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Scion xA/xB 1st-Gen Drivetrain & Power Engine and transmission discussions...

So, here is my story with a header install...

Old Feb 6, 2010 | 04:32 AM
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Angry So, here is my story with a header install...

Got some DC 4-1 Headers. Used this DIY: https://www.scionlife.com/forums/scion-xa-xb-1st-gen-drivetrain-power-1638/dc-sports-4-1-header-installation-onto-xa-xb-15702/

That DIY is good in all, but I found this installation to be the most difficult in my life. Able to remove 3 out of 5 nuts on the exhaust manifold, and 1 out of 2 on the b-pipe joint.

Bolts/Nuts Numbers 1, 3, and 4 I was able to get off. Bolt 5 is impossible to even reach due to the fact that it is immediately behind the Steering Fluid Reservoir. Bolt 2 is possible, but extremely difficult to gain leverage. I eventually stripped the top. All 5 bolts used half a can of WD-40 and eventually some PBlaster.

The left bolt I was able to free with little problems.

The right bolt started difficult but I was able to get it off (almost), until the last few threads. Eventually, while loosening, it somehow tightened back up to a complete halt.

Keep in mind, I am a 17 yr old 6' 2" 140LB guy who can barely bench 70LBS, but I still find it extremely annoying that I was able to unscrew some, but not ALL. Also, I spent about 4-5 hours total on all this.

I now have to get my car towed to a local shop to finish the job. Plus, I will be out of a car for the next few days. Not necessarily good when you have a job.

Total price for this entire header project: ~$500-$600.

UPDATE 2/8/10: Well, I have it at a local exhaust shop right now. Original estimate is $150 for the install...We shall see how it goes. I will update this when they finish.

UPDATED 2/8/10: Shop just called, everything is ready. Total shop install time 3 hours...seems long for a few bolts...Pics inbound when in possession, along with a final price tag.

Last edited by ajcadoo; Feb 8, 2010 at 07:36 PM.
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 04:37 AM
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Hmm, sounds odd. The spring loaded bolts were def a b**ch when I did mine. Took us an hour just to get those out after we SOAKED them in WD40. I had my skinny friend do it since I can't fit under my box without much wiggling and hassle, lol.

So that other spring loaded blot just started to seize up on you?
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Big_Bird
Hmm, sounds odd. The spring loaded bolts were def a b**ch when I did mine. Took us an hour just to get those out after we SOAKED them in WD40. I had my skinny friend do it since I can't fit under my box without much wiggling and hassle, lol.

So that other spring loaded blot just started to seize up on you?
Yep, the right spring loaded was hard at first (just like the left) but released, and i was able to unscrew it multiple times before it started to halt just threads away from coming out altogether. I have tried so hard to free it again, but nothing. Absolutely nothing. So maddening.
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 05:25 AM
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I see you're a little green so heres some wrenching tips from a semi-old fart:

- If it won't come off, and you've soaked it in PB for awhile, heat up the nut w/ a torch. If you focus it right on the nut, the heat will make it expand and break free of the (colder) bolt.
- Once free of the initial stick, don't just try to spin the nut off. If it starts getting hard to spin again, flip the ratchet and tighten it a spin or two. Then flip again to loosen. Do this back and forth to clear the rust from the threads.
- breaker bars are named very appropriately. That is, if they're not used with finess they will break the hell outta whatever you're working on. They're a last resort after steps 1, 2,and 3 (impact). If you can't spin it off in one quick nudge of a breaker bar, expect to replace parts.

Aaaand once you finally get it off, coat the bolt in anti-seize before reassembly. I even use it on my wheel studs for buttery smooth winter/summer wheel swaps.

G/L finishing it up!
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by kileil
I see you're a little green so heres some wrenching tips from a semi-old fart:

- If it won't come off, and you've soaked it in PB for awhile, heat up the nut w/ a torch. If you focus it right on the nut, the heat will make it expand and break free of the (colder) bolt.
- Once free of the initial stick, don't just try to spin the nut off. If it starts getting hard to spin again, flip the ratchet and tighten it a spin or two. Then flip again to loosen. Do this back and forth to clear the rust from the threads.
- breaker bars are named very appropriately. That is, if they're not used with finess they will break the hell outta whatever you're working on. They're a last resort after steps 1, 2,and 3 (impact). If you can't spin it off in one quick nudge of a breaker bar, expect to replace parts.

Aaaand once you finally get it off, coat the bolt in anti-seize before reassembly. I even use it on my wheel studs for buttery smooth winter/summer wheel swaps.

G/L finishing it up!
Great info.....I'd like to add that a 3/8 socket will not work you definatly need 1/2 inch or bigger for the spring bolts. A couple of extensions to get the ratchet handle far enough away to put your whole body into it. Believe me it took all of my 300lbs to break mine loose, and I had only 500 miles on my new xB, not as much corrosion as I see on yours. The upper header bolts can be a pain I reached mine from over the top side. To keep from stripping them you need to use a closed end 6 point/side wrench that will keep it from slipping around the nut and stripping them. you did notice that 2 are studs that you hang the header on and 3 are bolts
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 05:19 PM
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use the right tools, drive size, etc. it will save u a lot of headaches. and x2 to what kileil said
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ajcadoo
Got some DC 4-1 Headers. Used this DIY: https://www.scionlife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15702

That DIY is good in all, but I found this installation to be the most difficult in my life. Able to remove 3 out of 5 nuts on the exhaust manifold, and 1 out of 2 on the b-pipe joint.

Bolts/Nuts Numbers 1, 3, and 4 I was able to get off. Bolt 5 is impossible to even reach due to the fact that it is immediately behind the Steering Fluid Reservoir. Bolt 2 is possible, but extremely difficult to gain leverage. I eventually stripped the top. All 5 bolts used half a can of WD-40 and eventually some PBlaster.

The left bolt I was able to free with little problems.

The right bolt started difficult but I was able to get it off (almost), until the last few threads. Eventually, while loosening, it somehow tightened back up to a complete halt.

Keep in mind, I am a 17 yr old 6' 2" 140LB guy who can barely bench 70LBS, but I still find it extremely annoying that I was able to unscrew some, but not ALL. Also, I spent about 4-5 hours total on all this.

I now have to get my car towed to a local shop to finish the job. Plus, I will be out of a car for the next few days. Not necessarily good when you have a job.

Total price for this entire header project: ~$500-$600.

theres your problem!

lol, JK

you first gen xb/xa guys have it difficult, this reminds me of the header install of my bros 08 si, took much longer then anticipated! damm tiny handed japanese people, lol
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 05:56 PM
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Invest in air tools
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by sdsnybny
Great info.....I'd like to add that a 3/8 socket will not work you definatly need 1/2 inch or bigger for the spring bolts. A couple of extensions to get the ratchet handle far enough away to put your whole body into it. Believe me it took all of my 300lbs to break mine loose, and I had only 500 miles on my new xB, not as much corrosion as I see on yours. The upper header bolts can be a pain I reached mine from over the top side. To keep from stripping them you need to use a closed end 6 point/side wrench that will keep it from slipping around the nut and stripping them. you did notice that 2 are studs that you hang the header on and 3 are bolts
Yes, i know 2 are nuts and 3 are bolts. i was able to get 1 nut. and 2 bolts.
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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wow, this is odd...i did mine last year and had no problems what so ever, wish you luck though.
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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The key to xB header install was PB Blaster sprayed on all bolts the night before.
Total cost for my ebay header was around 60 bucks.
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:10 PM
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hmm i was thinking about installing a header soon, maybe i will just let a shop do it.. i know it will cost more, but it will be much faster.
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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Do you guys think that idling the engine for a minute or two might loosen up those bolts? I know the headers can heat up to extreme temps pretty quickly, plus the heat might help expand the stuck nuts/bolts. Also, would PBlaster be more effective when heated?

Finally, to all xB owners: how the heck did you get nut #5 off?! It is blocked by the steering fluid.
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bB2NER
The key to xB header install was PB Blaster sprayed on all bolts the night before.
Total cost for my ebay header was around 60 bucks.
What a cheap header!
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ShawnBenton
hmm i was thinking about installing a header soon, maybe i will just let a shop do it.. i know it will cost more, but it will be much faster.
Yeah, based on my experience, I would buy the header online and have someone install it themselves. The sad thing is, I havent even got the old thing off...and I spent 5 hours on that puppy! There are probably 2x more headaches when installing the new!
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ajcadoo
What a cheap header!
Yes, but high quality. Still looks new after 2 plus years, and flows oh so nicely!
Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ajcadoo
Do you guys think that idling the engine for a minute or two might loosen up those bolts? I know the headers can heat up to extreme temps pretty quickly, plus the heat might help expand the stuck nuts/bolts. Also, would PBlaster be more effective when heated?

Finally, to all xB owners: how the heck did you get nut #5 off?! It is blocked by the steering fluid.
Some heat might help. The #5 bolt I used a box wrench and 1/4" drive swivel. It's been awhile but I don't remember any issues. :?

Here is an early thread on the ebay header install. Happy reading.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=130126

Last edited by bB2NER; Feb 6, 2010 at 11:16 PM.
Old Feb 7, 2010 | 01:09 AM
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Wow sorry about the drama, mine went so easy I dragged out an hour to do it. 20,000 miles no winter road driving may have some positive factoids to my ease.

Great suggestions on here already.
Old Feb 7, 2010 | 01:19 AM
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This makes me want to check my header now. See what the winters have done to it.
Old Feb 7, 2010 | 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Driver_Lost
Wow sorry about the drama, mine went so easy I dragged out an hour to do it. 20,000 miles no winter road driving may have some positive factoids to my ease.

Great suggestions on here already.
I have 45K and it has been in So Cal its whole lifetime. No snow here...

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