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OBD-II Error Code help

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Old 02-11-2008, 10:25 PM
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Default OBD-II Error Code help

so about a week ago I my check engine like vsc and trac off lights came on, so I pulled out my code reader and this is what I get:

P0441-Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0442-Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
P0446-Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction

I have the megan racing headers, trd exhaust and the fujita short ram, I was thinking I might need to just clean the MAF sensor but I figured I would check and see if anyone else had gotten the codes, and any fixes they had for it.

thanks
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Old 02-11-2008, 10:34 PM
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those codes probably mean your gas cap is loose.

tighten it, disconnect and reconnect your battary, and see if it comes back on.
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Old 02-11-2008, 10:48 PM
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I thought that might be it too so I tried it and then cleared the code with my code scanner but I'm not sure it that was it since its done it before when I have half a tank and haven't messed with the gas cap at in awhile.
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Old 02-12-2008, 03:55 AM
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Hmmm....sounds to me like your due for the EVAP "recall"..... I wouldn't have cleared the codes, but if they come back take it into ur dealer and have them performe the EVAP tsb on ur car, all covered under warranty. There's a problem with the stock EVAP system and they basically need to replace the entire system and the entire fuel filler neck.
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Old 02-12-2008, 02:12 PM
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Usually the code for a loose gas cap is P0440. Those other 3 codes usually appear when there is a malfunctioning EVAP VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve) or a disconnected hose, most commonly near the air filter box.
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Old 02-13-2008, 05:33 AM
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i just got these codes about a month ago. dealer replaced everything under warranty. water in the evap system. nothing to do with your headers or exhaust upgrades.
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Old 02-13-2008, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by xa007xa
i just got these codes about a month ago. dealer replaced everything under warranty. water in the evap system. nothing to do with your headers or exhaust upgrades.
do you have any mods, and if so did they give you any crap about it when you took it to get it fixed.
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Old 02-13-2008, 01:45 PM
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yes. cai, headers, and exhaust amongst other things. no hell. all that stuff has nothing to do with evap. took about two weeks for them to get the parts in though.
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Old 02-13-2008, 03:58 PM
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okay thanks everybody.
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Old 02-15-2008, 01:32 PM
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so I called the dealer this morning and they said if its a vsv problem that its only covered for 3 yrs 36000. I've got about 49000 on mine so I might have to pay it out of pocket, but I was wondering if I read correctly that "driverXa" referred to the problem as the "evap recall" so does that mean its something that would be covered outside of the normal warranty.
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Old 02-15-2008, 05:17 PM
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Its a TSB on the EVAP system. The EVAP is an emissions related issue, and I know the warranty on the emissions system is much greater than on the powertrain.... So technically you should be covered. I believe its 3years/50,000 miles on the whole system and 7years/70,000miles on specific emmissions devices... That 3year/36,000mile warranty is bumper to bumper, you should still have the 5year/60,000mile powertrain warranty intact...and the EVAP system is part of your powertrain.

My best bet is to get it to the dealer ASAP and at least have them document ur car, and if they're going to give you a hard time about it call Corporate and have them get on ur dealer's case.
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Old 02-15-2008, 10:44 PM
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so upon closer inspection one of the wires on the vsv near the air intake had been nicked, probably when I installed my short ram, so I am gonna patch it reset the code and cross my fingers and if it comes back again I will definitely have to just hand it over to the dealership.
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Old 07-08-2008, 01:01 PM
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I have these same error codes.

I bought a new (aftermarket) gas cap to see if my original gas cap was the problem. I cleared the codes, and they came back about a day later. During this time my rpms were also dropping at idle. I took my car to the dealership, they cleaned out the throttle body to fix the low rpms, and ran a smoke test to find the leak. They told me I needed a toyota gas cap to run the test, so I bought one from them for $20. They ran the smoke test and said that no leaks were found. Oh, and the dealership told me that the EVAP system is covered in the 3yr/36,000 mile warranty, not the powertrain.

Two days after the test, the codes came back. What else could be wrong if there are no leaks? Did they just not find it? Am I most likely gonna need to buy a new evap system out of my pocket?
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Old 07-08-2008, 02:59 PM
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I think there's a little too much system think going on here. Now this may be worth the paper its written on, but my wife had the same codes on her Camry the other year. Dealer talked something like $800 to fix it -- replace the charcoal cannister, etc. I got under the car and pulled the VSVs that would pull (two of em, one on the intake manifold and one on the charcoal cannister). The cannister VSV was bad. It cost $57. The xB system has two VSVs one on the intake and one on the cannister. I'd suggest checking them. The specs are at 12-8 in the shop manual under Emission Control, Inspection.
Good luck!
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Old 07-09-2008, 01:02 PM
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Thanks for the info. Where might I find a shop manual?
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Old 07-09-2008, 01:52 PM
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EVAP problems are a beech to find..

to the guy that they couldnt find the leak, but still got the code..
I have had to test and retest cars for EVAP leaks before it showed itself, also an internal valve in the system may be
malfunctioning, and not closing all the way, so it is actually leaking within the system, when portions of the system are
supposed to be shut, the system monitors the EVAP emissions gas pressure in that area, if the pressure drops it
sets a code for a leak.. though the leak may just be running right into your intake, it would never be found by the smoker. Thats why they should first smoke.. then step two is dividing
the system into sections and testing for internal leaks or non functioning valves.. this can take a whole day or two.. then the repair itself only pays the tech like 1 hour.. so you are left with techs just "not finding the leak" if it doesnt
appear fast enough..

to the original poster.. (TSE!!)
the codes you have listed show common signs of a bad vent shut valve on the canister.. it is not closing all the way and
forming a small leak.. when the system commands the purge, only a portion is making it to the intake, the rest is
leaking out of the valve. The PCM knows what the flow should be, and it monitors O2 sensors and such to verify it
is there (the extra fuel vapor) when it is not there, you get a purge flow problem code. The canister vent shut valve usually goes bad by fuel contamination ,this can happen by one overfill of the tank, and take months to cause the damage.. odds are it will be a whole canister and valve to fix that problem, because they cannot trully purge the raw fuel
from the canister, and it will just happen again if not replaced..
the other option is.. a more acute problem in the system,
causing these same symptoms.. but it sounds pretty classic of EVAP problems.
Also, it may take forever for the codes to return.. the system has to run a certain cycle to test for problems, and set codes.

Also.. what year is your box? I have a whole EVAP canister with the valves, sitting in my garage off of an 05 (wont fit the
06 I have, so I bought a new one).. PM me!

Shop manuals on eBay are like $10 on disc, you can also get an All Data DIY account, for like $20 for a specific
make/model/year, all data is what all shops use for repair info, it also includes system tests, part numbers, warranty
cost coverage and labor times, all current TSB's, etc.,. and is available now (its an online service). Thats what I use..
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:23 PM
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Thanks for the replies. You guys know a heck of a lot more than the techs I've talked to at the dealership (or maybe they just dont want to tell me this info). I think I'll pickup one of these manuals and try to hunt the leak down on my own. In the meantime, will this leak cause any harm to any other part of my car?
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:40 PM
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Yeah.. I have been a tech at a few dealers.. generally there is only 2 or 3 that know a whole lot

It will hit your mileage some..
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Old 07-10-2008, 12:01 AM
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I think I may have found my problem! The wires connecting to the VSV for EVAP (one by the intake) were very brittle and appeared to be slightly severed. I attempted to remove the connector, and one of the wires broke at the back of the connector. So I am assuming the VSV wasnt receiving power, and therefore stuck.

What should I do to repair the wires? Should I also go ahead and replace the VSV as well?

Also, where can I buy one of these? I cant seem to find the VSV at online parts stores. Is it also called something else?
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Old 07-12-2008, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ksmith173
I think I may have found my problem! The wires connecting to the VSV for EVAP (one by the intake) were very brittle and appeared to be slightly severed. I attempted to remove the connector, and one of the wires broke at the back of the connector. So I am assuming the VSV wasnt receiving power, and therefore stuck.

What should I do to repair the wires? Should I also go ahead and replace the VSV as well?

Also, where can I buy one of these? I cant seem to find the VSV at online parts stores. Is it also called something else?
Your not going to be able to find a repair end for that harness, new. They will only sell you the whole harness, but that connector should be the same on all 1st gens, so a junk yard may be the best bet, for affordability. If you have the resources, they do sell the actual pins that go in the connector, but their are many styles. If you did find the right ones, you could rewire the new pin to the end, and shove it back in the old connector.
If you are talking about the valve that is on your intake, that is the EVAP purge selenoid.. OEM part number 90910-12276 (on the 06, but I believe they are all the same). Its like 30 bucks, and odds are yours is fine.
But definatley repair that harness somehow, I have the tools for removing harness connector pins. This is a must to remove the pins without damaging the connector body. If you could get that pin out, you can perform some minor surgery and open the old pin, remove the broken wire end, and strip the end of the broken wire from the harness and re-install it into the factory pin > into the connector.
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