sympathy.
I was just trying to replace the rear mount - thought it would be easy, but gave up and got the Toyota Tech to do it.
They had to drop the cross member a few inches to get it out - which I figured was safe on a hoist, but not on ramps.
They have alignment holes next to the big lower bolts and those bolts can rust in place.
SUCCESS! (Well, at least the transaxle is out now anyway… on the fourth "day"):
BOOYAH!
Now I can finally get around to changing the clutch!
I don't even want to think about re-installing all of this. So many blind holes with nearly no access. I'm not gonna think about it at least for today (but would appreciate any tips/insight into the putting-it-all-back-together phase).
Oh, and even with a hub puller those axle shafts never came free -- I'm gonna have to run a CARFAX to see if this spent time in Florida or somewhere, as I can only imagine those splines must be rusted to the point of fusing!
So off came the calipers, ball joints and tie-rods and shafts came out with knuckles attached.
Sadly the forecast calls for snow and freezing temperatures the next several days.
Wow, you got it out without taking the bumper cover off and did you not drop the subframe either?
No, did not touch the subframe. Left the rear mount in place and disconnected bracket from drivetrain. I may swap that thru-bolt in the mount itself now that I can get to it so that it can be removed from the passenger side, "just in case".
Originally Posted by mrrcom
So what's going in? A solid clutch plate and a Stage 3 or 4 pressure plate? LOL
Ha! This is my wife's car. Got the store-brand replacement from AutoZone.
HOWEVER, I have thought seriously about converting this to electric with a Hyper9 unit -- but I'm not there just yet; that is why I was putting off doing this job for so long… was hoping to not have to do it until the motor got yanked. We'll see. Wish batteries were cheaper.
So, since I am trying to do this "on the cheap"… I know it would be recommended to replace or at least machine the flywheel, but I've also read on the interwebz about folks just taking a sanding disc on a die grinder and cleaning these up. Here's mine:
Thoughts?
In light of the nasty weather on the way (and how long it took me to get this far) I'd love to be able to get this back together ASAP and not have to wait on a machine shop or shipping…
Some pretty decent scoring and heat checking on that bad boy. I'd recommend a Blanchard surface grind or a new aftermarket flywheel. I would not recommend doing nothing.
If I could go back I wish I had just taken an extra day to take it off and have a machine shop resurface. Since you have less time constraints now; that's what I would do.
Some pretty decent scoring and heat checking on that bad boy. I'd recommend a Blanchard surface grind or a new aftermarket flywheel. I would not recommend doing nothing.
Ended up picking up a new flywheel tonight from Advance Auto; not too horrible with a 25% coupon. The only problem is that apparently nobody has the flywheel bolts (called three different brands)… guess I'll be making a visit to a Toyota dealer tomorrow.
Also see that this new one doesn't come with the dowels/pins -- tips for yanking the old ones to transfer over?
01-31-2021, 03:22 AM
Newbie ** Please Help ** Clutch Install..
Some say heat shield has to come out first, too. One guy made it sound like he just pulled the single bolt that goes through the rear mount and then slid engine forward on a floor jack.
). I made some progress today though in that I at least finally got the 4 bolts to the trans mount bracket broken loose through various contortions, BFH, and a piece of old pipe. The bad news, it seems as though that stupid bolt that fastens the heat shield to said tranny mount is rounded (clearly someone's been here before). As you likely know, there's only one way a wrench is gonna fit on there in that position, and no way this one is gonna turn. So the plan is to pull out the trusty sawzall and just hack off that corner of the heat shield. Why Toyota fastened one corner of it to the mount and not just all to the transaxle makes zero sense to me. Speaking of "what were they thinking", I noted too that the single bolt going through the rear mount and the bracket was put in from the driver side, such that it cannot physically be removed because the hard lines for the steering are a mere inch or two away in direct line with its would-be path out. Had it been inserted from the passenger side, I think you could pull it.
