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So I've got the right angle O2 adapter but I'm thinking about making something so I can select the voltage I want the ECU to see. I need to find out how to make that but right now I'm kind of wondering if the "effects" of the front and rear sensors are separate.
Like can the front sensor V be more than .55 and the rear V be lower than .4? Would that cancel them out? What is the front is >.55 and so is the back. Would that be +50% more fuel? Maybe the manual already answered this and I didn't see it LOL
The forward O2 sensor (B1S1) is important to actual fuel injection; modern three-way catalytic converters need the Air-to-Fuel ratio to be constantly driven rich/lean in order to work at maximum efficiency.
For this reason, the computer oscillates between slightly rich and slightly lean and what B1S1 detects has some input on this. Your scan tool will probably show it shifting constantly.
So I thought I had just closed out of the tab and didn't post originally. I had forgotten that I had got some data from the OBD2 port. Anyways the log viewer you can get for Torque is pretty bad. I think instead of having it see a set voltage I'd like it to just be limited to its .4 to .55 range. Much like I was able to do with the piggyback.
Oh and this car is so fast I ONLY drive it on the race track ;) so its cool.
I don't know anything about racing tuning. But I'll offer an answer. I think the best way to accomplish the goal would be for a professional tuner to alter the fuel map but I don't know how or if that is possible on this ECU.
0.1 - 0.4Volts would tell the ECU the exhaust is lean; the expected response (remember the ECU is a bit of a black box; we don't know exactly what the calculation is) would be to add more fuel. But gasoline will always burn best when combined with 14.7 parts air so I don't know if manually tricking the computer to always run more rich is good or not.
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My understanding of Wide Open Throttle (probably a common occurrence in racing); is that fuel will be added in large amounts regardless of what is happening in the exhaust. My scanner usually displays this as a Short Term Fuel Trim of +99% when the throttle is pressed hard.
I don't know anything about racing tuning. But I'll offer an answer. I think the best way to accomplish the goal would be for a professional tuner to alter the fuel map but I don't know how or if that is possible on this ECU.
0.1 - 0.4Volts would tell the ECU the exhaust is lean; the expected response (remember the ECU is a bit of a black box; we don't know exactly what the calculation is) would be to add more fuel. But gasoline will always burn best when combined with 14.7 parts air so I don't know if manually tricking the computer to always run more rich is good or not.
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My understanding of Wide Open Throttle (probably a common occurrence in racing); is that fuel will be added in large amounts regardless of what is happening in the exhaust. My scanner usually displays this as a Short Term Fuel Trim of +99% when the throttle is pressed hard.
Yup. You're right on all this stuff I think. What I'm thinking now I want to control the voltage when its idling. When I watch my wideband gauge it hunts for the right amount of AFR.
Maybe putting in that O2 elbow will calm the it down some but maybe having it only see the sweet zone at idle and then pass through when a transducer sees positive intake pressure would work?
Its too cold to goof with the O2 elbow, I need to day dream about this some more LOL
Seems to me like you're making this way more complicated than it has to be...any number of folks have gone turbo and not had to 'spoof' a voltage from the O2 sensor or use transducers for anything. A proper tune would eliminate the need for all of this unless there is something fundamentally wrong with the design of the turbo system.
Seems to me like you're making this way more complicated than it has to be...any number of folks have gone turbo and not had to 'spoof' a voltage from the O2 sensor or use transducers for anything. A proper tune would eliminate the need for all of this unless there is something fundamentally wrong with the design of the turbo system.
LOL I guess cause their piggyback or standalones are doing it for them. Clamping the signal in the FIC worked great and I'd to replicate that.
Update. I was thinking about this more and you know you're right and I need to basically accept it now before I waste time or money. I need to just save up for the mega squirt and do everything right. Its just that the idle isnt super smooth and I guess I would like to try and fix that but I dunno
Update 2. I installed the O2 defouler and it helped a whole lot! Its almost like stock now
Thanks dude
11-30-2020, 07:41 PM
O2 voltage spoofer
