What to run with my supercharged xB?
#1
What to run with my supercharged xB?
I have just bought a 2005 xB that has had a GReddy supercharger installed with an Injen cold air intake and some sort of aftermarket headers and exhaust. I would not have done the mods myself, but I got a great deal on the car. All the mods seem to be done very well and professionally and the car runs great. That being said, I have a few questions being that I am a FI noob.
What weight oil should I run? 5W-30 like Toyota recommends or something else? Oil change interval? Anything else special that I need to do that I might not know about? What octane - is 87 alright or do I need to run 89 or 92?
It is running 5 psi of boost. Ballpark, what kind of HP/Torque should I see over stock. It does pull pretty good compared to my stock 2004.
I appreciate any insight/words of wisdom...thanks much!
What weight oil should I run? 5W-30 like Toyota recommends or something else? Oil change interval? Anything else special that I need to do that I might not know about? What octane - is 87 alright or do I need to run 89 or 92?
It is running 5 psi of boost. Ballpark, what kind of HP/Torque should I see over stock. It does pull pretty good compared to my stock 2004.
I appreciate any insight/words of wisdom...thanks much!
Last edited by fatguy; 09-18-2009 at 09:19 PM. Reason: Aother question
#4
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please do not run 87 in a boosted vehicle so many problems can come of that. premium only.
youre probably looking at about 125whp with 5psi on these engines (correct me if im wrong)
i agree with Ian about the oil and would say depending on how hard you run it is how long you should go between oil changes, run it hard and change your oil every 3000 miles, just kind of put put around town and occasionally get on it, then i would say you should be good to go for the recommended 5000 miles.
youre probably looking at about 125whp with 5psi on these engines (correct me if im wrong)
i agree with Ian about the oil and would say depending on how hard you run it is how long you should go between oil changes, run it hard and change your oil every 3000 miles, just kind of put put around town and occasionally get on it, then i would say you should be good to go for the recommended 5000 miles.
#5
misformartin - I don't understand the 1 or 2 stage colder plug. Could you give me a little more info - not really speaking the FI lingo just yet.
Thanks again for the suggestions, you guys are great!
#6
1
taken from ngk's website
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
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