2tirefire

Trying to find out the best way to replace the Rear Motor Mount. There is not much room back there to access it. Any ideas, suggestions, and tools required would be greatly appreciated.

Background on 05 xB. Motor had low compression on Cyl 1. Measured 20 psi. Check engine light flashing and almost stalling when idling. Did a motor swap,
Car runs excellent with the exception of the motor bout to shake itself to death when letting the clutch out. First tank of fuel I got 27 mpg with bike rack and 2 ladders on top all freeway.

Thanks for your time.

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Elijmdy

i am asking for help with removing the rear motor mount, i removed motor mount and the bracket would not let if come from back of engine, second attempt was taking bracket and mount off and trying to fish out back of engine instead of removing sub frame and if sub frame is removed can rack hang while sub frame is lowered?

RichBinAZ

I am interested in this also as the last time I was under the car, I could see the rear mount was buggered.
Yes - very little info on how to replace it.

The only thing I have found so far was this...
"Remove the 3 nuts on the bottom and the main bolt.
Disconnect the exhaust from the manifold and jack the engine up a bit to gain access to the bolts holding the bracket that themount bolts to.
Once removed, wrestle it out thru the drivers side wheel well, with the drivers side wheel removed
Probably have to use heat or PB blaster on the exhaust bolts"

Not very helpful, but he did say it only takes 1/2 hour
I'm sure that is with all the right tools and plenty of experience
No mention made about lowering the subframe

eatcrispycreme2

Removing the subframe for the motor mount sounds terrible. Either of you accomplish this task yet? Getting ready to do mine.

RichBinAZ

Today, I just received the rear mount and tranny mount from Rock Auto along with an exhaust bolt and seal kit. We may be attempting it this week and we will take video as we go.
The tranny mount is under the battery tray, covered by not only the battery tray but also a sheet metal housing, so we had no idea what condition it was in. While we are mucking about under there, I figured we may as well replace that one too. The passenger side mount looks OK.

It will be an adventure that will take more than 1/2hr I'm sure.

RichBinAZ

OK, so we spent most of the day trying to figure out if we could do the rear mount replacement ourselves, with the equipment we have on hand.
1. I don't see how the rear mount can come out thru the wheel well, that is just fantasy
2. It does look like you need to take the exhaust off to gain access to the mount - there is an exhaust clamp back by the rear right wheel that can come off to save removing the whole system
3. You need more room under the car than simply just front ramps gives you.

I do have a second set of ramps and am figuring out a way to get these under the rear wheels as the car goes up on the front ramps. Then I think it's possible
Would be much easier with either a pit or a car hoist - but who has those!!!

I will try and compile the video later so you can see what we encountered.

RichBinAZ

Today, Dec 16 2019, we tried to get the mount replaced and failed.
Could not get the engine jacked high enough to be able to get the old mount out.
Removing the exhaust helped a lot and also removing the airbox helped a bit, but the flange at the forward side of the mount would not lift past the engine mount brackets and we could not get to the bracket bolts to remove the brackets.

I suspect the only way to do this is by lowering the whole subframe that the steering rack is attached to and that is a lot more than we are equipped to do.

If the mount had used 3 bolts instead of 2 long studs and 1 bolt, then it would have come out easy. But no, we admit defeat.

Scion2006xa

I feel your pain, I also attempted to change out all three motor mounts this past weekend, and ultimately failed.
I was a bit frustrating not having much access to any service manuals. I basically used the Toyota Parts catalogue to get references of parts and what I needed to do to get this job done.

The rear mount bracket was a pain to get out. I too could not get the bracket off. And there is no way to take the bracket bolt off (on passenger side) without raising or lowering the motor. The bolt faces the sub-frame head on and there is about 1.5 to 2 inches of space. I opted to also remove the Passenger side Motor Mount hoping I could lift the motor more, which may have worked, but I found it very unsafe having the Rear and Passenger motor mounts loose. I used a jack and block to jack up the motor, but it kept tilting quite a bit. The only place I could safely jack up the motor was on the block closer to the transmission. But because of that it made the motor tilt more than I was comfortable with (I was doing this alone). It would be best to have an engine hoist to lift from the top. Or have a better/safer way to jack up the motor from the bottom.
To make matters worse, the 3 mount kit I bought off of ebay did not have perfect matching mounts. The passenger side mount was missing the stud. Because of all this I decided to just put everything back together. It was a pain to line the passenger motor mount back up.

The only silver lining here is that I was able to reduce the vibration by disconnecting the DC Sports Air intake mounting spot. It uses the battery tie down to secure itself. Since having that disconnected, the vibration has greatly reduced, making it much more tolerable to drive for the time being.

As for the mounts...I will have to buy OEM mounts and will likely have a shop install them. As much as I hate paying to get my cars worked on, this one is probably worth it.

Good luck to anyone attempting this.

FYI my car is a 2006 xA auto

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SWells679

Re: lowering the subframe - so, I had this thought. The subframe is "only" 4 ea. bolts (19mm). What if, you jack & block the engine as before, but then also jack & block the subframe assy, then remove the 4 ea. bolts? You'd have to "hang" the front wheels by putting jackstands at the jacking points (vice using ramps).
Then you could 1) control the jacking action of the motor in the RAISE direction and 2) control the jacking action of the subframe in the LOWER direction.
Just thinking out loud.
I won't be tackling this job until after the first of the year, so in the meantime, I'm constantly thinking about it. DO-IT-YOURSELF...that's the key for me. Oh, and doing it safely as well.

RichBinAZ

I think the 4 main bolts you mention (+4 bolts on the 2 diagonal braces) are the ones that show up at the bottom of the isometric picture on page EM-70. But I don't know what happens with the steering spline or the power steering pump hoses or something else I haven't thought of?? Like do the drive shafts need to be able to move??
If that does work, then you may just be able to support the subframe on axle stands and jack the car up via the engine.We lifted the car a few inches and the mount only 1 or 1 1/2 inch
With the car on ramps and the weight resting thru the suspension to the wheels, disconnecting the subframe may result in instability of the car body???
Perhaps you can loosen but leave the front 2 subframe bolts in place and let the back of the subframe sag down if that's what it can do
Lot of unknowns, that I'm not equipped to deal with.
So we put it all back together today as he (my son) needs it for running errands etc. It went back together in much less time than it took to figure out how to remove stuff.

RichBinAZ

Here is the video we made during the attempt at replacing the rear mount

RichBinAZ

There may be some life left in this topic.
"The Truth" replied to the video in post #11 with a solution.
He said he had his car up on jack stands and did it without removing the exhaust or airbox (must love pain) You can read the whole reply by going to the youtube page and reading the comments underneath, or here


Same thing but, basically he got to the stage we got to in the video, then while supporting the cross member on 2 jacks (1 more jack under the tranny), he unbolted the sway bar, the 2 diagonal struts
and the cross member and lowered it enough to get the mount out. He said it did not stress the power steering lines or cause anything else to separate, so that could be a workable solution.

I may give it another go soon, the only difference being I want to use longer metric bolts (or stud bar and nuts) put back into the 4 main bolt holes thru the cross member so that I can still use ramps and hopefully not loose too much wheel alignment.

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MileHightC

RichBinAZ,

Hope you keep us posted on how it works out...I'm assuming there has got to be a relatively 'easy' way.

AP

You can replace the rear motor mount without dropping the cross member or sub-frame. I just replaced mine on my 2006 Scion xB and it was a pain to do. I disconnected the bracket that is bolted to the transmission. There are three 14 mm bolts that hold the bracket to the transmission and they are short enough to be remove. There is a 4th bolt, screwed to a heat shield and it is 12 mm. Toyota used thread lock on these bolts so use a good 14 mm wrench like Craftman, Husky or something better. Have both a six point and 12 point box end. Use the six point of the wrench to break them loose, than the 12 point wrench to remove. It took me 4 hrs to do but now I can do it 2 hrs now.

SWells679

Ok. Ok. I just went to check this out.
1) You're talking about that bracket adjacent to the rear mount itself? And the heat shield kinda goes up over the inboard passenger CV Axle?
2) I'm assuming that once you get that bracket loose, a floor jack allows you to move the engine/xmsn up enough to clear the mount?
3) In what order do you remove bolts?
4) Did you pull the airbox and go in from the top?

V/r
Scott
Hampton, VA

AP

Yellow circles are where the bolts are. This is looking from the top of the engine.



Rear motor mount bracket removed from the car.

1) Yes.
2) I used a floor jack to just support the transmission so that it would not move.
3) I removed the one for the heat shield first 12 mm. Next top center, than the one on the left, last one was the center bottom.
4) Yes remove the air box, you'll need all the room you can get. Also remove the O2 sensor that is the cable that is on the motor mount.
If you can take out the center bolt that holds the motor mount to the bracket than do it before removing all the other bolts.

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SWells679

RichVinAZ and AP,

I'm done! I finally finished this using the "remove the mount bracket" method described by AP. I tried videoing my tips, but my camera battery wasn't charged and, TBH, I just wanted to get done. Here's my input:

1) Car on jackstands, kinda high / front wheels removed (I did brakes earlier in the week & I just kept them off).
2) Removed battery and air-box for more room up top.
3) Floor jack with a chunk of wood to support the motor just forward of the frame subassy.
4) (under) 7/8" open end wrench: Remove O2 sensor and get the wire out of the way.
5) (under) 14mm wrench to remove the main center mount bolt. I broke it loose with a box end then removed with a speed wrench.
6) (under/passenger side wheel well) 12mm socket w/extensions to remove bracket from heat shield. I loosened it from underneath, but with the wheel off, it's easy to get to from the well.
7) (top) 14mm: remove top/center bolt from bracket (to the engine). Kinda tight...break it loose then you gotta get your fingers down there.
(top) 14mm: remove driver's side bolt from bracket ***this one is tough...the hardest part of the whole thing*** you can't get to it from underneath. I tried a socket with various universals and extensions, but in the end, I just used a good, 6 point wrench and put my weight down on it from the top. I did slide a large, deep well socket over the end of the wrench (and had on gloves) but that was about the only leverage I was able to obtain. G-R-U-N-T!!! Finally!
9) (under) 14mm: remove bottom/center bolt from bracket (to the engine)
10) (top) bracket comes right out thru the air-box area.
11) (under) loosen 3 ea. 14mm MOUNT bolt/nuts from the frame subassy, remove from the top.
12) Installation = reverse. (Mount then bracket)

Forgive me as I had planned on taking pix and/or video, but...you know how that goes. Just wanted to get it done. Like AP said above, use good 6 point wrenches.
Good luck and I'll check back if you have questions.

RichBinAZ

Well Done!!,
Looks like I will need to get on it.
Should be fun - just had our first 100F day of the year here in PHX. Will have to start early in the morning.

SWells679

100F ? Yowza. I'll monitor this thread, if you have questions...obviously, I'm not an expert, but since I JUST did it, it's fresh in my head.
I'm @SWells679 on instagram if you wanna send me a msg there or questions.
Good Luck!

AP

SWells679

Good job.