3 12"s anyone?
anyone running 3 12"s ? i jus ordered my 3 alpine 12"s and i know thwy will fit but im not shure how i want to install them.. anyone got some pics w/ there setup to give me some ideas?
type e i had a pair of type e 10's and they pounded w/ jus 500 watts but they were like 7 years old and i pushed thep a little too hard.. so i decided 2 go w/ 12's im gana run them w/ a kenwood amp 850 watts at 2 ohms and the 3rd sub will be powered by my old amp 350 watts at 4 ohms then a 3rd amp for mids and highs
I agree with Violent here. You would be better off running 3 12's off of 1 amp. Here comes the harder part to that scenario... the impedance. Judging by your reference to the 2 12's being at a 2 ohm load, I am assuming the 12's are single 4-ohm coils. This being the case, wiring all 3 woofs parallel would run you a 1.33 ohm load. This would be an issue for a cheap amp, but with a good quality amp, those twelves would hit hard enough to shatter concrete!! Have you checked into JL's Slash series amps? Their class D amps are rated for a 1.5-4 ohm load, but should be fully capable of supporting your 1.33 ohm setup with enough power to boom.
I would advise not to use the JL Audio amplifier. Because of the R.I.P.S. power supply section, ANYTHING below the 1.5 ohm minimum will cause the amplifier to go into one of its five protection modes and shut down. Instead, I would wire the woofers into 8 ohm impedance and parallel all three into a final 2.66 ohm impedance. Using a solid 500 watt amplifier will do the trick. In this scenario, a JL Audio 500/1 will do just fine. You might get a little head light flicker, don't buy a capacitor to remedy this. You will be disappointed in the money you wasted trying to do so. So, what to do? Go with the JL Audio A1800. This is a non regulated power supply amplifier, it cost the same as the 500/1 and will not destroy you alternator. Each woofer will get around 250 watts each and assuming your enclosure is built properly, will sound incredible!
the amp i got is a Kenwood KAC-9102D 500x1 at 4 ohms and 850x 1 at 2 ohms it says class d disign... and it says min. impendence of 2 ohm... and w/ the 3 subs it would be a 1.34ohm load and i dont see how to wire it for a 2.66ohm load...
a load below 2 ohm would make the amp go in to protection right??
and yes i planned on makeing the 1 sub its own compartment in the box and the other 2 that are on the same amp togeather in the rest of the box ... but if i get it worked out for the 3 to be on the same amp i dont have to.. and i can sell my old amp....
a load below 2 ohm would make the amp go in to protection right??
and yes i planned on makeing the 1 sub its own compartment in the box and the other 2 that are on the same amp togeather in the rest of the box ... but if i get it worked out for the 3 to be on the same amp i dont have to.. and i can sell my old amp....
Originally Posted by lppro-xb
anyone running 3 12"s ? i jus ordered my 3 alpine 12"s and i know thwy will fit but im not shure how i want to install them.. anyone got some pics w/ there setup to give me some ideas?
King was right. The JL 500/1 would not like anything less than 1.5ohm. I learn something new everyday. As for the 2.66 wiring, I believe King was under the impression that these were dual 4-ohm coils, but they are in actuality, single 4-ohm coils, correct? 3 single 4-ohm woofs would give you a 4/3 or approximately 1.33 impedance. This is below what most amps will do, not just the JL or your Kenwood. Certain high-current amps are capable of loads at this range, but they would draw an imense amount of current from your charging system as well as create enough heat across their heatsinks to boil an egg. I guess a safe answer to your question would be, use another amp for the 3rd woofer if you absolutely must run 3 12's. I personally think two off your existing Kenwood amp would be more than sufficient, and allow you some extra pocket change by selling the older amp. This would also allow for more room, as another enclosure would not be necessary.
Speaking from the laws of physics, in order to gain 3 db more volume you need to either double you power, or double you cone area. So, by losing 1 sub, you only drop 3 db. That is about one "click" on you radio. Not a whole bunch. You can make up the loss by porting you enclosure and maybe even gaining 6 db to boot!
I say, two 12s, one amp, and a happier charging system for doing so.
I say, two 12s, one amp, and a happier charging system for doing so.
well i allready got 3 12"s so im gana make it work and yes they are single 4 ohm subs
heres my box disign so far....
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lpprox.../ph//my_photos
do you think i can get away w/ useing 1/2 inch mdf insted of 3/4inch?? this way it would weigh alot less....
heres my box disign so far....
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lpprox.../ph//my_photos
do you think i can get away w/ useing 1/2 inch mdf insted of 3/4inch?? this way it would weigh alot less....
I'd most definitely use the 3/4" mdf and add in bracing on the inside of the box.
also, sell the 2 amps you have and buy one amp that's stable down to 1 ohm. an excellent choice is the Nine.1 from Elemental Design. 1200x1@1ohm RMS... it's only $315 shipped with the Forum Discount that you'll get for being a member here.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...roducts_id=352
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=44
also, sell the 2 amps you have and buy one amp that's stable down to 1 ohm. an excellent choice is the Nine.1 from Elemental Design. 1200x1@1ohm RMS... it's only $315 shipped with the Forum Discount that you'll get for being a member here.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...roducts_id=352
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=44
Oh, c'mon now, King, you know Sony uses some of the hardest cardboard known to man! That stuff will certainly support 3 subs with 1,000 watts a piece! Yeah, and adding a manufacturer's sticker to your window increases your SPL by 10db! LOL
As a template, the box design looks like you are headed in the right direction. Have you thought about materials such as fiberglass, or are you set on using MDF? If done well, glass will be every bit as strong while providing almost limitless design possibilities. ...Not to mention, looking totally trick when painted the same color as the car.
As a template, the box design looks like you are headed in the right direction. Have you thought about materials such as fiberglass, or are you set on using MDF? If done well, glass will be every bit as strong while providing almost limitless design possibilities. ...Not to mention, looking totally trick when painted the same color as the car.
Oh, but if you do that, won't you lose that 10db I mentioned before?!? LOL
I'm all for displaying loyalty, but it does have its downsides. It usually is a giant billboard for thieves and punks. In your case though, it would seem to be beneficial advertisement for your Car Audio dealership.
The sticker on the window goes along with the foolish who throw an aftermarket exhaust can on a 4-cylinder, slap a decal of said aftermarket manufacturer on the window and suddenly think they can take on any V8 car on the road. A sticker means very little, unless it is the inspection sticker on your windshield... or at least that's what I keep telling the cops every time they pull me over in my Camaro. "I swear, officer. I promise you it is street legal and has passed inspection, I just forgot to put the sticker on the window. I know how important it is."
"Please don't give me that ticket!"
I'm all for displaying loyalty, but it does have its downsides. It usually is a giant billboard for thieves and punks. In your case though, it would seem to be beneficial advertisement for your Car Audio dealership.
The sticker on the window goes along with the foolish who throw an aftermarket exhaust can on a 4-cylinder, slap a decal of said aftermarket manufacturer on the window and suddenly think they can take on any V8 car on the road. A sticker means very little, unless it is the inspection sticker on your windshield... or at least that's what I keep telling the cops every time they pull me over in my Camaro. "I swear, officer. I promise you it is street legal and has passed inspection, I just forgot to put the sticker on the window. I know how important it is."
Originally Posted by KingOfAllCarAudio
I would advise not to use the JL Audio amplifier. Because of the R.I.P.S. power supply section, ANYTHING below the 1.5 ohm minimum will cause the amplifier to go into one of its five protection modes and shut down. Instead, I would wire the woofers into 8 ohm impedance and parallel all three into a final 2.66 ohm impedance. Using a solid 500 watt amplifier will do the trick. In this scenario, a JL Audio 500/1 will do just fine. You might get a little head light flicker, don't buy a capacitor to remedy this. You will be disappointed in the money you wasted trying to do so. So, what to do? Go with the JL Audio A1800. This is a non regulated power supply amplifier, it cost the same as the 500/1 and will not destroy you alternator. Each woofer will get around 250 watts each and assuming your enclosure is built properly, will sound incredible!
in all honesty 1 12 will do fine in these cars unless your really wanting the people 3 blocks away to hear you.......... ME??? i like quality not quantity and as i said my one 12W6 will be the deaf of me i promise you that!!!
ya i wanted to do a mdf/fiberglass box but i think im jus gana use mdf and make it look like fiberglass.. maby a thin layer of bondo and paint?? ... wacha think?.. oh and my subs and stuff r gana b here tomorow...cant wate!!!






