Wondering who makes internals for the xb/xa motor. Looking for rods, pistons, springs, retainers and while I'm at it, a clutch that will hold up. I would appreciate any info if these things exist yet.

 

Im looking too, I have a turbo but I'd like to see what internals I can beef up first.

 

everything has to be custom guys. arias pistons are available tho. but rods and the like is all a custom shindig. get ready for fun.

as far as clutch theres spec , act , exedy and like 1 other brand

get a heavy suty pressure plate . and for street use a stage 1 or street disc. just make sure you get a sprung hub clutch disc. if you get a solid hub prepare to chatter like crazy. theres 3 puck , 4 puck and 6 puck if you really wanna rattle fillings for the off chance of getting a .1 or .2 better in the 1/4.

 

the other clutch is Clutch Masters....

while you're doing the clutch, do the flywheel too.

 

Do some research at Echodrivers...... i've seen some interesting links.....

 

i found this
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...ek-toyota.html
and look what they have for the 1nzfe

 

too bad they don't have rods.

if you do a lightened flywheel you will have to match revs every single shift. i drive too much in the city for all that.

 

And you still need fuel management, upgraded injectors, return line, oil line connection for the turbo, and a bunch of other misc stuff.

I have the lightened flywheel, and stage 4 clutch sitting here, and a bunch of other fiddly bits.

Most of the stuff you are looking for should be covered in a few other threads about turbo installs/requirements.

 

Brad is right...it can get tedious with all the little things you hafta deal with to do it right. The money stacks up real quick and before you know it you have spent a lot more than you planned
Happy holidays and happy New Year to you and your family Brad

 

THANKS Vito! I hope you have a great New Years also! (3 days and counting for my new arm.)

 

brad you're going to make you car cali illegal? uh oh. it's ok i won't tell if you don't. lol

 

Darren, its been illegal since the day I bought it. I didn't have the front plate mounted, I took the reg packet off of the lower corner of the windshield as soon as I drove off the lot, the license plate frame and paper plate came off at the same time also, and then 2 days later it was tinted.

 

still tho. i mean like smog reff. huge fines , major inconvenience and always having to pay 200 for an illegal smog. kind of illegal.

 

I know about all the "little" things that will add up. I used to race hondas, not just bolt-ons, full blown top to bottom. I'm prepared for those things. I really appreciate all the info on who to talk to though. I have been able to locate everything ecept springs, retainers and rods. I know they can be done to order, but that costs more than buying off the self. anyway, thanks everybody.

Hash

 

Yeah, custom roods start at $600.

 

The engine won't be able to handle "that" much more hp with forged internals...say maybe 15psi tops...i'd stick to about 13.

So as for as the others information on clutch setups this n that, if you do go that route...underpower your clutch knowinging how the car handles too much power. Why would someone spend the thounsands to forge and turbo the scion engine and have it get ruined by a strong clutch that grabs like a mother yet the supporting aspects like the axles and mounts will get torn up...and they will. Sad to say but the car itself can't supoort too much without an overhaul.

I had a tranny mount go out on me from just using nitrous on my xB and that was the weirdest thing I saw in a long time. Imagine launching a brand new, nearly stock car and next thing you know you hear a loud boom and the car won't turn. Pop the hood and the engine was slammed forward and tilted down on one side like 3in.

I'm just saying, if you get yourself built like how you want, don't go with a crazy grabbing clutch setup cuz it'll cause more problems than the engine.

 

The factory rods are already a forged rod. The only way you will get stronger is going with an h-beam style. The factory rods can already handle whatever you want to push for boost. Its the location of the pin in the rod that is rumored to cause a problem. You will blow the head gasket out before you break a rod...

 

what about cryotreating?

 

Man, there is sooooo much guessing on this board. I am willing to lay my wallet on the line that this motor can make 200WHP reliably without a single modification to the block itself. ECU and proper fuel is the key. A relaxed tune with adjustable timing is needed. I probably won't have the time to get into this for a while but I will. I can't live without boost on this car.

I have built multiple blown V6's in the 400+HP range and I am sure this motor can take 200. NOBODY here seems to use ANY kind of scanning equipment to monitor the motor and what it is actually doing. Does anybody know what the knock sensors are picking up? What actual commanded timing is?

I have some good sources for PCM/ECU work in the 3800v6 community I am a part of and will be contacting them to see about having some full rewrites of the code to incorporate larger injectors, different fuel maps, and timing setups. I bet we could pull ~10-15hp out of the ECU N/A... boosted would be even more.

Anyway, continue on.. this talk just sounds too much like our 3800 crowd did when people were thinking of running 15psi... now they push in the 30's.. ON STOCK BOTTOMS. Keep your fuel up, timing under watch, and you can make boat loads of reliable power. Beefing up the mounts of the motor just come with the territory.

 

Boogie, have you seen how thin the cylinder walls are? And did you know the ECU in the xB is self-correcting BACK to OEM specs?

And if was so easy to do 200 whp on the 1NZ, don't you think it would have been done by now? The xB has been out for over 2.5 years, and the 1NZ has been running around in Echos for longer than that.