Winter

OK, so i've been comparing many different kits that are out there as a quick turbo fix but i just decided to say screw it and do my own setup due to a few reasons...

1. i had planned on cutting the cosmetic part of the front bumper that covers the crash bar for future plans. i was going to cut that out and turn that entire section into one huge vent area to create a much bigger usable area of ventilation for a much larger intercooler for a much larger power application such as motor swap with bigger turbo and 300+hp.

2. i'd like a bit of extra power over the stock just to have a bit of fun here and there. i'm in no situation to to have a monstrous xB right now and don't want to get my self trapped in a situation that i can't get out of. so i'm going for a more simple setup both based on my fun times and my environment.

3. some things i notice about other kits is they are specifically based on a stock bolt on setup. my kit, however, would not be based on purely stock bolt on and go. alot of kits i find to be inefficient or poorly laid out.

so i got to thinking about my own kit setup. using a Garrett GT2554R as the power core and see about getting the pre-programed TRD turbo ECU that originally comes with the TRD turbo kit for the bB *xB* and possibly the upgrade injectors from that kit aswell separately. if not... then a greddy Emanage, tC injectors and perin fuel rail will do just fine. i would leave boost levels around 5-7lbs until ATLEAST new rods are purchased.

obviously new rods = increased weight which means lower economy. yes yes i know turboing should mean you don't care about your economy, so shooosh about that. the point of this is the most efficient turbo setup, not only for power but for fuel economy aswell. so that being said, here is a list of what i have come up with to make up the perfect setup including a crude drawing of the setup based on the modification to the front bumper.

general list:
-GT2554R turbo
-Garrett intercooler 10" *hot flow length* x 12.3" *no flow* x 3" *cold flow* (mounted vertically instead of the normal horizontal)
-all aluminum charge piping
-TRD kit injectors or tC stock injectors
-perin fuel rail
-TRD kit ECU or Emanage
-Greddy modded oil pan for oil fittings or other means of oil supply
-crower rods
-10.0 forged pistons to keep NA power out of spool
-bearings
-NKG plugs *already got them with short gap 38, not 44*
-2.25" exhaust OR keep stock exhaust with wide band O2 sensor and use a dump valve at the down pipe for silent daily acceleration and for full power, a restrictive-less exhaust *the second idea is what i'm thinking about doing and have it set for 2 or 3lbs of boost and higher*
-the thought has crossed my mind to spend the extra cash for a Tial stainless steel exhaust housing for the GT25 for increase boost response, reliability and make use for easy turbo clocking to make the setup work properly
-Tial BOV, no need to spend the extra cash for an HKS one when it's the same freakin design... it's just not as pretty at the HKS and i don't have a need to have that legendary SS BOV that can handle 80lbs of boost when i'll never see past 12lbs on this setup
-Light weight fly wheel, preferably Chromoly
-stage3 clutch

don't think i'm missing anything here.... setup is suppose to be a average 7-8lbs boost daily. internals are for increase reliability. here is the crude drawing i did, just remember, the front bumper is modded and the intercooler would be sitting over on the more driver side of the new grill. a single coat of black paint would be put over the intercooler so that it wouldn't look as fully through the grill, it would be hardly noticeable. the perfect stealth-ish setup aside from using a bypass valve rather then the "obviously i'm turbo'ed" sound of a normal BOV. what can i say... i have a thing for the BOV sound

drawing:

captdownshift

same some coin and just purchase an off the shelve lightened flywheel or have your stock one lightened.

i agree with using tial bits over hks, honestly i like tial stuff better then HKS, not that there's anything wrong with HKS. your choice of turbo is spot on.

EM wise i'd go with the new plug and play AEM setup or megasquirt. the JDM trd turbo ecu may work, but it's going to be setup for a completely different turbo setup running different parameters. get something tuneable and run a good quality wideband. the words pre-programmed ecu for a forced induction scares the bee-jeesus out of me, esp when doing a completely custom turbo setup.



honestly if i were in your shoes i'd look into the readily available kits and decide which one is best for you. some of the producers would likely supply you one without a turbo so you can supply your own 2554r. then find a machine shop to modify the supplied manifold.

when it's the first time you're putting together a custom turbo setup it's a lot easier to start with a kit/setup that you know works. it's also generally easier on the cash flow without having the car down for a long period of time.

if you have any other questions or ideas though i'd gladly respond to any you have

JSosa

This kit your setting up is alot like Todd's at Turbo Toyotas. Your running the charge pipes in the same manner, your using a horizontal flow intercooler, the turbo is a GT2554R, your running 7lbs of boost, as well as cutting the front crash bumper.

Your parts list is good and the only thing i would say is go with a 2.5" exhaust. I have a 2.25" (no cat, no resonator) and i still feel like it could use a little more flow. Also, if your going to put down coin for the pistons, go with 9.5 or under. Dont waste your time with 10.0 pistons because if you wanna make power, your going to need a low compression. For now it will work without a problem, but i dont know how it would react under 15lbs of boost. As im sure you know, very few people have gone above the 15 psi mark, at that pressure pistons aren't your only concern. Will the block hold? Will the head hold? How are your temperatures going to be affected, oil, water, transmission, etc??

I have the almost the same setup you do, but im running 2ZZ-GE injectors, which are more than enough. Not to forget, my bottom-end is completely OEM. Its running harder than ever.

With enough time, patience and $MONEY$, you will be able to make this power, but have you thought about how much our chassis can take?? Im hitting the 171WHP mark and i dont think the chassis enjoys it. It goes pretty crazy when you stomp on the accelerator, i dont want to imagine how 200+WHP would feel like.

Maybe you should look into a LSD, I am.

captdownshift

limited slips are always a good thing, even at stock power when autocrossing i could def use one to put more power down.

Winter

this isn't for making tons of boost. this is for efficiency and attention to detail.

i can do about 90% of the work my self, the only part i can't do my self is the tuning, the rest is easy to me.

in a general setup, i would use lower compression pistons based on planning on using VERY high boost levels with very high octane fuels. this setup isn't based on that.

this is for a daily turbo setup with engine internals included for reliability. done with an efficient charge piping setup. OEM crash bar removed but new crash made to replace it. OEM chrash bar is made from 4140 chromoly sheet metal, new crash bar is design to fit around the intercooler layout and consisting of two bars working as one and will be made of the same material unless i can get ahold of some 4340 chromoly.

target power is only 150whp which is no biggy. limited slip is something i was considering, but didn't feel it was necessary to list because it didn't have to do with the turbo setup in it's self, that would be more targeted towards drivetrain which it will still be there anyway. why do power mods and not get atleast a 1.5way? that's just dumb.

as for chassis twisting, i plan on seam welding the whole vehicle on top of adding some inner bracing, either a cage from chromoly or do a non-weld machine build with 7075 aluminum, similar strengths just can't weld the stuff but much lighter. but i'm not getting into that just yet. this is reliability daily kit, not meant for track or the straight.

it's for that effect of "wtf?! was that a scion?!?!" and to have acceleration that puts my head to the seat. that's all i care about .

blown_xa

that's a lot of work to drive around town, but kudos and good luck.

captdownshift

as someone that has been on the business end of cages ( as in the thump! end) go with DOM opposed to chromoly. if my life depended on it i'd choose DOM over chromoly every time. but i wouldn't put either in a street car even with two layers of cage padding, unless a helmet were going to be worn while driving at all times.

Winter

Chromoly is just more readily available to me.

i've never been on the "being bumped" side of a cage, i'm sure it's like a mack truck hitting you. but at the same time, everyone who has ever ridden with me as a driver, they know i'm going to be the "bumper" in the accident. i've been complimented almost a half dozen times from police for my driving techniques avoiding wrecks.

not trying to toot my own horn or anything, just mentioning. a cage in my hands, i can't say will NEVER, but i can say atleast the chances of me being the "bumper" in a wreck is probably less then being struck by lightening *knocks on wood*. if anything, someone will hit ME by being an idiot and when they do, instead of hitting another economy car, it'll be like them hitting a good sized truck. if so, then good, shows they weren't paying attention and probably were on their cell phone or something...

i've been in two wrecks with a vehicle using a cage. both i was in the caged vehicle and both times WE were the one's getting bumped. one of which i would have been killed if that cage wasn't there.

i wont be using a cage though for this setup. i'm not sure if i'll be needing it or not yet. the future plans will require a cage for sure but this... no.

i'd really like to sure more into the full project dealing with this but seems to make people shy away and not want to listen in. and all it takes is me saying "water fuel cell" or AKA hydrogen generator.

*keep near stock compression = keeps out of boost power.
*forged internals = increased strength and reliability.
*lightened flywheel and pulley wheel = weight reduction to counter the weight gain of the new rods and heavier duty clutch.
*GT2554R turbo with Tial Stainless Steel exhaust housing = increased boost response with corrosion resistance against increase water vapor levels from the ending result of burnt hydrogen.
*total custom setup = shortest boost travel resulting in the quickest of boost response with less piping volume to pre-fill.
*hydrogen generator = attempt to increase fuel economy levels while at the same time acting as a natural octane enhancer while in and out of boost. also the first *that i know of* hydrogen generator setup done with a turbo setup.

that being said, what money is spent and what work is done will go a LONG way. oddly enough, the cell *hydrogen generator* will make up nearly half the cost of the setup.

Yes, those water fuel cells you hear about do work... but it's not as simple as just spending 50 bucks at the local hardware store... special materials, circuitry and cell design must all be perfect, otherwise you put your self in danger or disbelief. so far, the tally for my design which is specifically for the 1NZFE and enhanced for use with the turbo setup, is roughly $2,000. this is not including the cost for machining or electrician work if you your self don't have the means to do it your self.

now that you and or anyone else has seen this. this is what my mass plan is. the turbo setup in it's self isn't a problem at all, it's a sinch to me. the construction of the cell is incredibly difficult.

my main thing here is if i've got the setup right. from all that i've learned about turboing and the science behind it all, it should do nicely. i don't care about how much i can possibly get for power, i care about doing a well rounded setup for the experiment.

captdownshift

i really really don't want to hate, but if you are even remotely capable of fabbing up a hydrogen fuel cell then a turbo kit, no matter how custom, would be no problem what so ever. and you would be able to make hundreds of millions of dollars selling retro-fit fuel cell kits to car owners everywhere.

once again, i'm not trying to hate and i'd absolutely LOVE for you to prove me wrong (no sarcasm)

TurboToyotas

Winter-

just my .02 worth-

1. Good choice in turbo...Tial housing wont do anything but look cool(cant really see it) and its fun to say you have it.

2. Don't use the Tial BOV..even with a race spring you will have idle issues as it wont stay closed....its random.

4. if you want shorter piping for boost response, relocate the battery, use a barrel style water to air IC, and get creative with the air filter......will take away half your piping, no need to remove the crossmember and will provide lower AIT's than the air to air.

3. Chromly splinters when its hit, keep that in mind. Yes you might have it readily available and its light, but its a hazard to you and anyone you might hit. Better safe than sorry. Go with some mild steel tubing...keep it a decent thickness as it will provide the strength you need but will also be more forgiving in an accident.( a few more lbs is nothing)

4. Hydrogen generator......you wont be the first ...its another gizmo, not worth it in the end as far as power goes....but again fun to say you have it. (although what you mentioned is way more complicated than whay I am talking about)

5. oops forgot one.....

If you an get your hands on a reflash'd stock ecu for the xB, use it along with a piggy back....you will be amazed.

Have fun

Regards-

Todd

blown_xa

seems like good tips. The wastegate... is it because the valve seat is a seperate peice that somtimes binds and wont sit flat? that is my suspicion.

I saw a very innovative set-up at the track months ago... a guy swapped a f150 motor into a v6 mustang chassis... turbo'd it and the intercooler was very cool, well it was actually a custom block attached to the intake manifold with water passages which led to a water container packed with ice (and water of coarse) and run by an electronic pump to a radiator in the front to further ensure the water is cool. it was like the vortech supercharger aftercooler set-up on a s2000 but more refined.

Winter

Hey Todd! nice to see you again.

my hydrogen generator is nothing like the stupid little gadgets you see all over the place that say they will save so much on MPG's and all that. most are just scams that work to a point but nothing noticeable. my design is conventional at most with some additives to it to improve it's production. i can afford a good 2 grand in a good cell if it's going to give me good results in the end which this will by my knowledge. the idea isn't to eliminate use of gasoline, but to turn the engine's gasoline demands into a power buffer demand and have cruising moments mainly powered by hydrogen while harsh throttling will have more gas then hydrogen as a power buffer for acceleration. pretty easy to do this, just need to get a more powerful alternator from Iraggi and it'll be easy as cake. not meant to boost power, but if production is high enough flowing, it will cause more power production due to the massive energy it's capable of in larger volumes. i wont be testing the full potential of my cell design on the 1NZFE... with about 5 litres of pure distilled electrolyzed water... 80amps of max output draw at 5,000hz pulsing rate with pre-heated internally to 150-170degree range... that thing is going to be capable of MAD production. i'm not joking around with this setup



as for the Tial exhaust housing, i'm getting it for multiple reasons. ONE - to prevent internal corrosion from the burnt hydrogen turned water eating away at the original stock housing. TWO - it's V-flange based and doesn't require gaskets and is easy to disassemble for cleaning. THREE - easy to clock. FOUR - according the the ST185 Celica guys who have used Tial's SS housings, they always find improved turbo response and swear by it... and that's pretty much it on that.

as for the Tial BOV, to my understanding, HKS's BOV design is directly copied from Tial's BOV design and is just prettier? if there are idle issues then i'm going to have to get an HKS...

AzNpImP67O

looks like it would be a nice setup... hope to see some numbers sometime...

Tamago

DOM is Drawn Over Mandrel.. it's a process not a type of metal

you can have DOM chromoly