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Perrin Rail and Injector Install. Any BS?

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Old 07-31-2006, 06:49 PM
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Default Perrin Rail and Injector Install. Any BS?

So I installed the Perrin fuel rail and 330cc injectors off a celica this weekend. Let me clear a few things up for people that want to install these parts.

#1. The Perrin rail is NOT a complete bolt on...unless you want to remove the valve cover. If you look to the bottom right of the valve cover there is a "hook" to the head. The Perrin instructions ask you to shave of cut that off so you can remove the stock line and install the new rail. The stock harness will NOT squeeze through there. Trust me, I tried. Other than that, the install should take you about 10 minutes at most.

#2. The injectors are even easier to install. Make sure you have some installation grease or something to help fitment of the new rail. New o-rings would help also.

Results? Anyone who is going FI or tuning your car with a piggyback like the Emange or AFC....what you generally want to do is do as few corrections as possible. To do that, youll need the right parts for the type of power you are looking to make. That means choosing the right size injectors for the extra air coming into the engine, etc. I figured since ZPI used 370cc injectors and NO Emanage tuning to make 184whp at 7.5psi of boost, that my 330cc injectors should work fine with no Emanage tuning as they did. BS. After installing the injectors and rail by car would hardly idle. Well, it would idle for about 10 seconds and then die. I Figured the combination of both might be overkill so I put the stock rail back on...same thing. In order for the car to idle, I would need to continually rev it so i wouldnt die out. I tried to take a spin around the block. Under boost, the car would sputter and shoot black smoke out...clearly a sign of being rich. So, myth or claim BUSTED. These were only 330cc injectors with full boost of 7.5psi at 2800rpm. I cant even imagine how hard it would be to drive or if it would even drive in a 370cc injected car with full boost of 7.5psi at 3800rpm. The car should not even idle nor be drivable to make it to a dyno.
Anyhow, I had to lean the fuel out 18% just for the car to idle. Im running rich right now at -15% fuel correction at 30+% throttle position. So, for those who want to upgrade your fuel for FI. The rail and 330cc injectors are plenty. The pump is pushing out more than enough fuel for the 7.5 psi I am running. The Emange lets you do a fuel correction of up to 50%. I am at 18% right now and still rich at idle. You really dont want to go any bigger without changing fp or going with a standalone.
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:17 PM
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Thanks Rollhard. I for one appreciate the work you are doing with your xB. Once you get the tuning worked out with the rail and injectors, let us know how you do on the dyno.

Do you think you will be switching to a stand alone? Or what is your next step?
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RTon20s
Thanks Rollhard. I for one appreciate the work you are doing with your xB. Once you get the tuning worked out with the rail and injectors, let us know how you do on the dyno.

Do you think you will be switching to a stand alone? Or what is your next step?
I will eventually be going to a standalone most likely. I just want to know the limits of each mod so it can shed some light to others who might want to do some things and not others. For example, when I first went FI, everyone jumped to tell me to upgrade my rail, injectors and pump. I was even told to do so by people who dont even have FI on their cars! lol. Well, now you know, at 7.5psi, the stock pump seems to be doing fine. Hopefully this info will help someone save the $90 or so for a pump and the hastle of installing it. Also, like I said, you want to go with the fewest amount of correction as possible on the piggyback. Larger injectors for 7.5 psi, youre just asking for a tuning headache.

With about 6-7psi of boost, the 1n makes about 23% increase in power. If you want 180whp+, just turn the boost up to 15psi or so, make the power, blow your motor or damage other parts, then to cover it up, stay silent when asked questions.
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by rollhard
If you want 180whp+, just turn the boost up to 15psi or so, make the power, blow your motor or damage other parts, then to cover it up, stay silent when asked questions.

So when your not boosting or dynoing cars. Do you write conspiracy theory novels? J/K
Are you going to dyno the new fuel setup?
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ProshopXB
Originally Posted by rollhard
If you want 180whp+, just turn the boost up to 15psi or so, make the power, blow your motor or damage other parts, then to cover it up, stay silent when asked questions.

So when your not boosting or dynoing cars. Do you write conspiracy theory novels? J/K
Are you going to dyno the new fuel setup?
Haha, honestly, I know poeple personally who have gotten screwed so if any information I can give that will help prevent someone from spending unnecesary money or mods that arent needed then thats cool. Yes, I will dyno the car with the new fuel set up. I actually want to increase the boost at this time. Im just taking things slow so I can see the limits of each mod, etc. As for tuning, that is a must. Even with me taking out over 10% fuel on the top end, the car is running really really rich.
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