want low end power...
#1
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want low end power...
Hey i drive an automatic 06 xB. I've already upgraded the intake and love the new power. Summer is setting in and so is heat. I hate the feeling of accelarating from a stoplight now because untill i hit 3000 rpm i basically dont move. What should i upgrade next so i can get moving faster.
#5
Eh, it's been getting hotter. I have an auto too. I have an intake and axle back exhaust... Some power there, not too much. Not gonna have much low end power. Ive heard headers give you most noticable power. Don't run the AC. ____ty thing about autos like the xB in hot heat is your going to really notice that lag. Stepped on the gas and went no where =P
#6
yeah..uhm...you got an auto xa, power, especially low end torque wasn't high on the priorities list. if your okay with it, not opening a debate here, put on a set of lightweight engine pullys to free up some horsepower lost to parasitic drain powering your accessories.
#8
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well ya know, I really didnt give a S#!+ about cars when i got my box so of course i didnt want to deal with manual because driving was about getting from A to B. When the horsepower craving set in and i got into modding, I was stuck with auto. So this is waht I hhave to work with, I'm to attached to my first car to ever do any sort of trade in, so i'll sooner drop $5000 for a transmition swap than trade.
The advice for getting a lightweight pully sounds solid though, i think I'll look into that, thanks.
The advice for getting a lightweight pully sounds solid though, i think I'll look into that, thanks.
#10
C150 manual trany new at your dealer for about $2,250, you could probably do the swap out your self if you know what your doing so you don't end up paying 60+ per hour for a mechanic to do it for you...
also, i've been looking into a 3SGTE swap on the xB which would be starting around 200hp @6k and 200lbs torque @3.2k and works it's way upto the 250-260 section and can be built to handle anywhere from 500-700hp *if done correctly* but realisticly the 400 mark i would say is the highest you should ever WANT to go being that the 3SGTE was one of the first fwd engines to put fwd cars into the 9 second mark on the quater mile. it's an option but i'm still trying to see what transmissions fit it and whatnot.
also, i've been looking into a 3SGTE swap on the xB which would be starting around 200hp @6k and 200lbs torque @3.2k and works it's way upto the 250-260 section and can be built to handle anywhere from 500-700hp *if done correctly* but realisticly the 400 mark i would say is the highest you should ever WANT to go being that the 3SGTE was one of the first fwd engines to put fwd cars into the 9 second mark on the quater mile. it's an option but i'm still trying to see what transmissions fit it and whatnot.
#11
i have an auto 06 xb, and when i added the Vertex Racing short ram intake my low end torque showed improvement, so i dunno why you have such a lag. the only time mine lags is when i first start it and the a/c is running.
#12
4-2-1 header helps. I noticed a considerable loss in torque with Fujita SR. Took it off and torque is back. TRD exhaust is going on in a few days, we'll see how that mixes with the header....
#13
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Hey Winter, thanks for the part # and advice and what not. I'm on a tight budget but if i've ever got some cash built up i wall defninately look into that.
Also several people said a 4-2-1 header would help a lot and i was wondering why that is better than a 4-1 header. The only xB header im familliar with is the 4-1 by DC, does anyone know of a good 4-2-1?
Also several people said a 4-2-1 header would help a lot and i was wondering why that is better than a 4-1 header. The only xB header im familliar with is the 4-1 by DC, does anyone know of a good 4-2-1?
#14
there is one i remember reading about it but i can't remember who makes it. i really don't know the diffrence beteen 4-1, 4-2-1 and 4-3-2-1 headers but i think it's for a smoother intake flow.
#18
apparently the belt begins to have unusual wear and will go bad VERY fast. the stock pully is a dampening pully that has it's own sort of balancing system to help balance the crank and reduce harmonics that the metal produces at certain RPM's. mainly it's just an issue with the belt, i havn't heard anything else but still, the belt wears out actualy sooner then 20k miles. i think it's more in the 2k region.though there is a good power gain from the pully swap, but the idea of stocking up on belts would be recommended aswell.
#20
happy for ya, just what i've read is all. i think it's a balance thing really, slight grains of dirty between the pully and the crank bolt piece for the pully. even something like that is all it takes really but who knows.